CaptnKush

Looks like igi 2281 starting to mottle. What wax is that?

Sounds like she got the same batch that I received where it sinks just like 4786. 😒

I suggest painting them yourself if its that important. I asked several companies that had lids I liked about getting them in black and what I was told is that its too expensive to paint the lids and keep the lids affordable to the consumer.

Wood wick with this wax will fix everything. When I was messing with the 83 I couldn't get any wick to work very good, even with beeswax added. I kept seeing other vendors at the markets using wood wicks with their coconut so I tried it with success.

Your topping off layer needs to be at least 10 degrees hotter than your original pour.

On 8/11/2020 at 6:34 PM, Japplegate said:

I have been trying to wick a status elite jar....just a tad bigger than 3”.....no luck. Care to share what wick you’d recommend for that jar?

I only tried that wax for a short time basically just samples so I never really got a right wick for that wax. I still have about 90 percent of the box just sitting here. You can try the wicks I listed above, thats all I can say. I only use Paraffin now. Paraffin = no headache

Great Thanks everyone. I think Adobe is doable for me, I am always using cad programs anyways, besides I see now you can pay 20 a month subscription for it instead of paying out the big cash for Adobe.

I came across these candles the other day and really liked the look of their labels. Does anyone know what software  was used to make something like this? We have been using Avery and are so limited on what you can do. Here is a pic

23 minutes ago, Pam W said:

I'm just guessing here but follow me for a moment:  I use concave molds so when I put the putty on the bottom of the mold prior to pouring, I don't take any measurements as to what the exact measurement of the wick is from the candle surface to the end of the final wick trim...I'm just guessing but I think the final length of the wick is ok and doesn't have any of the putty left on the tip of the wick......anyway, never had a problem :-)

Only problem I have with the putty is that I use only maybe 1/3 of the container before it dries up and becomes unusable.....oh well, I guess that means that I need to pour more pillers :-)

Yes thats a thing with plumbers putty it doesn't last the longest, but Hey its super cheap and don't need to go to a hobby store to get it :D You can add linseed oil to soften it up if you don't want to keep buying it.

On 7/15/2020 at 1:23 PM, StandleyHandcrafted said:

Just made my first batch with this wax and first impression are not great. 
Small sinkholes on top, larger sinkholes inside, tops cooled and looked like orange peels. 
Not a great hot throw after 3 days, waiting to test burn the other two at 7-8 days and 14 days. 

 

Oh bummer. Can you post some pics?

Dollar Tree has those jars but no lids.

https://woodenwick.com/wick-selection-guide

This will help you out a lot.

Heres what I do. For now I am just using Avery, but if I want a label to look like your label, I just copy a texture I like a paste it in as the background. I can make one look exactly like your sample if I find that texture.

On 6/23/2020 at 7:08 AM, TallTayl said:

Does it leave any residue on the wick? 

Same answer as Pam W Can't beat it. Plumbers putty is so cheap and easy to find at any Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, etc.

On 6/27/2020 at 2:35 PM, PINKT said:

 

the WW (Lab and Co) waxes are made by Calwax.. the Virgin coconut soy is their EC26 and the coco/apricot is their Ceda Serica. The new Aztec wax ( soy/coconut/bee) is in bead form.

Have you tried it yet and if so how is it?

On 6/25/2020 at 9:46 AM, StandleyHandcrafted said:

 

 

I currently use the 104 in the 9oz straight jar which works really well. The jelly jar works nicely but will get a touch hotter toward the bottom like you mentioned. I have never had one get crazy on me though even with abusive burn testing. 

The 83 does work but tends to get a little overworked near the top with some oils. 

 

What FO do you use with 6006? 

 

I would also agree, some people get very excited when they see me do something that looks easy not realizing that this takes a lot of time not shown on the video and heck, even using the same recipe can yield different results with so many other factors. It's a tough line to bounce between when doing these.

 

 

When I was using Soy, I used CS, Lone Star, Aztec and some others with it.  No particular preference, other than what smelled good to me. I have since stopped using Soy all together. Too much time waiting for it to cure and the number of wicks I had to go through with Soy that it isn't worth it to me. But the biggest problem I had with it was the inconsistency from each batch of wax, and you will read on this forum that it is a common problem. I do love the look of a Soy candle though,  I currently make my own blend using 2281, I also use 4786, and 4627. I still have Lab & Co and some Coco83 that I mess with as blenders when I get bored, but its Paraffin for me. You just can't beat how easy it is to wick, and the great Hot and Cold throw you get after a day.

But hey, Gratz on your video popularity, I think it was your videos that got my wife into the candle business and then I got hooked. Hope its giving you a lot of business.

On 6/19/2020 at 9:24 AM, StandleyHandcrafted said:

 

 

 

Did you post the wrong video? I don't wick anything in this one. 

What do you wick the jelly jar with when using this wax?

If you're referring to my how to make candles video you are correct. The HTP104 is the wrong wick for that jar, the 93 works much better. I would love to be able to edit that video. The wood wick, way off. 
I do not use either of those in the jars now and haven't for quite some time. I've made more current videos with better wicks. 

 OOOOPS!!!!!  Ahahah. Yes as a matter of fact I did post the wrong video. One of those days I guess   My bad, anyways as far as 93, to me that is still  too big for the small jars I saw you using  in one of your other 6006 video. I thought the jar you were using had a 2 1/2" opening at top and then tapered down slightly. The glass is going to be so hot when it gets down mid way. I just see lots of your followers getting excited thinking they can just copy what they see you making and start selling without knowing they need to test.

On 6/17/2020 at 4:41 PM, The Debra said:

Help for a newbie? I saw an archived post on this, but...I have a smaller pillar mold I've been using, and no matter what I've tried, the wax keeps leaking out! I've tried tape, metal tape, aluminum foil, wax sealer, nothing works. Am I pouring too hot? Should I try something else? Thank you!

Go to the Home Depot and get yourself some plumbers putty. Its real cheap and you get a ton of it.

On 2/27/2020 at 12:30 PM, Laura C said:

I know, I can easily carry on a conversation with just myself. LOL! 😆

https://giphy.com/gifs/5hqF2aynLEWvUvLFIr/html5

There is always a greater risk when you combine fire with glass. This is why you need to test your candles to make sure you don't have too hot of a wick, and that all your candle jars are made to be used for candles. Try to keep the glass temp at or below 140 degrees. I don't know about the glass or marble surface causing a problem since the bottom of your candle jar isn't going to be hot unless you are still burning your candle with hardly any wax left in jar, maybe someone else on here has experience with that and will chime in. Hope this helps.

Found this interesting.

I have some old 6046 candles that are doing the exact same same thing with only 6% FO. I don't have a clue why, so you arent alone.

On 5/7/2020 at 8:29 AM, TallTayl said:

I don’t want to be disrespectful. Just giving food for thought.
 

Kind of like the natural skin care folks that will not put anything on their skin that they wouldn’t eat. I love a good ghost pepper but there’s no way I’m wiping that in my armpits or anywhere else in my skin.

 

 

Oh come on. That would make a great Youtube video and possibly pay you a lot :D

22 hours ago, Peggy T said:

Hmmmm Aztec is relatively close to me. OK, it's not that close but I pass through KNoxville when I visit my daughter so if it's a good wax I could buy in bulk and pick up. Thanks for the tip.

Better call them first, because their website says they are closed for local pickups.

Im suspecting it might be the Lab & Co wax since its growing in popularity unless IGI made a new one and they seem to carry most of the IGI wax.