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craftwerks

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Everything posted by craftwerks

  1. Not too bad...it cost me 18 dollars (in Norway I consider that normal ). It Is a spray and it is matt black. not sure yet Ill let you know!
  2. thanks! I haven't completed the testing yet as I had to take a break from my candle venture. However I have ordered some new wicks so I cross my fingers that at least one of them gives a good response. I actually bought this amazing chalk paint and I have decided to use this paint instead of the original brown glass. Im in loveeee
  3. Very true! There aren't many making candles as a small business, and those who do it, are not really much competition *in my opinion .
  4. I think I will do that It is the size, but Im wondering if it is cm or mm..like id have to order several different types in order to figure out the sizes. Anyways, Ill contact the supplier
  5. l No problem. I know that rapeseed wax is very uncommon in the states.
  6. Question; I am looking at a wick that says TB8, TB9,TB10 What do the numbers stand for?
  7. I am going to order new glasses and see if ma woops I mean to say I am using Eco2 NV- 80 mm + 15 mm tab 50 stk.
  8. Yes, Norway is extremely beautiful....but expensive! The candle market isn't so present over here which makes it even harder to find suppliers etc. I am using rapeseed wax (I believe it goes by the name Canola wax, too). When it comes to explaining what wick I am using... I get mine from a Norwegian supplier and these are the spes:SRV12, 120 MM +15 mm tab. It is a natural wick...
  9. it is like a never ending nightmare finding the correct wick. I guess I will try and find a smaller wick then.
  10. Im back! After a long break... I have tested my wax and bought new wicks BUT it doesn't seem right. The melt pool is just right and the candle burns all the way to the edges, but the flame is flickering constantly. I feel like giving up. What do I do from here? Edit: the picture is the candle with a diameter of apr. 2.3 inches. The wick has also been reduced in size...
  11. Yikes, okay...I will try order a size smaller then. So a correctly wicked jar is hot, but not so hot you can't hold it? just so I know what I'm looking for...
  12. This is the second burn. It has cleared up now I have another question. It has been burning for apr. 5-7 hours and the glass is pretty hot. The part from the melted wax and above. Is it normal that the glass is so hot? It is so hot that if I was to pick the jar up by the top, I wouldn't be able to. It was mentioned to me on this forum that I should decrease my wick size if its that hot, but the wick is perfect for this wax...An
  13. So this is my medium sized candle after it has burned for about 4 hrs (not 4 consecutive hours) The candle seems to be burning well and the wick size seems to be good. However I'm not a fan of the trail of wax that is being left on the sides. Is this normal?
  14. Sorry, I forget that Americans dont really use mm. Ill edit my post Edit. I wasn't able to edit so Ill write here> 65 mm / 2.5 inch
  15. Oh, silly me. I was expecting it to burn evenly within a short time. No, they have been burning for an hour actually...Ill let it burn some more then.
  16. I have started burning my second Bach of testers. Not getting good results and I think I need some advice. Picture 1 and 2 is the biggest container of 160 ml. It has a diameter of 65 mm. The wick is supposed to be used with my wax and for a container with max 65 mm. It has barely melted the sides... Picture 3 is my middle container of 120 ml. It is definitely tunneling, but the flame seems to be emiting enough heat, so I'm unsure... The wicks look centered?
  17. It is a wax that is widely used over here in Europa. There is a large production of rapeseed oil here, so it is the most common wax to find when it comes to candle making. It is certainly possible to max wax out of any oil. I actually came across a Swedish retailer selling rose wax...
  18. That is good to hear I realized my glue gun is a high temp. that melts between 165-200 c so I think I will take the chance and use the glue and see how it turns out. I will let the wick assembly dry for an hour before I start pouring. Thanks for your reply
  19. I see. I guess that my only option is the silicon then.
  20. I managed to find this one....can almost handle up to 650 f https://motaman.co.uk/Permatex-Supra-Blue
  21. ah, Im looking but I only found the Blue permeated in the shop over here. Is a glue that can withstand +150 c (302 f) enough or should I keep looking?
  22. Well, as it has been pointed out, safety is more important than having 100 % natural candles, so a little dot of glue is definitely worth it. I will try and see how it goes. Im not selling yet, so I will test out a few candles.
  23. I have read about permatex on this site; seems like it is a popular choice. I live in Scandinavia so it isn't so easy to find that one. Im looking for something similar, but I really prefer something that would be easy to remove after using the candle. I did buy a hot glue gun. I read that one user on here applies the glue, and then poured wax to the bottom of the wick to keep it in place.
  24. Thanks for the reply. I am happy that I have found this forum so I dont end up making terrible mistakes. My next step now is to find the appropriate wick and I think I will go for a tea light wick and see how that holds up. I have seen candles that have 30 mm containers so it isn't impossible I am also on the hunt for an appropriate solution to stick the wick tab correctly. I have read that it is important to find a glue that can withstand high temperatures. Maybe it is the worrier in me ( I do tend to overthink everything) but would it have to be a glue that is especially for making candles or just a glue that has the right temperature?
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