Turtle Wax

I am wondering if LX-18 or LX-24 from CandleScience might work?

Thanks. I am wondering if there are any pre-tabbed wicks that might do the trick... can you tell I am wick-impaired? lol

Ok. Going with just the round molds for now. Thank you both. If I may impose a bit further, could one of you (or both) possibly post a link directing me to the wick you would use for this application? I've only ever done votives so far, and I am accustomed to using wick pins, I don't know if that will do me any good with this... then using pre-tabbed wicks after... is there something that is easy to use and a good place to get them?

I've been gone for some time from this forum, and candlemaking altogether for that matter. It's still a passion, just not something I can afford to do for a living at this stage in the game... What I would like to do is create a chunk candle using some seamless aluminum molds I plan to buy after hearing some advice from you all. One will be octagon, one square, and one round, all 3" dia x 4.5" tall. I plan to use some IGI 4625 that I've had laying around for a while for the chunks, slightly smaller than sugar cubes. 1) Will it be ok if I use the 4625 as my overpour as well as the chunks? 2) If the answer to #1 is yes, what temp should the overpour occur at? 3) What would you recommend as far as easy and effective wicking for something like this? Thank you all for your help! It is very much appreciated!

Ok, how about The Flaming Candle? Just discovered them, looks promising... any opinions on quality, customer service?

Ok. First, let me say that I do make sense of how they do business (realizing it puts me in the minority), and I do love their FO selections and pricing. However, having ordered 2 batches of a dozen FO's each, I've yet to be wow'd. OOB, they all seem to have a "sweet tart" smell to me. The first two I made into votives- Blueberry Cobbler and Blueberry Streusel- initially smelled like kerosene in hot wax (IGI 4625) and for the first few days after. They did improve with curing, but alas they still didn't smell anything like blueberry; more like sweet maple syrup. I'm going to move on to the others and will keep an open mind, and report back. They will likely remain my wax vendor. Their staff is very helpful and personable. I really don't want a dozen FO vendors, so is there any favorites you all would recommend?

Got my 2nd batch of FO's from Candlemaker Store the other day. Primarily bakery scents. I have my opinion, which I will share, but I want to get some of yours first. Thanks!

Ancient Chinese Secret

Thank you guys n dolls. I've done little else since New Years other than eat, sleep, and breathe candle research. Oh, and work full-time midnight shifts. I need to take a step back for a few weeks and regroup. I have the luxury of being able to now, since I'm still only in the formative stages. When I return, I'll definitely reference this page often!

Since I know I'm going to use the 1343 anyway, I'm thinking I'll use the remaining 8 lbs of 4625 for chunks, w the 1343 for overpour. I realize 4625 is a higher melt point, but have any of you tried it or know someone who has? Any comments on the results?

The second batch I did had a much darker FO OOB. It was also much more stubborn when blending (added in at about 190F on both FO's). As soon as I hit the tapper, the first few drops of wax came with unblended oil spots. So... I need a better blending method apparently. Perhaps an automatic stirring aperture rigged to it. This project has the side effect of inventing things. My presto will not just have the tapper, but also have a built in retractable thermometer apparatus, auto-stir, bi-directional caster wheels that will run along a track, on an adjustable height AND angle surface... lol

Re-reading, I see that I was supposed to pour at 180F. I suppose that 20 degree difference makes up a big part of the problem. I'd love to post pics, alas my digital camera is being temperamental. There's not much to see anyway really, it's clear wax (water-like) in a presto pot. Pours perfectly from the tapper, begins to cloud after 2-3 mins., mostly solid 35 mins-ish. I only had the 1oz tester. Afterward, I cleaned the presto and did another pound- this time with one called Blueberry Streudel. Smelled WAY better. Again, no dye. These turned out about the same color as raw yellow beeswax lol... good news this time is that there's no 2-tone thing happening. Still issues w repour separation. Gonna move on to some coffee FO's tonight I think. My goal is a scented chunk votive and thus: 1) I shouldn't be upset about repour separation (it's just in my extreme analytical nature to need to know why it's happening; 2) I'm using the wrong wax to begin with. I need translucency, so I need to order some 1343. Thinking the scents should be relatively/proportionately similar. If I can get pics, I certainly will share!

