MeAndMyPuppyDog

Wow! Thanks for all the replies!! I'm going to look at that box place now!

I have a bunch of questions about Bayberry Candles (the ones where people put the legend along with them and such).

Sort of like these:

http://www.buyacandle.com/shop_bayberrycandle.html

Questions:

Is it difficult to make taper candles that are bayberry scented?

What can you tell me about getting the box that these bayberry candles are in? Anyone know good sources for boxes like that?

Is there an "official" legend?

Any other ideas would be very helpful!

Thanks!

Thanks guys. I went the liquid route (for now) -- I've been "promised" that I can get more wax dyed with this liquid ounce for ounce than I can with powder. And it is about 1/2 the price that Pylam was...

We'll see.

I'm trying (testing) some new liquid that dollar per dollar on a pound by pound should go further than the Pylam powder and be more soluble.

We'll see... all I know is I'm DONE with Pylam. I spoke with them today and they are telling me that 2 oz (on average) of die does 90 lbs of wax. First of all, even if that was right, it is NOTHING Like how powder dye use to react. Now I'm being told that powdered stearic is being used to "cut" the dye, most likely.

Either way -- no more. And to add insult to injury they couldn't wait to get me off the phone. I do two different vats, one 150lb and one 450lb. Do the math. You could color it the same with Reddiglo (that was a joke) .

End of rant.

V- Who do you think makes it?

I'm looking for a place that sells and/or distributes powered dyes. I was buying from Pylam directly, but their dye just doesn't go as far as it did when Pourette was buying it from them.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Very talented!!

I'm going to assume that at these prices, each case has about 150lbs of wax, right?

If you use the links in Miss Mary's and Judy USMC posts you will find the laws. Here is a snippet from the National Candle site:

Federal law requires that consumer commodities like candles be labeled with the manufacturer's name and location, as well as basic product weight and measurement information.

In addition, candle industry standards call for cautionary labels on candles or their packaging to inform consumers of the basic rules of fire-safety. All NCA members place cautionary labels on their products, and usually supplement them with additional burning and use instructions. Always read and follow a candle's cautionary label and burning instructions before using a candle.

Bulk candles are sold around the country with no such label required. I'll have to look at the link.

I'm familiar with waterslide decals when wanting to use a decal on a candle... but I'm curious to know if anyone has a used a certain "regular" clear sticker or decal on a candle that is OK to let melt down with a candle. Say like on a 1.5" wide pillar candle or something of that nature?

What are your thought/ideas?

Thanks!

By law, you have to include a contact and/or company info somewhere on the candle you produce. Warning label is the typical spot it seems for wholesale/private label accounts.

By law? Do tell more.

maybe the giant soy bubble... is exploding...

:D

Curious to see how many here do custom color work, and if so what are the ways that you "test" the color before doing your pour?

All total bullcrap (since we used bullsh!t already.)

Here's a candle burning guide that puts it in a funny way:

http://www.buyacandle.com/shop_burningguide.html

Actaully, don, I really like your idea... you have/make these?

The are sharp at the top because they are made of stamped steel that isn't polished or grind smooth at the top. This makes them cost less.

I would like them more if they were made of stainless -- or best yet, non-stick that did not scratch/flake off.

That would make it easier when you do runs that aren't scented.

Can Candlewic was called Binder and their mom answered the phone...

Walnut hill in PA and now... the not-so old. Pourette...

18 Years. THANKS for making me feel old!

Specifically what plastic molds are you looking for, because you could already use your finished product to make a silicone mold, which really isn't totally stealing the plastic model is it? I mean plastic is two parts and your final product would be one part (we'd hope )

Or you could just sculpt something similar to be your dummy and pour the silicone over it, couldn't ya? And what's to say there isn't a silicone mold already out there in what you seek? Not sure if it's really cheaper to make your own or buy it so I just stay away from it lol.

There are times when some of their 2 piece plastics were good for small runs... I would have the customer pay for the mold, run it... cheap molds... silicon is more money... oh well... I'll keep going.

Somebody needs to go to school here.

1) Look at the molds. There is no ownership expressed or implied.

2) The designs are free of any ownership -- hence why you see many of them used by plaster and candy companies.

Time to climb down off your high-horse and be part of a solution, not part of the problem.

Geeze!

(I needed a nice way to say, "you have no idea what you are talking about" -- I hope I did a good job) )

I went away from using them long ago, but still have my stash of plastic molds. I don't have the time to play with them though.

Yeah, but if I could cast an original out of resin and then make silicone. I think you know where I'm goin' here, eh?

Let's face it. Some of those Pourette plastic molds were cheesy... but some of them were money-makers... what are folks doing now that they are gone?

Anyone have any lead on a few different sizes of a Chocolate Kiss mold?

Thanks!

Could have saved some, but the way they are in the rack, it would have been tough... easier to cool them quick, pull them, melt and re-do. All went fine.

Thanks guys!

OH well -- most were no good. I had about 40% that were perfect, but the others were a re-do.

Lesson learned. ALWAYS remember to take a temp. reading!!!

Thanks...