After using the wax for the day, I carefully took the vats out of my (2) 55-gallon drum boilers and poured them into large - disposable, but heavy gauge aluminum foil roasting pan. The link I'm providing here is NOT what I used. But is similar to the disposable aluminum pans that I used. They were inexpensive. http://tinyurl.com/mponq Mine was quite large and when I poured, I filled them about 1/2 - 2/3rds way up so that when it became time to break the wax, it was not hard at all. I didn't always pre-melt the wax. I normally placed the wax slabs in a box large enough, and took a hammer to break them up. I then placed the chunks into the vats. Which I then placed into my melting tanks. However, there were times that I used a double boiler and melted some additional chunks in a pouring pot I purchased from either Pourette or the (no-longer in business) Barkers. Both were located in Washington State. I then poured the hot wax into the vats that contained the chunks to help melt them. If your going to use your stove, which I do not recommend, I would advise you to place something like this at the bottom. http://tinyurl.com/mjc3x It adds extra protection from the direct heat of the bottom of your pot. Water is allowed to circulate and keep the vat below the boiling point. You never want your wax above 180 (my opinion) And if your melting it for carving, no higher than about 8 - 10 degrees above the melting point. (But I haven't carved in 10 years.) If your wax is too warm past that point, you will re-melt off your wax layers you just added. My system comprised of (2) 55-gallon drums that previously carried Non-hazardous liquid chemicals. I believe in my case, they had once carried corn syrup. There was a metal grate that I made, from slotted angle irons that I purchased from the "Home Depot." hardware store. I used the heating coils used in Hot-water tanks to make the hot water. I used a 220volt line. A 120 can also be used, but it takes longer to heat up. I used standard electrical (and electrically grounded) on/off switch system similar to a light switch on a wall. I used a Thermal Cut-Off switch rated to 165 degrees. Therefore I could heat the water to at least 160. If it got hotter, it would automatically shut-off. I also insulated the tanks to help keep them warm. Kind of like a blanket, but was made with Insulation that had a thin white plastic sheet on the outside, so that the fiberglass stayed on the inside. I also installed a (outside type) brass faucet for draining the tanks when needed. Each tank held (6) color vats with clear non-colored wax in the middle. I'm in the process of adding construction plans/parts list in the booklet I have available at my website. http://tinyurl.com/nph6h TinyUrl is not my website. But is a process by which anyone can place long URL Links into emails to make it easy for people to use. My actual website is http://www.robertfrase.com Let me know if you have any other questions I may answer. Sincerely, Robert