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evaperconti

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  1. My DH and DS both love the Midsummer Night soaps and body washes. I also make shaving soap with that scent, with clay in it. DH loves it. I recently made a whipped foaming bath butter with clay for him to use for shaving and he's liking that too. And I've made an aftershave balm which he loves.
  2. I think you would be better off using lanolin (along with an emulsifier perhaps) in the rinse water like you would use fabric softener.
  3. I am not familiar with the product you are inquiring about, so I cannot speak to that. I did want to address your question regarding superfatting. If you make regular CP (coldprocess) soap, there is no way to specifically keep one of the oils used from being saponified. The lye will process any and all fat it encounters until it cannot saponify anymore. The amount of oil left over that the lye cannot saponify is referred to as the "superfat", but there is no way to insure that it will be a particular oil. If you do HP, or rebatch CP, you can add an oil after the "cook" and it is possible that it will not be saponified but will remain in its original state. It may cause your soap to be prone to rancidity, though, since it is an unprocessed oil. If you are concerned with the properties of the oil being changed by saponification, rest assured that the benefits of the oil remain even after that. However, since soap is a rinse-off product, very little of the oil will remain on your skin after use. If you want to maximize the benefit of a particular oil for long-term contact with the skin, use it in a leave on product such as lotion or cream rather than in soap.
  4. Sugaring is very popular in the middle East. It's been around since the pharoah's times! The reason it works a bit better than waxing is because the sugar sticks to the hair but not the skin, making it less likely to take off a layer of skin when you rip. Nad's is a similar product.
  5. Pale to medium green, it's a herbal type scent so green is a good choice.
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