Ernie

Well I tried pretty much every kind of wax I have here and everyone got sink hole in the 16oz mason. Yah outside is cooling too fast, oh well.  Im not going to wrap or put boxes on these, its just too much work if you have a lot to pour. Im ok with a dbl pour since I mostly use dbl pour paraffin anyways.

17 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

Is that little hanging bit on the top center attached to the wick holder? It’s hard to see on my small screen. 

the wick holding device may be altering how the larger mass of wax cools just enough to cause new issues. 

Hanging bit? You talking about the small black circle where the wick is attached?  I have always used this wick holders from aztec, but only with the mason jar have I had this problem.

Ok, I just discovered something. I also poured a 6046 in the same 16 oz mason jar and it did exactly the same thing. Jars were both heated in oven, house temp right now is 76.  Didn't get any of the sink holes in an 8 oz jar, only the 16oz.

Here is what I just poured Ceda Serica

I recently purchased the Calwax version of this and for me I have to do a double pour. It sinks really bad in a 16oz mason jar. Seems like 6046 is a better wax than this supposed luxury wax.

1 hour ago, TallTayl said:

From a super quick search I looks to be manufactured by NuCera. (https://www.nucerasolutions.com/candles). maybe they have an offset or solution? Possibly clarus wax has a similar offset product in their PolyBoost product line? 
 

“Vybar™ 343 polymer

Technical Datasheet | Supplied by NuCera Solutions

Vybar™ 343 polymer by NuCera Solutions is a hyperbranched polymer. It is distinctive and depends largely on the amount and length of branching. It is typically harder than other polymers or waxes of similar melting points. Enhances the hardness of soft waxes and possesses mold release for polyurethane foam. Has formulation flexibility, enhanced solubility in solvents, pour point depressant, lower congeal point and modify cool rate. It is crystal modifier and offers oil binding, opacification, increase hardness, solubility as well as control melt point. It is insoluble (18% EVA.

 

 

The alternative I found was what you said Polyboost or bypol x. Don't matter now, I am just using stearic instead and it seems to be the ticket. I guess no one is buying 343 anymore so they stopped selling it, at least that is what Aztec told me. You would think since they still sell mottling wax and multipurpose wax that they would still carry it.

4 minutes ago, bfroberts said:

I’ve tried all of them. I can’t advise you on getting a smooth finish. I have not tried, but I have found no need to use any additives to get mottles. 1230, 1286, etc will mottle beautifully with FO only as long as you heat your jars and cool very slowly. 1230 needs vybar to help with seepage but I don’t use it at all in other mottling waxes.

If you look at the pics of the orange candles, you can see the color and scent oil bled out. It needed the stearic acid to stop it and allow 6% fo. And as far as vybar 343 which is the one for mottling wax, I am finding out that it was discontinued and no one sells it anymore. I have a whole bag of it here and used it on one candle not shown and it worked great, with a slightly different mottle, but no sense in using it anymore if I can't get it. As far as the smooth finish goes, I need soft microcrystaline wax for better jar adhesion and smoother tops, but it seems everyone that carries it only sell the higher melt point. I just cant win

Ok got bored today so i figured out what seems to be the 1286 mottling formula using multi purpose wax for anyone interested. 6.25% stearic per pound of wax. Lol so simple. First pic is all the testers I made to get the finish result which is teal colored one that still isnt finished mottling yet. 

I know this is an old thread, but just realized while searching around that no one carries vybar 343. Does anyone know a company that carries it? I thought I purchased what I have at Aztec but I dont see it there or any other candle place.

Just got a a slab of this wax to try out as an alternative to igi 1286 and have been doing some experimenting with it. So far I like the mottling look of this multi purpose wax better than the 1286. I tried to pour one with vybar 260 to see if I could get something similar to the look of 4786 but it just gets a mat finish. Does anyone know what will give this wax a smooth finish because vybar isn't doing it? Also, is there an additive that will give better glass adhesion for a mottling wax that won't disturb the mottling?

