Beli

was this it? http://www.scottcrewcandlesupply.com/store/agora.cgi?page=Projects/PieCandle.html&hdr=projects

Cool. Glad the tequinque worked for you.. I may have to try this this weekend when I have more time and see what I can come up with.. I'll post the results if I do.

For cantainers try pooring at different temps.. when the first layer still has a thin skin etc. this is how I do it maybe this video might help give you ideas http://www.ehow.com/video_12221944_marble-colored-candles.html Obviously you don't want to use crayons to color your candle.

I'd be requesting some of my shipping money back... Amazon uses Endicia sometimes, and I can always track the package via Amazon, but I've never had it take 9 days for it to get to me. If I"m paying something to be sent via USPS Priority mail, that's what I expect it to be shipped by.

Right.. I think they are(CSN's).. but I have to do some double checking, however Eco candles are available Bittercreek (they might have them in their TX store.. I know they have different sizes here in their WI store) I believe Candlewic also sells them as well(Eco's) As well as 464 I think, those are the two that I know, I'm sure there's a couple more but the names are escaping me at the moment. However, Candlewic is in Pa.

Have you tried CSN"s? According to CS wick guide(Course this is just a guide): Golden Brands 464/3.5-4 Inch Diameter Best: CSN 262nd Best: ECO 16Acceptable: LX-30 Golden Brands 464/4+ Inch Diameter Best: ECO 10 Double Wicked2nd Best: LX-22 Double WickedAcceptable: CSN 14 Double Wicked

Never heard of a wax that's both for pillars and containers.. not that it doesn't exist just never heard of one. How does the wax feel? Usually veggie wax is softer then pillar wax.

You need a wax specific for container candles. Palm Feather pillar wax isn't. It's a much harder wax then container wax. Anyone who tells you that you can use Pillar wax for container candles I would not purchase from again. Container wax is softer generally speaking. However your palm pillar wax isn't useless you can make tarts out of them and use up the wax that way. If you want to stick with palm than I suggest purchasing Glass Glow Palm wax. It's specifically made for containers and is a palm wax.

Reputable suppliers, AHE, NG, Peaks etc (are my main suppliers) I do add beeswax to my candles with 464, and noticed that it does help. I only use about a tablespoon per lb of wax. I do not call them Vegan candles tho due to the added beeswax. If I up the FO anymore then that I end up getting seepage when burning like I said. I've already tried the centering tool.. wick pins err not wick pins.. wick holders sorry something similar to this Bitter creek had them years ago when I first started. http://www.peakcandle.com/products/Wick-Holder-Bars__A1023.aspx. However, I've also been using these lately http://www.peakcandle.com/products/SmallMedium-Wick-Centering-Tool__A1033.aspx. These work better for me then the centering tool to keep the wicks straight once in the jar. I'm using the right wick for the wax. I've tried CDN's, CD's and Eco's even according to CS wick guide Eco works better in 464, but no matter how much I up the FO load I get seepage even with the addition of beeswax, CO or Stearic. The hot throw is great.. it's cold throw that's a bit weak. Maybe next candle I make tonight/tomorrow will be with that to see if that helps with the centering on the bottom with the stickums. Like I said last time I tried them years ago, it came off when I poured.. could be I poured too hot.. it's been years since I tried it (Till earlier this afternoon)will have to try and find my notes. The reasons you mentioned are one of the reasons I won't use glue guns... I've tried that too in the past and yes, you will get a blister if it gets on your skin and can't get it off your glassware. If you would like to test one of my candles I can send ya one I'm not that way.. i'm always looking for a way to improve em

Nothing happens to them they don't move etc, it stays in place. As far as Wax it's 464 .5oz per lb of wax is a little over 3% well within the safety limits for that wax as I've previously said. I did try stickums again(just a bit ago), but the bottom looks uncentered to me, but at least this time the wick stayed in place.

Its secured with wax. Wick stick-ums nor hot glue work for me. Wick stick-ums just come off the glass when wax is poured. I've been making candles for 10+yrs and never had a problem this way, and I tested candles for 3-4yrs before that before even selling them.

I add my FO at around 170-180 as per CS suggestion on their website. I don't wait to pour, I usually poor enough to secure the wick that's held up by the wick pin & then let let the wax cool a bit till cloudy, stir again and then poor once I've secured the wick. By this time the wax has hardened enough to secure the wick. (I don't like glue guns or glue dots.. as I can't seem to center the wick that way) In the winter it's about 65ish generally speaking in the apartment. Where I'm burning same thing.. living room.. 65 it's a one level two bedroom apartment. And it's not just that one FO it's all of them I've tried, and from Reputable suppliers such as Ahe, NG etc. The oil droplets usually tend to cover the whole candle, tho sometimes it just around where it's burning depends on the FO. I also stir the FO for the full 2min (I time it with my stove timer) I haven't experimented with heating the jars yet tho either.

Pam, I don't... which is why I was going to try the C3 and see how good the cold throw is at my usual .5oz pp.

Yes, I've tried upping to 1oz pp. I seem to get a better cold throw, but I get terrible seepage when burning even after curing for almost a month. (Oil droplets when burning.. so the wick is too hot at 1oz pp). I haven't tried different wicks at 1oz pp though. I suppose I could try that. I've used both CDN's Cd's and Eco's in 464, and the Eco's tend to work really well for me. Also when upping to 1oz pp, some scents seem to be way too strong burning at 1oz pp. I'm not "switching" just yet.. I'm just playing around and testing. I will not switch again unless I know for sure the wax will be the right fit.

Alright... I read most of the previous threads on this wax (at least the ones I can find with the new search feature.. can't find any new posts.. 2010) At what percentage do I start adding 3%? I can't seem to find that info. I'm pretty happy with 464, which is the wax I currently use, but I love testing new waxes to see if I can find something better and I heard C3 has an incredable cold throw (something my 464 is lacking a bit in.. even with the stronger fragrances). So I brought 10lb of it to play with. I can't seem to go up more than .5oz per lb of wax without getting seepage when burning and that's with adding beeswax/stearic. And at .5oz per lb of wax, it gives an amazing hot throw so that's a plus.