jguff330

3 hours ago, Flicker said:

I have used that wax for about 15 years and NEVER had anything remotely like that.

 

How much scent are you adding to what amount of wax? Also, how long are you burning each time?

16 oz wax and using 1 oz FO. around 4 hours average burn time probably. Happened at my house and 2 other peoples who used them.

My setup is a 16oz country comfort glass jar double wicked with zinc core 44-32-18, using 6006 wax with mostly candle science or natures garden FO.

I have noticed extreme sooting.  It's on my ceiling, walls, when I blow my nose I have soot in my nose.  I keep the wicks trimmed to 1/8-1/4" and if I go any smaller in wicks they don't stay lit.  It's so frustrating because now I'm sitting on about 100 candles that I don't want to burn or sell.  The jars themselves aren't getting sooted, it just ends up everywhere else.

I've used hazelnut coffee from candlescience and it has great hot and cold throw in 6006.

On 12/29/2017 at 4:53 AM, Trappeur said:

Wonderful job costing out your candles!  They look really great.  Wick placements look great too.  As far as the wet spots  go, should you get some, I wouldn't worry about it.  Your label is big enough you can cover any wet spots and your eyes are gravitated to the label and not to any wet spots.  They are just the nature of the beast, so if you get some, don't even worry about them.  The best candles on the market have them.  One little thing I noticed is it looks like you poured the red colored wax over the wick.  Me personally if you are going to do any selling of the candles I would leave the wicks natural with no overpour of the wax.  Just looks like a more finished candle.  Boy if you can drive to a supplier for stock, that is a plus....for sure.  The cost of your jar is pretty much a good price.  Everything looks just wonderful....Check out too Flaming for those jars and lids as they carry them.  If you order 4 or more cases of course the shipping is better.  They are out of stock on the lids, but maybe you can get a little better price....just a thought.  There was a member here who used 6006 wicks and she swore by premiers, so you could try them out as a suggestion.  

 

Trappeur

Thanks for all of the feedback.  I know wet spots are normal but I figure it's a bonus if I don't have them. The red candle thing, do you mean that I got wax on the part of the wick that you light? It's from I use a heat gun too smooth out the surface and it splashes around.  Not sure how to avoid it other than a lower setting and taking longer. I'm going to check out the premier wicks soon. thanks!

So I'm about 2 months into this candle making gig.  I've switched from 464 to 6006 (wanted more hot throw, better colors are the bonus). Switched from ECO to zinc core wicks (ECO's sooted so bad for me, the zincs still soot a decent amount, thinking about testing out some CD).

Currently I'm using a presto pot to heat to 180-190, add liquid dye, add FO then immediately pouring into double wicked room temp 16oz jars.  I've read some FO reviews that say they must be heated to 185 or it won't mix right.  At what temp would most FO burn off? I'd like to maybe bump my targeted temp to 185-195.  Current set up gives me virtually no wet spots. maybe 1 out of every 10 in a batch.

Current costs are 

I'm happy with $5 per candle. that jar shipping cost is killer though.  Haven't found much better (using jarstore now).  The wax is a huge help because bulkapothocary is a 15 min drive for me. I got the logos printed all of one artwork, then I print a white on clear label from a label maker for the scent name. 

Finished product...

I had a hard time finding large double wick ones that didnt cost a ton.  So I use 2 craft sticks taped together on one end with the right amount of spacing for a wick to be snug, then place it kind of like a clothes pin and it rests on top of the jar.

Should I be using liquid measurements on a measuring cup or the dry weight from the same cup on a tared scale?

8 hours ago, Forrest said:

I’m using a 60-44-18 in a 4 inch tureen with 6006, but I just bought some CD wicks to try. I have poured around 100 candles with 6006 and never had a wet spot. I just pour them and let them cool on the granite counter top, so they cool relatively quickly. I don’t know why I don’t get them. I’ve used 6006 from 3 different suppliers, so I don’t see that as a factor. I usually pour at close to 170, but sometimes I pour at much less. Are you stirring your wax for 2 minutes when you add the oil?  

 

You're using a single 60-44-18? I'd like to try that. Yes I stir it very well slowly. I'll try pouring at a cooler temp next run if this last batch ends up with spots or holes.

I just did a test burn and so far the hot throw is so much stronger than the batch I did with 464.  I think I'll have to bump up one wick size. The 36-24-24 are leaving small edges of un melted wax but I guess I won't know until I light it 1-2 more times. I'm making another batch right now with 44-24-18 & 44-32-18 to see the difference. Does anyone know what the actual numbers mean? I'm guessing the first is something to do with the girth but what are  the other 2?

By the way that first batch I got a few wet spots that showed up after a few hours, I'm hardening these ones inside a small cabinet to slow the cooling.  I hope that fixes the holes and the wet spots. I'm going to pour at a higher temp too. 

So i just poured my first run using 6006. I used a little over 6% FO and double wicked with zinc 36-24-24 in 16oz 4” diameter containers. 

I didnt preheat the jars on this run just to see how bad the wet spots could be but there are none but I do have pretty bad sunken spots in the middle to where it’s an actual hole. I just used a heat gun to resettle it. From what I’ve read on here it’s caused by uneven cooling. Would preheating the jars fix this? (They cooled at room temperature about 72 degrees) also just for reference I heated to 185, added Dye block, added FO, cooled to 170 and poured. By using the heat gun trick, does that fix it totally or can that cause uneven burning in the future? This is only about my 4th run making candles total. I started with 464 and didn’t like the hot throw so I’m trying this now. 

On 10/29/2017 at 7:12 PM, bfroberts said:

Yes, I've done it a zillion times.  I use a lot of 6006 and could offer some wick suggestions if you'd like.  

I'm getting ready to do my first 6006 batch soon with 4" diameter glass jars, going to be using 10% FO, can you suggest a few wicks?

@Trappeur thanks for the info I appreciate it.  

Reason I started with 10% is because 464 holds max 12% fragrance (according to CS) so I just used 10%.  I will try out 6%

4 in dia jar I have double wicked with eco 10 (haven't done a test burn yet, figured I would start a little high then come down)

I was just guessing that for max throw you want to put the max amount of FO allowable.  I was going to cure for 3-4 days but I guess longer is better for the throw quality?

I just ordered some for my first batch and I found that jarstore.com/jars had the cheapest I could find. I got a 16 oz with glass lid for about $1.75 per jar including shipping.  Not sure if that's a well known site here.

Hello,

I just made my first batch ever and am waiting for them to cure for a few days.  I don't want to make 10 wrong turns and waste a bunch of money before I find the right path.  

I'm starting out with GW 464 because that sounded like a trusted one. (starting out with 4oz mini jars until I find the main scents I like, then will mainly use 16oz)

I got my FO from candle science for little over $1/oz

While they are curing I started doing more research and I'm curious if I should skip from soy to a blend IGI 6006 (I'm looking to get maximum hot throw) Thoughts?

Also I'm curious if anyone can comment on a quality comparison of FO between candle science and bulk apothecary.

CS seems pretty cheap but I just realized that BA is a 10 minute drive from me and would be really convenient to shop in store for new stuff.  Bulk apothecary is about double the price per ounce but they also claim that "Our fragrance oil can be used at .3%" due to no dilution.  My thought is that anyone can use .3% but will you really get a great hot throw? This batch that is curing, I used 10% FO (but I haven't tested yet)

Anybody got any thoughts on this? Thanks!