tamsoycandles

Candle Cocoon's creme brule cafe rocks!!

Another vote for creme brule cafe. It does lean toward "cafe", so keep that in mine.

Otherwise, the only other one I've tried was.... oh crap. Can't remember. I bet it was Candle Science. Almost positive....

I am using Just By Nature Candle Supply FO's and dyes. Except the block. I had to run and get some from the craft shop. I use about one ounce of FO per 1/2 pound of soy wax. I find that one FO I use from there is very slow burning. The slowest I have tried. It also just happens to be most peoples favorite, of course. I can't seem to get a wic large enough for it. It burns for a while but then fizzels out. Is there anything I can do to make it burn faster without having to have to add two wics? Some of my jars are small and won't allow room for two. Thank you for your reply! :smiley2:

That's a lot of FO. You might want to find out what the max fragrance load is for your wax. You're running at 12.5%. I typically run at 7.5% or so (about 1.2 oz. per pound).

Tony

OK, sorry - my bad Apologies. (This one looked kinda sooty to me - just from the pic).

Sometimes I get soot when I light the candle for a second burn. The lighter is what puts the soot on the jar in my case. That's the only soot I get on mine, unless I've got the wick wrong.

I finally got to the point where I could make a substantial wax and supply purchase, and had the opportunity to pick up at Candlemaker's Store in Hamilton, OH. I've purchased from them before several times, but always had the goods UPS'd. Well, I figured that five cases of wax would be very costly to UPS, and I had the week off from work and plenty of time to kill.

I called ahead, and asked Dave there (BTW there are two Daves there) if I could get the 5-19 case price break if I ordered two different waxes for a total of five cases. He said he did not have anyone ever ask for that, but said it was OK. Since I was going to order on Wed, it meant picking up on Thu, and their site asked for two day lead time to process order. He said it was OK to pick up on Thu!

Anyway, it took two hours to drive there from Indy, less than ten minutes to load and pay, two hours home, 270 mile round trip, and only cost me $22 in gas!

The crew at CStore deserve a big Thank You from me, and I would encourage anyone within 125 miles of them to patronize them.

geek

Kickin' up some old thread dust...

I've done the same. I work about 40-ish miles north of The Candlemaker's Store. Depending on the weight/quantity of stuff I'm buying, I'll make the trip down to grab it up. Great guys!

Tony

The outer shell is made from a pillar wax with 10% micro added to up its melting point. I also added 10% micro to my chunks wax. The container wax I use for the middle is a low temp container wax, much lower melt point than my shell. I've made these candles for many years. The trick is the micro wax and sizing down one size on my wick. You could also use hurricane wax for the outer shell if you have it in stock. This candle is the same as the hurricane shell that many make. I just take it a step further and add container wax for the middle instead of using the tea-lights that are usually used. I've had the mold for years so I don't remember where I purchased it. It's the large one-wick mold that many suppliers sell.

I have one of these big heart molds. I'm wondering how you get the void in the center, effectively making it a "shell"? Is there an insert that I can get somewhere to accomplish this, or do I need to fab my own?

Inqiring minds....

Does anyone have advice on how to get rid of the white line that appears after a burnt candle cools. It is where the MP was or below, and it's mainly in the darker colored candles. I use GB444 with ST, liquid dyes from BCN & MC, usually 8% fo. I have just started testing with dye blocks but haven't colored a candle very dark with this yet to get the line. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I get this too. Seems a feature of soy.

Umm- I am having a little more of a problem than just a little white residue appearing on the top of my soy candle when it is burning. The thing is foaming! - Help! I recently started making soy candles and I'm about to give it up. First, I couldn't get rid of the wet spots, still have them but getting better. Then, I had problems with my wick burning out, only in certain types of FO's. Anyone know why? Now, this foam thing. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! I use Cargill C-3 soy wax and soy based fragrance oils. I use liquid dyes but sometimes have added block in with it.

Thanks for your help, if your not afraid.

:tiptoe:

What/whose FOs are you using, and at what concentrations? Some FOs and colors require different wicks in the same jar...

Those heart jars look like they could be double-wicked... ya think?

Tony

I have seen this FO discussed in the past and I think I want to give it a try.

Who carries this fragrance? Any suggestions?

http://scentforum.com/

Do a little search....

Monkey Treats

Monkey's Picnic

Monkey Toots!

Primate Poofers?

