funnygirl

Love em! These are something I have toyed around with in my mind forever, but have never actually got around to making. I really like the brown toned one

Also, how long does it take you to get this deep of a melt pool?

This is exactly the reason I switched to a blend. Even when I could get them to look decent, change in temp would render them ugly once more

Very pretty! Love the texture on the Blue Sugar.

A lot of people add a little beeswax to their soy to help with frosting and smoother tops. Just do a search here and you can find out more about the percentages people use successfully.

I use 10 drops of burgundy with 5 drops of orange pp. This gives me a deep cranberry red, and the orange offsets the pinky/purple color in the burgandy. HTH! BTW, I use Shades liquid dyes from BCN.

I add a little soy votive wax to my palm to assist in throw, both hot and cold. It makes a HUGE difference! I use 1 oz. soy votive pp of palm wax. It doesn't affect the look of the palm crystals at all. HTH!

I tried the 70/30 in the Crisa jars, they are around 2.5" and a CD 10 worked well on most scents, had to go to a CD 12 on my heavier/vanilla scents. HTH!

Beanpole Candles

Made with 100% mostly soy wax

Featuring our patent-pending Tempatantrum technology!

:laugh2::laugh2:

I love that. 100% Mostly soy............. and Tempatantrum technology. I use that technology every time I mess with pure soy! I was unaware it was trademarked, LOL!

In my 4" double wicked with EcoSoya Adv I used 2 LX 18's and they were perfect. In my 3" single wicked jar an LX 20 was perfect. I haven't used tin's before, so I can help there, but this should give you something to chew on, LOL! As far as throw, Im not getting much with any combo in this wax. I think I am just spoiled to my 70/30 soy blend, LOL!

How are those wicks burning? Do they seem underwicked at this time? I ask, because I use those jars, and in order to properly wick them, they will seem underwicked at the large part of the jar, but they catch up fast as the jar begins to narrow again. Let us know.

Palm wax Container Fill????? I'm assuming this is container wax and your putting it in molds? That would be a big problem. But maybe I am just misunderstanding and you are using a pillar palm. 1st, aluminum molds are what you want to use with this type wax, not polycarbonate. To help with release, I add 2 tbs palm steric pp of wax. Some people use less, but that works for me and I get beautiful pillars. I never have to put them in the freezer, but they do have to be completely cool. HTH!

I just sliced off what I needed, bag and all, that way I didnt have to actually touch the wax. Then when I got it to the presto, I would just peel the bag off the edges and let it plop in, LOL!

Hmmm..... I did have someone give me a tin one time and the label did get burned. I mean, it didn't burst in to flames or anything, but it turned dark with burned edges. It was brown kraft. But, I've certainly never seen it on a glass container. You would think the entire candle would burst into flames/glass most likely shatter long before the label would burn.

This soap actually claims to "wake you up"? I have seen caffeine used in different body products, but usually it is seen in cellulite removal creams and such. Hmmmm.....

It's going to depend on your wax, where they are being burned, the type of container, summer, winter.....LOL. The parasoy blend I use gives me an average of 7 - 8 hours burn per oz. HTH!

I would definitely post this in the classified section if I were you with the subject line being "IDSO Sweet Patch & Maui Baby from Bluegrass". You will have a much better chance of getting a reply in that section. By the way, IDSO means "In desperate search of". HTH!

I have used the PB exclusively for my votives for the last 2 years. It is very hard compared to other soy waxes I have tried, and the only time I have a hard time removing the pins is if it is really warm in my shop - 85+. I usually just give the bottom of the wick pin a whack or 2 on my table and then they pop right out. Now, I haven't tried V-1, so it may be soft compared to it. Beeswax will harden it more, but I think I would only start with 1/4 oz. BW to 1 lb. PB. (1.5%) as the wax might crack at 3%. But then again, maybe not. Oh the joys of testing. LOL! Good luck to you!

Ive tried the all, and I prefer the LX series. But, I will say that most all of my containers are double wicked, and the LX's give me a super clean burn with this wax. The ECO's burn a bit hotter than other wicks, and I have had difficulty double wicking with them HTH!

Well, Greenleaf has some super nice soap bases too! I really like their GM base and their shaving soap base. HTH!

Thats my favorite one too!

Well, Im on the other side of the fence. I havent tried KY, but I LOVE GL's 70/30. When I am looking at a couple of different waxes, I like to get a sample of each and try them out for myself. I also like to look at pricing and shipping costs. I can say that the 70/30 has awesome cold/hot throw. It's not like my pure soy, as pretty much everything throws in it, and 24 hrs is all the cure time I need. There is NO frosting, and it colors great. Good luck!

I have noticed this discoloration on some of my palm containers as well. Here is the conclusion I have come to. Because the palm is so hard, it seems to need a larger wick in order for the wax to be consumed before it begins to scortch. All though I may very well have had a good melt pool, if the wicks werent hot enough to consume the wax in a fast enough time frame, the wax just seemed to scorch and discolor. Wicking up solved that problem for me. I saw you photos in the gallery, and that is exactly what my candles looked like before I wicked up. I am also a fan of double wicking the palm containers.

BTW, I first noticed how badly palm wax can scorch/discolor when I poured some excess wax into my tart molds. After just a few hours in the warmer, the palm discolors/scorches. Thats when I realized that hot palm wax will scorch/discolor after a few hours if it isnt being consumed. Hope this makes sence to you, LOL! Let us know how it turns out.

As far as wax sticking to the pot, I scrape as much as I can off the walls/bottom. Then I hit the sides/walls with my heat gun just enough to melt it off. I then stir it really good to get everything blended back together. No wasted wax. Also, I had none that lost any frost. None of them had any (except for a little on the top of the 415/BW one from the heat gun), except for the one with USA and it is so badly frosted. The entire sides of the jar all the way around are frosted from top to bottom. The plain one and the BW one look great! I really believe that pour temp is crucial in eliminating frost with the 415 wax. Of course, it does come back after you burn it, but the BW added to it does tend to help the tops remain smooth and drastically reduces frosting after burning. Hope this info helps someone out. It was a fun little experiment

Woke up this morning to find a frost free plain 415 jar, a frost free 415/BW jar, and a terribly frosty 415/USA candle. It is U-G-L-Y! Go figure. :rolleyes2