Ok I may need a pep talk here. Yesterday I melted a pound of 4625 and added in an oz of Candle Makers Store Blueberry Cobbler at roughly 185F. Stirred for roughly 3 mins. No dye. Poured at roughly 160F into poly molds. Results: The house smelled like kerosene. Significant shrinkage after around 30 mins. Repoured, and waited. Very crumbly when popping out of the molds. Color was akin to a pale neon green glow stick. The repour only adhered to half of the 10 candles I made. Furthermore, the candles have almost like a 2-tone thing going on. Slightly lighter on the top half than the bottom half. Both opaque. Please give me some thoughts on this. I'm trying to remain optimistic, but getting quite discouraged...

Yes I was thinking more about not wanting them to get mushy when dropping them in a mold already containing hot wax...

Also, should I use a higher melt point wax for the chunks themselves?

Ok, I just bought some 4625. Has anyone ever used it to make chunk votives? It was a toss-up between it and 1343. Just don't feel like dealing w additives at this point. Also ordered some 36-24-24-Z wicks, everything from Candle Makers Store, to be made in a polycarbonate mold. Am I on the right track?

Just trying to understand the reasoning behind going from one vessel to another then to a mold, when you could just pour straight from the tapper to the mold? Do you ever run into residual dyes or scents in the Presto?

Let me just go find an ATM machine...

It's hard to say, really, not knowing your market with respect to a pricing scheme. I know you can go into any nationwide chain and find boring robot made, poorly scented votives for the prices you are selling yours. You have unique handcrafted pieces of art, and people will pay extra for it. A $3.99 price point seems very reasonable to me, with a "buy 3 get 1 free" offer. Again just my opinion. What I plan to label mine with is a circle shaped folded tag. 4 faces altogether. 1) Company logo, contact info etc, 2) The Dessert Parlour Collection, Collect all 8! (I'll list my 8 fragrances with a tiny box next to each, and X the fragrance you are looking at), 3) "Here at Kerzenladen, each of our candles are hand made and always will be. Our tiny artisan shop is located...", 4) Warning labeling. I'm also planning a small bakery box to house all 8, and sell it for around $24.99ish.

Thanks Karen. Perhaps I'll find an alternative to the whisk. I'm hesitant to mix in a separate vessel; sounds messy, and how can you be sure temp will hold long enough to blend dyes, FO's then pour? Seems you would quickly lose 10-15 degrees?

Okay, picked one up from Wallyworld a week ago for $25. It's smaller than I envisioned, but it will do. My next step is to retrofit it with a ball valve tapper, removable caster wheel carriage on the bottom, and adjustable digital thermometer arm up top. I plan to mix dyes and FO's right in it using a flat bottomed wire whisk, then pour into polycarbonate votive mold like I'm a bartender with a speed tapper, wheel it to the next one, repeat... My question is this- what would you use to maintain the kettle? I will keep it warm, pour out what little is left into a repurpose designated container, then use an old t-shirt to absorb what's left. BUT- what about residual fragrance and / or liquid dye? I may switch to a new color and / or scent and I don't want to co-mingle the ingredients. And I REALLY don't want one kettle for each color and / or fragrance. Any help is appreciated!

Anyone have any luck wick testing scented paraffin chunk votives?

Personally- and this is just MY opinion here- as beautiful as your presentation truly is, it is distracting. The cello packaging is very nicely done and I think it can be put to better use AFTER the sale. For a presentation for those beautiful votives, I like your shrink wrap idea better. Here's why: 1) Customers are MUCH more likely to buy what they can easily pick up, hold, smell, etc. 2) The shrink wrap will help the votive retain fragrance, and fragrance is what sells 80% of all candles. I'd keep the gift wrapping off to the side and remind the customer gift packaging is available for a dollar more? Lately I've been giving a lot of thought to a cake box package solution, with a cello window up top looking down into a votive variety pack. Think Whitman's Samplers, only a see thru top. We have a very similar product line, I hope you're not too close nearby lol

Thank you so much! Know any good vendors/resources?

Ok, it can't really be as simple as I'm thinking can it? Get some kind of container for your oil, add oil, insert sticks. I'm thinking I wouldn't mind selling these retail in my eventual candle store. Can y'all point me in a good direction to learn more about this? Vendors, pros/cons, legalities, business hazards, etc.?