lauralea

Joy Wax from Natures Garden. 1 day cure time

If I use a heat gun on the tops will it get rid of the seepage?

I did a second pour on some testers to see if that would give me a smooth top. Tops are really smooth and nice, but after a couple of days they all have seepage. I used 10% fo.  Does anybody do second pours to fix tops or just use the heat gun? 

Whenever I quick cooled this wax it formed a thin, brittle crust on top. If I slow cool it, the tops are hard and smooth. Maybe it’s due to the palm in it. Someone at the beginning of this topic also had the same issue as I did. I’m still in the testing stages

Just starting to test this wax, HTP wicks are working the best for me in 4 oz tins, 8 ounce mason jars and a ziva jar. 

I let my tins cool cool in an enclosed box and tops are perfect. I let the jars cool in a box but also sitting on a heating pad and tops look really nice except for one that had a little diver but did not form that thin, brittle layer on top. The next time I decided to put the heating pad on top of the box to cool instead of on the bottom. Tops were horrible and mushy. 

Thank you all for your input. I already use almond, avocado and apricot in my soap and it is very moisturizing. I don’t think it needs vitamin e, it was just a customer request.  I’ll explain to her that some of the oils naturally contain it. 

Customer wants it for moisturizing properties 

Does anyone use Vitamin E in their soap? I had a request to make some with it and wondering if people like it and how much to use. 

Island Temptations is a great seller for me. Balsam Citrus is wonderful in soap and candles.Honey Patchouli is a decent seller. Lavender Apples & Oak is another top seller. 

Thank you

I’m going to give Nature Wax C-1 a try after using Joy Wax for years. Wondering what the cure time for an unscrnted pour will be. Do I need to give it a 2 week cure if unscented  or is that only for ones with fo?  

I have been using Joy Wax for about 4 years and I really do like it.  I have many people say it is the best candle they ever burned.  The problem is, I live in the South and it just melts too easily when I do outdoor events.  I'm tired of having to make sure the sun isn't shining on them and always moving the display back into some shade.  Is there a soy or soy blend that does better in the summertime outside?  Maybe I can just make the Joy Wax during the colder seasons. 

I am using Joy Wax and the diameter is 1 3/4". Thank you for your reply.

I am making candles in  a 2 oz. Status jar using a CD 2 wick, it is the only size in CD that I have found that burns decent but the glass does get a bit hot.  Not too hot that I can't pick it up but a lot hotter than the 8 oz or 12 oz Status jars. It gets a full MP in about an hour to hour and a half.  MP has not been deeper than 1/2",  Is there a smaller wick than a CD2 I could try? 

I use it and love it.  They always come out so creamy and nice.  I have only used the fO's that are shown to throw in soy and have had no trouble with cold or hot throw. I use the CD wicks.

Thanks ChrisR. I thought it might mess up my testing. 

I am new to candle making, been dabbling off and on for about 6 months.  I am testing with CD wicks and have bought them from about 3 different suppliers.  I noticed that the CD5 from one supplier is larger than the CD6 from a different supplier.  Don't the wicks get bigger as the number gets bigger?  Should I only test with wicks that come from the same supplier? 

What wicks are you using?  I use the CD wicks.  I experimented with zinc, hemp, and eco but they did not do that well. 

Yes, I use the FO guide that is pinned at the top of the thread.  These are the fo's I have tested that throw well.  Vanilla Hazelnut from Peaks.  Moonlight Path from Peaks.  Carribean from NG.  Coco Mango from NG. Butt Naked from NG. Coconut Cabana from NG.

I am new to candle making, started last fall with GB 464 and Joy Wax. I decided to go with Joy Wax over the 464 because they always came out  with really nice tops and stayed a creamy white.  I don't plan to color my candles and the 464 after burning, turned a tannish color a lot of the time. I am getting very good HT using only the fragrances that are known to throw.  I have 7 fragrances tested now in tins that have excellent hot and cold throw.  I used the guide at the top of this thread for fragrance oils and have stuck with getting only those.

I am testing 8 oz tins with 60-52-18 and 51-32-18. Don't really like how either are burning, getting some soot and flame too large. Will go down smaller. Thank you for your replies.

The 62-52-18 zinc wick from Peaks and Candle Wic both say it is for a container with a 4 1/2" to 5 1/2" diameter. The 62-52-18 from NG says it is for a container with a 3" to 4" diameter. That is a pretty big discrepancy. Will suppliers have a different wick even though they say they are the same size and type.

I am using Joy Wax in 4 oz tins and an 8 oz tins. The 4 oz tins are wicked with a Hemp 838, one with a zinc 44-24-18 and one with a CD5. The 8 oz tins are wicked with zinc 51-32-18 and a zinc 62-52-18. All wicks are from Natures Garden as is the FO Coco Mango. My question isn't really about the size wick, although if you have a suggestion other than the ones I listed, I appreciate all advice. My question is since I did a test burn to see which wick burned the best without waiting several days for the candle to cure, can I now wait for the cure to test for the HT. I am wondering if doing a test burn before the candle cured will mess up the HT. I hope I explained myself a little better.

I am new to candle making. I made several candles yesterday in tins and test burned them today to see how the wicks did. I know the fo needs to cure. Can I now wait several days for the cure, and then finish test burning and also test for the HT as I test the wicks? I am wondering since I did a test burn before the FO could go through a cure, if I have messed up the HT for a later burn.

I have been experimenting with lotion bars and was wondering if anyone used dimethicone or cyclomethicone (not sure if I spelled it right) in theirs to cut the greasiness. Have used it in dry oil body sprays, and was thinking it may work nicely in lotion bars also.