hyp0r

For some reason my candles have complete separated from the molds after the first pour. While I was trying to poke some relief hols the candle broke free and was rotating around the wick. I pour some other candles just a couple of hours earlier and this did not happen. My guess is that it was colder when I did the second batch which caused it to cool too quickly or something. I covered everything with a cardboard box to try and keep them from cooling too quickly. So, my real question is, should I remelt that wax and do the initial pour again? I'm not sure how it would work if I did a second pour, wax would run down between the candle and the mold. What should I do? And do you agree that this could have been caused by cold temperatures? Separated candle. Other candles I poured a couple of hours earlier.

Wow, it seems like everyone has a different way of doing it. Thanks for all of your suggestions, looks like I have a lot of options.

Is this close enough?

I agree that I need to wick up. I'm using IGI-4625 with 24-ply flat braid wick.

Can anyone let me in on the secret of holding your mold at an angle? I'd like to make some of those angled layered candles that I see everywhere, but I'm having trouble thinking of something to hold the mold. Thanks!

Who sells the Ocean Breeze scent? Is it similar to the Pier 1 ocean scent? My fiancée likes that Pier 1 ocean scented candle (it's blue and white) but they don't seem to carry it anymore. I want an fo that's similar to that one.

Test burn at 3 hours.

This is my first two color candle. It's freesia.

Which ones are they? The ones I got 36-24-24Z always seem to mushroom and create smoke.

I just poured my votives at 115 degrees, the wax came out like a slushy and the tops already look bad, they've got like little air bubbles and chunks on top. A bunch of wax got stuck in my pouring pot, like a thick shell on the inside. Someone else suggested to me that I just pour at 160 degrees and then do a second pour at 165 degrees. I'll try that next time. So much for the "one pour behavior".

Rather than insulting the whole space, maybe you can do something on a smaller scale. Just insulate the area the candles are cooling in rather then the whole corner. You might be able to do this just but putting a cardboard box (or some Styrofoam) over the candles as they cool. The freshly poured candles should give off enough heat to warm the area under the box. If needed you can always direct a little heat at the boxes and it should keep it warm inside, just make sure you don't direct "too much" heat at any cardboard!

Well I poured some soy containers tonight (with the Ecosoya CB-135), they turned out great. I think I need to wick up though. I tested with a HTP-104, HTP-105, and HTP-126 tonight. The 105 and 126 are about the same (104 is way too small), but I'm not getting a full melt pool. I'm gonna have the try the HTP-1212, I was going to test the 1212 tonight but I miscalulated on my wax and didn't have enough. :undecided

I tried over and over with IGI-1554 and I had problems with the wax cracking off in front of my paper. The guy I was making it for liked it anyways and I sold it to him for a discounted rate.

I've never poured at this low of a temp becuase it always starts to congeal before it gets this low. Well I was reading about the soy wax and maybe you're right. It sounds like if I just keep stirring it constently it will be fine at lower temps, but if I stop stirring it'll start to congeal... I'll try this on my next batch.

Well the votives that didn't stick turned out much better when they were cooled in the ice chest, there was no shrinkage at all, the ones cooled at room tempatre had some srinkage on top (and those nasty air bubbles). Other than the fact that they stuck to the mold, they turned out great. Maybe it's the conditioning part? Some of the molds I was using were brand new and hadn't been used before. I'm going to have that says that's the culprit in this case. I just poured some Spiced Cranberry votives, I'll let you know how they turn out. Thanks for all of your help!

1. 1 - No Hassle 2. Manual Spigot

How long do I need to wait? I left the voitives in ice chest to cool for 14 hours, and then I took the cover off the ice chest for 8 hours since I figured they would have trouble cooling completly with the cover on. Personally I thought they were comepltly cool when I took the cover off, I just left them sit the additional time for good measure, I guess I need to let them sit even longer.

Well I took the votives out of the molds tonight, three of them kinda got stuck to the sides. Do you think this is because the mold was cold? Or maybe not clean enough? See picture. Thanks.

Everythings going good (at least that's what I think). By this time (4 hours after I poured) on the last batch they were already completly cool to the touch, right now they're still quite warm which means they are cooling a lot slower than before which hopefully will help out! One of the votives does have a tiny bubble on the top of it, I tried to tap all the bubbles out before I covered them not sure how this one snuck in (see picture) -- I know which one I'm gonna test with first. I'll test them out tomorrow night and let everyone know how it goes. Thanks for all of your help.

Okay, see my beautiful pictures below. [image 1] I placed my votive molds as close together as I could (I didn't want them to touch). [image 2] I waited for the wax to cool to about 130 degrees. [image 3] I poured my wax. [image 4] I covered them in a syrofoam ice chest. And now, I wait... I'll post some pictures of how they turn out.

Thanks, siberia I'll try that right now. I also found an ice chest that I will cool them in. UPDATE Well, at 125 degrees it was starting to congeal so I thought I'd try pouring, but it was totally solidifying right in my pouring pot so I dumped it back in, I think I'll try at 135 or something.

Well the page I bought it from says: "Pouring temperature should be around 140 deg." The page also says "A very low shrink wax which exhibits one pour behavior.", which of course I could ignore and poke releif holes anyways, but it's so nice to only have to do one pour. I'll see if anyone who uses the Ecosoya VB knows anything else. Thanks SatinDucky!

Well I was doing a test burn on one that didn't crack when I pulled the wick pin, looks like it has a bubble too (see attached picture). They probably all have bubbles. I'll just have to redo the whole batch tomorrow night. I hope with everyones advice there won't be any air bubbles.

I poured my first votives tonight, I used the Ecosoya VB wax, no dye, no FO. I did a single pour at about 145 degrees. Two of the eight that I poured had large air bubbles near the wick pin, which caused the votives to crack when I pulled the wick pins. What causes this? And how can I prevent it from happening? See attached pictures. Thanks!