Ok Erron, got some good news maybe   I ordered some igi 1230 just to try out, and turns out it is the mottling wax that I was originally looking for when I first purchased the 1286. Its not so perfect of a mottle as the 1286 which I actually like better since it shows abnormal patters depending on how the fragrance oil settles in the wax, and its also more transparent.  Its a base wax that wasn't specially formulated to mottle like 1286, so you can do what you want to it. I tried additives before with the 1286 and it never looked right. Well maybe you tried it already maybe not, but anyways thats where Im at right now.

I poured 2 candles so far, 1 with 6% and 1@10% FO. I read that it mottles at 10%, but so far 6% did it with lots of seepage. Gonna try some 343 and 260 vybar and some stearin to see what happens.

Here is the reply

to me

 

 

##- Please type your reply above this line -##

Your request (78499) has been updated. To add additional comments, reply to this email.

Customer Service (Aztec Candle and Soap Making Supplies) Nov 21, 2022, 11:53 AM EST Hi Ernie,   We have not had any complaints/issues with the performance of 1286. It is actually one of our top-selling waxes.   Thanks, Camilla  Customer Service Team

45 minutes ago, ErronB said:

I bought it from Aztec, the last 5 IGI waxes I’ve bought from there have all been crap, same with the 6006 from the flaming candle too. I did do one with stearic as well and it made no difference. Tested using HTP / LX / Aroma- lite wicks. I won’t use zinc because they don’t self trim. 

Well I just sent Aztec an email asking them if anyone else has complained about that wax or any other IGI wax since I need to order soon. Ill let you know what they tell me as soon as they get back to me.

32 minutes ago, ErronB said:

I did pour some more and the fragrance was not binding properly at 6%, it was starting to pool at the top of the candles. I guess it can’t even handle 6% even when added at 200f. I gave up after that, I lit them after I cleaned them up and there was practically no hot throw. 

Are you adding additives, and where did you purchase it from, and what wick? I am doing some apothecary jar testing with what I have and I added Vybar 343 and I noticed not as strong a hot throw than without it. Using Zinc wicks single and double.  And also, that wax only holds 5% fo. Try 3 tbs stearic and see if that helps. Like I said Im going to try out the igi 1230 which also mottles to see how it compares. 

On 10/14/2022 at 12:40 PM, ErronB said:

I have some 1286 and it doesn’t throw at all, and 4627 is not the same anymore, I won’t use IGI wax again. They keep selling blatantly crap lots and it’s hurting chandlers.

You said you were going to pour some more tests with the 1286. Did you get any better results or do you think it was still a bad batch of wax? I just ordered a slab of igi 1230 to try out, do you have any experience with that wax? If so, how much FO does it need to mottle?

On 10/14/2022 at 12:40 PM, ErronB said:

I have some 1286 and it doesn’t throw at all, and 4627 is not the same anymore, I won’t use IGI wax again. They keep selling blatantly crap lots and it’s hurting chandlers.

You said you were going to pour some more tests with the 1286. Did you get any better results or do you think it was still a bad batch of wax? I just ordered a slab of igi 1230 to try out, do you have any experience with that wax? If so, how much FO does it need to mottle?

On 10/14/2022 at 12:40 PM, ErronB said:

I have some 1286 and it doesn’t throw at all, and 4627 is not the same anymore, I won’t use IGI wax again. They keep selling blatantly crap lots and it’s hurting chandlers.

You said you were going to pour some more tests with the 1286. Did you get any better results or do you think it was still a bad batch of wax? I just ordered a slab of igi 1230 to try out, do you have any experience with that wax? If so, how much FO does it need to mottle?

I don't have any Premier wicks unfortunately but I did get the Eco 6 to work. Now I know that Eco wicks can't be used in this wax above a size 6.Also a CD 10 worked good. It burned off the discoloration and gave a great hot throw. I have one more to test that I added Beeswax to. So far it shrunk completely away from the jar. I don't really want to do blends with the Beeswax just because of the cost, but I gotta say, the BW added to it really improved the way it looks. Gonna try it with a wood wick in about a week.

On 7/14/2022 at 7:03 AM, TallTayl said:

I bought a couple of lbs of BW 917 / coco extreme and about to embark on trialing for 8oz tins and 9oz jars. 

