carman767

Thanks for the help, this will speed things up for me. I still find myself converting to grams, I guess I don't need to be that precise on my measurements. Thanks again

Does anyone have a quick formula to figure FO percent per pound. I've been figuring it out by grams, but need a quicker method. a formula that would help when trying to figure out how much FO to add to a certian amount of wax to get a desired fragrance %. I don't know if that made any scence! If I only need 12oz of wax, a formula to tell me how much FO to add to get 8% fragrance load. Please help!!! while I rest my brain for a few minutes......

poured at 150 degrees, mfg suggested between 140 & 160. I figured 150 would be middle of the road.

I let them sit for 48hr before I touch them, that includes trimming the wick. I had seen a thread here about letting soy candles cure for several days, so I let them sit. They have been cureing for 5 days, maybe I will let them sit a little longer. I made the same candles using J223 with CD 8 wicks, results were a little better but nothing like the Mulberry & Vineyard. This makes me want to believe that these maybe weak scents. Thanks for your help.

still trying my hand with soy, but having a problem. I'm using NatureWax C-3, ECO 8 wicks, and 1 to 1.5 oz. of FO per pound, in 6.5oz classic and 7.5oz. salsa jars. I tried Mulberry & Vineyard, got an awsome cold and hot throw, will run you out of the room. I tried Country Clothesline & ButteryVanilla, you have to stand right over the flame to smell it. I bumped it up to 1.5oz per pound with the same results, no throw. I have a very good melt pool, complete pool with no hangup, and 1/4 to 1/2 inch depth. The ECO 8 wicks give a good flame, no sout & flame is about 3/4 inch high. I'm still confused! Am I doing something wrong, or maybe these scents just don't throw good is soy. Also, following Mfg. directions on melting, mixing, and pouring. Any suggestions!!

Thanks for the input, I believe I'll double wick just to be on the safe side. How do you determine what size to use if you double wick? I like the CD wicks, but using ECO would keep it 100% soy!

Thanks for the help, I see you double wick this large jar. The only thing I wasn't to crazy about the HTP wics, was that they curl over when burning. A few smaller test candle I burned, the melt pool shifted over more to one side and left a little hangup on the otherside.

Can a temperature change outside as well as inside affect a test burn. Last week I test burned some 6.5 oz classic & 7.5 oz salsa jars with very good results. Using J223 wax, CD8 wics good melt pool and scent throw. I did about 3 test burns over the weekend, good results. Last week temp. was 70 to 75 degrees out side, I usually keep it around 75 to 80 inside when working with candles. Today it's about 55 degrees outside and around 70 degrees inside. I have the same candles test burning again with horrible results. Not a full melt pool, and small flame, looks like the flame might drown out. Can a temperature change affect the burn that much???

New to candle making, have had fairly good results with small containers. I would like to try a 16oz Apothecary, and need a little help on wicking. Jar is 4" in diameter by 3.5 Tall. I am using Cargill Nature Wax C-3, and have 3 wicks to choose from, HTP, CD, ECO. Which would be a good starting point? Should I concider double wicks? Scent I want to try is Mulberry. Any help will be appreciated!!!!

Thanks for you help! I heat wax to 175 and dye and scent, stir well and then let cool. Stiring often while it is cooling, and a good stir before I pour. I will keep testing with different wics & jars, maybe I'll come across a good combination.

Recommended pouring temp is between 140 & 160, I pour at 150. I haven't tried a heat gun on the tops yet, I have just been doing a repour. Alot of the tips I've seen here are pouring temp around 100 or when wax is slushy. I might try that. The room I'm working in isn't to big about average, and I keep it on the warm side when working with candles. I was trying to get away from having to preheat glass before pouring, glass is clean and at room temp. For cureing, I let them sit for at least 48hours before I even touch them. could the small containers have and affect on the scent throw? The 6.5 oz classic has a 2 inch neck on it, and the 7.5 oz salsa is not much bigger. Since I am new, I wanted to try small containers before I went to 16oz or even bigger.

I am new to making candles, and did alot of research on soy wax before I deceided to try it. I deceided to try NatureWax C3. I like the wax, easy to work with. The problem I'm having is after it starts to cure, it cracks around the top about a 1/2 from the wick. It looks like a small sink hole around the middle. Is this normal? I follow the instructions for the wax. Please help??? Also scent throw is not all that great, trying variaty of scents still same result. Using NatureWax C3 ECO-8 Wick 6.5 oz classic jar & 7.5 oz salsa jar 1/2 to 5/8 oz scent The wick seems to be OK, good flame and full melt pool

I think I know were my wet sopts are coming from, and it's MY fault. It's not so much as a spot, it's more the side of the jar. I'll try a few more today to see how they come out. I don't want to say just yet what I think it might be, but if it is I'll let you know tomorrow. Thanks for the tip on the therometer, will give it a try.

The wet spots appeared. I did a repour on a couple of candles this morning, just before I posted the question about thermometers, went to check the candles and there they were. Big wet spot on each candle near the top. they were fine before the repour. That's why I am questioning the temp reading. Anybody have any ideas...or am I doing something else wrong? Using IGI 6006 Heating to 185 Pouring 170 Repour 175 to 180

I am a new to making candles, and I have only posted here a few times. I made my first candles last week, they turned out pretty good. My kit came with a glass thermometer, works good. I picked up an easy read thermometer over the weekend to see if it would be easier to work with. The problem I ran into was the two didn't have the same reading. I used the easy read Monday on some candles I was making and noticed it was taking longer than usual for my wax to heat up. I put the glass thermometer in the pot, gave it a few minutes and there was about a 15 to 20 degree difference in the readings. Do you think it might be just a bad therometer. I tend to want to trust the glass therometer. Has anyone ever had this problem. A few degrees I could take, not 15 or 20. The first candles I made turned out good. Only 2 of them had a wet spot. Followed instruction by the book, now I starting to question which one is accurate. I don't know if the wax is getting to hot or not hot enough. Please help........