joym

I buy all my containers and lids from Infinity - and have found them to be extremely reliable.

If you're looking for wax only, try Hampel Oil in Wichita.

For glassware, Infinity Packaging in Lenexa.

I just mix everything in my Presto pot - that way can keep temperature up to where I want it. Also, if I need to do a repour, I leave some wax in the Presto and then reheat it to the temperature I need.

Thanks for the info - if your brain thaws out and you think of more, please let us know.

Thanks - good information.

I use the reddig-glo pale pink chips - can get very light pink to deeper pink, depending on the number added.

For the 4627, maybe try votives, tarts or t-lites. On the others, maybe mix and use up for "wickless" containers (tins or glass)?

Edited to add: Sorry, got mixed up on the numbers; 4627 will not work for votives or tarts.

Finally got over the fear of lye and made CP soap (without fragrance) for the first time.

Now want to try making some with fragrance -- My question is: if I cure the soap in the same room where I make candles, will it pick up all the fragrances from the candlemaking?

Thanks.

Some other ideas - add vybar & scent (I use about 1 tsp/#of vybar & 6-7% fo)

fire starters

dipped pine cones

water candles

chubs (short, fat double-string tapers, meant for display, not burning)

How do you all package your tarts? I have been shrinkwrapping individually. But, I think this is taking so much time that the profit margin is really low,especially for wholesale accounts. I wholesale for $ .75 each, retail for $1.25 or 5 for $5.

I bought some of the clamshells, but haven't tried to sell these yet. Do you have better luck wholesaling these?

Thanks for any words of advice.

UV inhibitor, unless it has debris in it, should melt completely and not leave

"floaties." I find that parafin wax does have dirt in it, so need to filter it before pouring a candle. We need to clean our melter periodically - might check the bottom of your melter to see if there's a build up.

I mix the UV, dye, fragrance and any other additives I'm using directly into the wax in the Presto pot, and have done so for more than 10 years without any problems.

After you have made the candle, hold the end of the wick and twist. It will curl down on itself.

A little cabin in the woods sound great!!

Don't know if this will help --but try to filter your liquid wax before you pour into your molds or jars. I use the fine mesh paint strainers from Sherwin-Williams- they catch the tiny pieces of dye (from chips) and the bits of paper & dirt that seem to always be there in parafin wax.

Have had some luck with "goo gone"; also "dissolve-it". Put a small amount on white paper towel and dab at the stain. Keep moving the towel as the dye is picked up.

Alabaster also sells them.

Don't know if they have a location near you, but I use Associated Bags for everything I can't easily scavenge. I also use them for my polypropylene bags - usually get product within 2 working days of ordering & I don't have to run all around gathering everything up!

One of the best things I have in my shop are the wire metal shelving units on wheels - they can be rolled around to make different configurations. (got them at Sam's Club) - Have been in the shop 5 years now & find my needs have changed as I've added/deleted products, so anything flexible in best for the long run.

Another thought - if you're going to have customers in the shop, you may want to set aside a small display space - hopefully in an area where they can't see all the "workings"

I keep my fo's in metal cabinets - protects them from light, and keeps the fire department happier.

As far as water heater, my 5 gallon has been more than sufficient.

I usually buy from Speciality Bottle - think they're in Seattle. As stated above, you do have to be careful about the kind of sprayers, closures, etc. because a straight fragrance oil will destroy some plastics & rubber. I usually use a lid (I think it's the phenolic) and add a dropper, so that the dropper doesn't come in contact with the oil until after it's sold. I know a lot of companies sell the bottle with the sprayer, but I'm leary of this because of the damage fo can do to furniture & there's limited control to the spray pattern.

see if they will let you put a few at the check-out - also would be helpful if they would burn one near the check-out (or put one on a warmer).

re selling rosehips - I'm country/primitive, I don't generally package them

- peeps think they're getting a real bargain when they can fill the cup to overflowing! (not knowing I already take that into account when pricing). I do have the bottles of refresher available; not a hugh moneymaker, but easy to do and good "customer service" for those that want them.

Lots of great ideas here - good luck narrowing them down to the best for your store.

I never add anything to the wax either - but do find different waxes perform differently when whipped. Are you using the same wax as before? The lower melt-point waxes give a "creamier" result, IMHO.

Rosehip potpourri sells very well for me & you can make it with the fragrance oils you use for the candles so the initial investment is not much. BCN sells a pre-mixed one without scent, if you want to try a small amount to get started. I buy rosehips in bulk from Lebermuth and mix in cinnamon sticks, etc. to get the best pricing.

Another item, not so far mentioned, are crocheted doilies - I buy from TSE. The 6, 8, & 10 inch are my best sellers - I display them under the pillars and candles in tins.

Just another thought - in case you're not selling tins to go under your pillars - some of the ones from Colonial Tin have sold very well for me.

Personally, I love it when there is help to carry in and carry out all those heavy boxes of candles.

Nice to have a coffee cart brought around before the first morning, when we're adding those last minute touches to our booths.

Also, one of the promoters I use always does a small "goodie" bag for the vendors - a small notepad, pen, 2 or 3 miniature candy bars, tax chart, application for the next show, etc.

It helps to warm the taper you are dipping before overdipping. Usually, I put it in wax at about 150-155* for a count of 30.