Monkey Bombs?

Their Desert Sage is THE bomb in 100% soy.

These also perform outstanding in 100% soy: Lilac, Leather, Wintergreen, Country Cranberry, Grape, Snow Cream). I've used some others but that is all I can think of right now.

I forgot about Snow Cream. I'll add in Jack Frost. I'm pretty sure that Snow Cream is a mix of Jack Frost and Buttercreme.

I ordered Bayberry for some special requesters around Christmas time. Smells great, supposedly a true bayberry scent. I have NOT yet burned one to know how well it throws yet. Cold throw at 7.5% is great. Maybe I'll fire up that candle tonight....

Haven't smelled theirs, but I got a FO sample from The Candlemaker's Store that I've not yet put in wax. I like the scent, though...

I get regular requests for Buttercreme and Grandma's Kitchen.

I personally liked their Gingerbread and Eggnog that I tried out around Christmas time.

Twigs-n-berries, I like. Someone reported a throw problem with it, though.

btw, I use soy.

I used to have problems with wick stickums not staying stuck and coming loose when I'm bending them over the wick centering tool just before pouring. I found it happened when I was wicking a jar straight out of the box. Add to that, I keep my jars in my basement, which is cooler than the upstairs. What I have done to fix that is just give the jars a quick wash and dry, and make sure the jar is somewhat warm when setting the wick. They stick every time! I have had to remove the leftover wick tab with pliers after test burning a candle down to nothing, that's how well they stick for me.

HTH! geek

The only time I've had them come lose is when I've not washed the jar. I always wash and thoroughly dry the jars before I wick them.

I get my wick stickers from www.thecandlemakersstore.com

Tony

I attached them with wick stickums and center them with clothespins

I use the wick stickers from www.thecandlemakersstore.com

Then I get all high-tech and use a popsicle stick with a hole drilled in it to help center the wick.

Oh, and I also have a "target" that helps center the wick on the bottom. Target with concentric circles and a bulls-eye to aim the wick sticker at.

Wow Eco6 in a 3" pillar, I've tried 10 & 12 & had blow outs every time, I need to give the smaller ones a try soon.

Sally.

Interesting. My ECO 14 did not blow out... I'm suspecting the quality of these ECOs. I might get some from another source to test with.

Tony

That's the formula I go by...3" pillar, burn it for 3 hrs.

Cool. That's what I've been doing. I'll post some pics when I get all my tests done.

Tony

I've got a pillar with an HTP 1212, one with an ECO 14 and an LX 24. Think the 24 is too big? I guess we'll find out, eh? Tomorrow will be a good day to test, since I'll have enough spare time.

Tony

How long should I be doing the test burn? I thought I read 1 hour per inch of diameter. Is that correct?

Tony

I've got a pillar with an HTP 1212, one with an ECO 14 and an LX 24. Think the 24 is too big? I guess we'll find out, eh? Tomorrow will be a good day to test, since I'll have enough spare time.

Tony

Leave them til tomorrow so that they are properly hardened then go ahead & test, I've been playing with that wax in 3" pillars myself so I'd be interested to hear your results.

I've tried Eco's so far but I'm about to try LX20's. What wicks are you using?

Sally.

How long should I wait to test unscented, uncolored pillars? I'm testiing 3 wicks in 3" pillars. EcoSoya PB. Pillars with the concave tops. So far I'm happy with the wax. They came out of the mold wonderfully. I'm anxious to put a flame to them and start the testing.

Thanks!

Tony

I just got some Ecosoya PB to do some pillar tests. I'll keep you posted on my results. I am going to make a few 3x3 pillars and test wicks. I want to wait a couple days before my burn...

I am starting tests with the HTP 1212. Still deciding on what size ECO and LX to try.

Tony

Yes the fro has been posted here or on the old board at some time. BUT just for fun......

Quite impressive...

What is needed is a legitimate, independent/impartial study to put this "issue" to rest.

Tony

I've used their blend in a heart shaped pillar mold that I bought there as well. I've not yet figured how to wick that thing though...

Tony

Yep, Candlewic.

Also, AWE's soy pillar blend has a nice feathery & sparkly finished texture. Edited to add that I've only used the AWE one for votives. But they come out nice! I've got a pic around here somewhere ...

Here ya go. These were fresh out of the molds and hadn't been cleaned up yet, so kindly use your imagination.