 

first impressions in bag - pastilles are lovely to work with.  Nice and firm, no smearing like other coconut waxes.
 

Made a quick status jar to get the ball rolling.  it was a nice, pretty easy wax to melt and pour.  
 

1. Heat Coco Extreme to 170F
2. Add scent and color (skipped for baseline)
3. Stir well
4. Pour between 140 - 160F (poured at 150)

 

Seems to have quite a lot of soy in it based on how it melts in the melter, and cools with a definite need to amend the top. I pour wickless for baseline tests, and it sank slightly, and cracked across the center of the top in a “c”. I chose to heat gun into the crevices and it cooled smooth without any further need to poke and fill. Will need to try pouring hotter and cooler in the next tests to see if either makes it a true single pour.
 

It cools and cures to a very firm surface, nice early glass adhesion. After a few burns it began to pull away from the glass a bit, which may not be the case  with fragrance added. 
 

beautiful clean burn with a cd wick.  Zero carbon heading. Zero soot stack or puffing. VERY pretty flame that stayed steady, and proportionally wide as it was tall. Looking forward to see how it continues deeper into the jar. 

 

The color is to the ivory side of white.  In the jar it’s off-white enough to not look like paraffins.  Very opaque, creamy looking and dense feeling wax in the jar. the candle feels substantially hefty like a soy without the frosting and rough soy top.

 

the surface after burning is smooth and pleasant to look at. I need to add the standard fragrance I use for testing then burn again to discover the CT and HT potential. 
 

the 110 melt point makes me want to do a few extra summer shipping tests, and porch tests to ensure it will hold up well in craft show and summer shipping scenarios. 
 

I’ve not used Blended Waxes products in the past. So far I like this product!

Have you messed around with this wax anymore? Any additives or blending to improve on it?

So far using a 9oz status jar with Ceda Serica using an eco 8 I get mushroom and discolored wax with no additives. The mushroom formed on the last hour of burn. With 10% stearic acid same wick I get a super tiny mushroom on the frayed parts of the wick. Scent throw in both have been pretty equal and stronger than I expected for an 8 day cure. Visually they both pulled away from the jar. Thinking frosted or painted jars will look better. Gonna try an eco 6, it just might be the ticket. Also a CD 10 worked good with this wax.

On 8/14/2021 at 7:30 PM, burnsv1 said:

Has anyone here purchased candle jars from overseas via Alibaba? If you have, what’s the good, the bad and the ugly please?  I know it’s always best to buy USA made but the particular jar I want has no USA suppliers that I can find. Thanks

Just find whichever jar you want and talk directly with the manufacture. You will get broken jars but thats just the nature of ordering glass. All the big candle wax suppliers buy them from Alibaba. I found the exact jars Makesy sells and they are only 50 cents each then they mark them up to $6 lol. I have also seen all the Valuspa jars there. Only downside is you have to purchase 500-1000 at a time. They want your business for a long time, so just talk with them and work out a deal. I have ordered a lot of my fishing gear ( not cheap gear) from China and Japan and haven't had a bad experience yet.

Anyone using any of these in their coconut blends to harden the wax? Just got first box of Ceda Serica to experiment with. I used to use Beeswax in Coco 83 and seemed pretty good. In the Ceda Serica even with a  small amount and poured at 140 it still pulls away from the jar really bad, but the look of the wax I love. Stearic on the other hand 3-10% doesn't pull away at all. Was kind of surprised since it is used in pillars for mold release, but it doesn't give that same look you get from the Beeswax that I like. It is however making wicking much easier.

On 8/12/2017 at 6:36 PM, TallTayl said:

Stearic acid tends to really harden the wax and raise the melt point.  I've been testing palm stearic in soy container candles for a year or so now. Too much tends to inhibit ht in my waxes. 

How much was too much when you noticed a decrease in hot throw? I have a few different ratios poured but gotta wait for them to cure so I can test hot throw.

Is that the Bayberry wax? Why that instead of Beeswax, what is the difference? I like those candle holders.

Wow thats crazy. Glad I asked before purchasing some.