Vicy

Update- as suggested, I made a simple candle - no colours, mica or fragrance- let it cure for 2 weeks, and it burns perfectly! Its been going for 30 mins, wide burn pool and strong flame. So its definitely what I'm adding. Tomorrow I will do the same, but add fragrance and again leave for 2 weeks then test that. Slowly but surely I'm getting there! 

Thanks everyone x

Hi,

I've started making my own melt and pour soaps, and I love it. I can make quite large batches - I've given a few away to friends and get the 'wow you should sell these', but I know that in order to do this you need particular licenses etc.

I've been searching through this site and a lot of the advice is for the US, I'm wondering if there are any UK based sellers on here that could offer advice of where to even start and how to safely become a seller.

I don't want to become the next Lush, but I would like to be able to sell at stalls or to friends and family every so often when the stock gets too high!!

Vicy

I was just getting feedback that my essential oils soaps didnt smell that strong, so thats why I wondered about FO - although I was really aiming for all of my homemade soaps to have skin benefits and be as natural as possible.

Eugenol? Is it in many oils? I just read its in clove and cinnamon oils, but is it something hidden in loads of ingredients??

52 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

You will need to look at the IFRA certificate for every single aroma you put in your skin product, even essential oils. 
 

every single bottle, from every single supplier will be very different. 
 

essential oils are not inherently “safer” than fragrances. That is a BIG tale spun by MLM 

Thank you! Is the IFRA usually stated on the product? Or is there a website? 

Hi all, 

I've been making M&P soaps for a few weeks, but only using essential oils in them (I like researching which ones have benefits for skin) but the scent is very weak. For 6 standard soap bars I use around 30-40 drops. Feedback from friends is that the smell is quite weak. 

For some reason I just never thought of using fragrance oil in my soaps. I have a starter set that I've checked are ok for soap making, but for some reason I'm scared to use it. Does everyone use FO in soap, is it safe or is it harsh to skin? 

I just want a stronger scented soap! 

(I don't sell soap, I just like it as a hobby and often give as gifts)

4 hours ago, Shari said:

They won't spoil but they could become damp if moisture gets in the container.  MP generally needs to be wrapped. I've put CP soap in muslin with no issues but MP draws more moisture. 

How would you wrap? Just with clingfilm? 

1 hour ago, Chronic_Sniffer said:

I have soaps I made over 10 years ago, then got out of the business for a while. I've opened a few up, and found no loss of scent. Somehow, fragrances seem to hold up better when they are put into a product (I also have 10 year old candles that are mostly the same way - a few have lost some scent, but most are still good - but again, they've been "sealed" in a container with a lid).

 

My only issue, like Shari said, is if the packaging somehow got loose and let in some air, then there is a 'crust' across the soap surface where the air sat

 

I would suggest just taking 1 sample of each fragrance and try it out first, before selling them, but I don't think you'll have a problem.

Technically the soaps are purely in a muslin bag, not shrinkwrapped. The container i would not say is 100% airtight, its a standard plastic storage box. I'm not selling them, but I love making them and have a tendency to stockpile just to look at them and feel proud so I dont want to do that if they are just going to spoil, so I'm trying to judge when I should give them out! 😀

Hi, 

I've made various melt and pour soaps (shea butter base, aloe base, clear) with essential oils in them. Ive packaged them in little muslin drawstring bags and put in a plastic container in my spare room, which is moderately cool. 

How long will these keep in here? I dont know of I should just give them out now, will they dry up/go bad if left for too long? 

3 hours ago, bfroberts said:

Measure everything by weight, not volume.  Use 1 oz FO per 1 lb of wax.  Heat to 185, add FO at 185, stir 2 minutes, and then cool to your desired pour temp. Do NOT use mics for color. It may be clogging your wick.  Cure 2 weeks before burning.  I am not familiar with your wax, but Eco 14 is probably in the ballpark for a 3” diameter container.  Make a candle as suggested and it should burn much better.  Then you can fine tune your wicking as needed.

What do you think the ideal pour temp is? A leaflet with a gift set said 140, but online said 180 but both caused a slight collapse! The last try I warmed up my containers and glasses on the radiator so they weren't cold. 

42 minutes ago, kandlekrazy said:

I'd just like to add that because your teacups are beautiful and colorful, I would not dye the wax at all.  The creamy color would look great.  If you want to color soy in the clear jars, I would recommend using liquid dye made for candles.  It's by far the easiest to incorporate into wax.  The chips works as well but it takes some prep of the chip and lots of stirring or you end up with specks.

Good point. To be fair the colours never turn out as i hope they will so natural might be best! 

2 hours ago, Forrest said:

Vicy,

 

I know exactly how you feel, because I felt that way once. Then I found this board. I did a lot of searching, and I ask a lot of questions. What I found was that candle making is hard, and it takes time to learn. The internet is full of bad information, but there are a lot of helpful people on this board. The question I would ask you is why soy? I ask this because soy is much harder to learn on.

 

 I didn't realise soy was difficult! I went for it as it seemed a more natural product. Is there a better wax for beginners? 

Heres an image to help! 

Hi CaptnKush, 

1. 100% soy wax

2. Teaspoon of sandalwood fragrance oil per 200ml wax

3. Half a teaspoon of mica powder

4. Vintage teacups (washed and dried), metal 100ml containers and larger glass jars from candle supply store

5. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07XSH3KHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

6. A moderately warm kitchen (heatings on) 

7. 2 days

8. 160-180

Karen Ov- I am wondering about the wicks. The flame just burns right where the wax is and leaves the top half of the wick just charred.....

Thanks for your help guys....

Hi, 

I've started making candles with soy wax and whatever I do they do not work! 

Not only are they getting serious sinkage, but when I light then the flame is tiny then dies, and the flame tunnels. 

I've read a lot of material and done everything it says - dont cut the wick too short, pour at 140-160, dont set in a freezing room- but it is still happening. 

Am I missing something? Im only using standard wicks, and 150ml containers and teacups? 

Kind regards

Vicy