MeAndMyPuppyDog

Pulling them now... will let you know. Right now it looks like the ones on the perimeter of the bench are too bubbled... the others look ok... I'll do a quick look and see what is usable...

Why did I do it @ 170? I'm getting too old.

After 20 years doing this... I just did the dumbest thing.

Let's take bets as to the outcome.

Wax: 140F MP Straight Paraffin

Additives: Vybar & Stearic Acid

Ambient temp in room: 75F (approx.)

get ready here's the killer. Poured into alum. metal molds with wax at only 170F +/-

---

Edit:

We're talking about 3x9 aluminum metal molds, racked side by side, with 1" between each row....

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx< side by side, touching

-----------------------------------------------<1" between each row

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx< side by side, touching

---

I usually pour @ 208-210F

So... what do you think the outcome will be? I'm voting for "rustic" (read: ruined) tops since the mold will never heat enough to get a smooth finish...

Let's here you guys call it...

What do you think the outcome will be?

P.S. can you tell how pee'ed off I am that I drew a picture!

The blade I'm running is a 40 tooth... the one that came with the saws... I'm going to go and get the one you have and see the difference... It would make sense that you end up with finer granular and thus easier clean-up... The bigger pieces that my blade produces get squished and hence make a bigger problem...

I'll try anything at this point!

Thanks!!

I use a saw also if you keep a scrapper beside the saw and do a quick scrap on the saw in between pillars you have a lot less clean up time on them. No matter what it still fast and more accurate than the leveling on a hot plate or gridle.

My Hubby is getting upset I now have better toys than he does.

Yeah, thank Vicky -- that is pretty much what we do now...

Have you ever thought about a different blade (tooth, etc.) -- what blade do you se now?

Have you ever thought about going with a different kind of saw... say like, a band saw or something?

I would kill for a way to save this step -- or at least make it easier...

Right now we use a saw like this:

to level the bottoms of our pillar candles. This works great as far as making a very level candle, and it is quick. The major problem is the cleaning of the candle. The cut bits and pieces get stuck to the candle so each candle has to be wiped clean. We're talking a lot of candle and I would love to be able to save a step...

What are some ideas you might have?

Thanks!

Nope, but I would think it is over.

I'm having a 70 Gallon food-grade stainless steel water jacketed fabricated. The bear to it all is the 4500W of power I have to locate!

I can't believe it has come to this -- but it is either grow or stay the same.

For the tank or the gun?

Too expensive for me. I'll stick with water jacketed...

Right now I'm looking at a pretty big one... 75 Gal. -- problem is I'm considering going with the heated hand-gun dispensing method, but straining the wax has got me in a fever...

Link with more info?

Yeah, spout is at bottom, and lots of pressure...

FYI, save your money and don't try coffee filters. The wax doesn't flow quickly enough.

Right now I'm on two layers of pantyhose and one layer of old t-shirt material...

I have yet to pull any of the molds... I'll update when done.

What a drag. Been a long time since crap like this happen.

Crap got in the vat... I don't know how... well I do, but it doesn't really matter -- it will NEVER happen again!

I'm going to try and hope the coffee filter idea works, I got some large ones, without the little holes...

Here is to hope!

Try an old T-shirt!

Cotton?

What about a coffee filter?

I'm fuming over this.

I'm so annoyed right now.

We have a batch of wax with sand in it... the double pantyhose material didn't catch it... so now I've got a bunch of white candles with black specs of sand in them.

I'm curious as to what folks use for the finest possible straining?

I would say they are done. There is nothing, except for the plastic two-piece molds that they had that couldn't be gotten elsewhere.

Sad really, they could have been huge. When the economy turns to crap (as it is, and will get worse) -- candle making gets more and more popular -- it is just the cyclical nature of our business (or hobby)...

Oh well...

Long sixty days, huh gang?

I thought I would hate the magnet. Turns out I use it as a way to turn the pot on and off... this way I know it isn't connected and I don't have to fiddle with the controller. I have 4 of them -- and as soon as I run a couple more power lines to that area I'll get 4 more... these things are great for tiny runs.

Jen, you got a bad one -- if the light is on and you stick your hand under the pot and feel no heat. -- Just check and make sure the "control" is all the way into the unit. (it pulls in and out.).

So we're still @ 60 days?

Good Gosh! This thread is still going?????? Look at Bullfrog Light. These are made the same way. It is no secret.

Geesh.

I think the design goes in not out. How could that be a veneer?

You could make the same thing with a dip and cut... just need to get crafty with the method you use to cut.

'Nuff from me.

Hints for Donita and everyone else.

Start with a flat pliable wax -- translucent.

Push stamp.

Think.

Veneer.

Happy Day to all.

I read the threads here and many I just run past... the reason? I don't understand all this talk about different waxes.

Let me explain.

I buy my wax based on two things: Price and Fully Refined Melt Point.

For example, for pillars I like a nice 140 For containers, 121... from there I add what is needed, petrolatum, vybar, etc... Lower melt points cost less than higher melt points...

When I see all these "names" and things with letters I get mind boggled... I have no idea what all this LX and 46-some-thing-or-other... I know IGI is a wax company that likes to charge insane prices to the candle trade... but aside from that, I don't know anything about them - nor care to.

Is there a post, link, or something that can explain all of this?

Thanks,

Pete

Donita,

Did you get a chance to use yours yet?

WOOOHOOO #1 worked.. thank you so much.

You're very welcome...

I'm so distraught.. we just ordered tons of blue cobalt glass from specialty glass and our dang stick tabs wont stick to the glass enough to allow us to pull and secure the wick onto a wickbar. just the slightest pull on the wick pulls the stick tab and wick right from the glass.

Any ideas on what I can do?

If the glass is solid (not painted) then the problem you're having is that there is oil on the surface of the glass. Some alcohol (rubbing) will take care of this.

If the glass is painted, and the PAINT is what is coming up... then I'll have to say I don't know.

My guess is #1.