Cissy

Thanks AngelaVA

You figured out exactly what I was trying to say. Great idea/solution!

You know how to think back on a beginner's level.

Scented: I might just try that...pouring an extra dollap to sniff.....might save the temptation of stripping the threads on my lids!

Someone step in here & correct me if I'm wrong......

28.5 grams = 1 oz

30 mililiters = 1 oz liquid

There is a chart for measuring ml. called Handy Kitchen Measuring on the Candlemakers Store website

It appears there is only a slight difference in a ml. and a gram.

My digital scale from Walmart only measures grams and pounds/oz

Are you guys talking about the "Good Cook" brand from Walmart? That's the one I bought....it appears to be accurate to me. Just need confirmation that this is the brand you're using, also.

Thanks for responding. I am waiting for the candles to cool before I put the lids on, but then I want to keep taking the lids off frequently just to smell them. I wasn't sure it if taking them on & off to smell during the curing time (2 or 3 days, however long I cure them) would affect the throw in any way.

I have a couple of silly questions. I just made some test candles yesterday and am curing them now. They smell so good that I want to keep opening them to smell. Does it affect the curing in any way to keep taking lids off? I know I am going to find it very difficult to not keep smelling them every few hours. Also, I read about others putting their candles in the oven or a cooler to let them cool slowly. When I poured them, I barely moved one and it messed up the candle line, i.e. the wax line wax uneven at top of candle. How do other move hot candles into a box or the oven without doing this...other than "carefully". I barely touched this candle.

The customer service at Candle Science is the greatest. I spoke with Daniel a couple days ago He is so patient and informative. I'm sure he's very busy, but he never showed it, answering all my questions patiently. We discussed a couple of new FO's he is extensively testing now to get great results before putting them on their website (1) Red Hot Cinnamon and (2) a new Baked/Hot Apple Pie type. He is testing in Soy and paraffin. I can't wait to get both if he offers them in the future. I will be watching their site frequently for their availability. I told him if he can match Home Interiors Baked Apple Pie, he would be sure to get lots of business from us candlemakers.

Maybe I am trying to complicate this, but I am trying to figure how to make an 8 oz candle without having any wax left over. If I figure the % of 8 oz of wax, I will have to reduce the amt of wax I'm putting into the 8 oz jar making room for the FO or any additives, therefore increasing the actual FO % in ratio to the (less that 8 oz) of wax I can put in that jar. Does this make any sense, or am I trying to be too precise? If a wax can hold only an approximate percentage of FO, couldn't this cause you to go over that limit?

For example 8 oz wax using 5% FO:

8x.05 = .4 FO

8 - .4 = 7.6 wax

.4 ~ 7.6 = .0526 % FO (which is the actual % of FO in ratio to 7.6 oz wax

in jar) which doesn't sound like much, but it will

make a bigger increase in maximum FO allowed if you

are using 10 to 12 % FO load.

This makes sense to me as far as preciseness in figuring FO%, but I cannot for the life of me figure out how to get that 5.26 % down to an exact 5%

FO load for this 8 oz jar. Can anyone else figure this out? I suppose I should just do it the simple way based on 16 oz. and pour tarts or something with the leftover wax. I'm just a beginner and really just wanted to make (1) 8 oz candle with .75 oz of the 1-oz samples I've ordered to test (changing wicks in same jar until I find the right one)......trying to be conservative at this point... testing only one candle when or if possible. Are there any geniuses

out there who can figure this out?...or is the maximum FO % load based on the total finished candle as opposed to the actual amount of wax? I believe this has been the confusion with others also who are also trying to start with a certain amt of wax and end up with the exact amt of FO allowed.

Donna

Thanks for the info. That will help a great deal. It certainly convinces me to order Pryme dyes when I need to reorder dyes.

Oops! Didn't re-read your msg. You were asking about FED EX..Sorry

I received a UPS ground delivery (at a business address) recently on Saturday (in S.C.) If location makes any difference, I'm not sure.

Could someone email me the Excel Color Sheet, please? I don't have Excel.

Email to dahucks@sccoast.net

Thanks so much!

I know this is an old thread, but it relates to my current question. Where do you buy the polyeurathane spray, and is it non-flammable? I am very concerned about safety. I'm still practicing candlemaking, but want to plan ahead for labels and need to practice on those also (since I've never made any before). I would like to use 4x5 size on some of my jars. I might also want to use this size in the clear plastic labels, but don't want to have them melting when the candle gets hot. I want a label which I can print vibrant colors on, though, so the white paper-type labels (such as the Avery type) might be better, but I want a glossy finish on the labels. I'm assuming the white paper-type labels are non-flammable, since its seems that lots of candlemakers are using this type. Am I correct in this assumption? Any advice will be appreciated

Is there a difference between the paraflint and the translucent crystals or are they basically the same as the descriptions seem to be which I've read on various sites? I'm looking for a container wax ( refined paraffin) which will give me a transparent glossy look. Is there any type paraffin I can use for containers, possibly with a suggested additive(s) that will give me this look? I'm sure there has to be because I've seen this look in the Home Interior container wax that I really like. I have tried soy, and don''t want the creamy look. It has been suggested that I try the J50 and the IGI 4627. After reviewing these, it sounds as if the 4627 will be too soft-looking for me. I'm still not convinced the J50 will give me this look. I'm sure both would be easier to work with because of the repours issue, but I still want to try to get this glassy, transparent look first and try the J50 & 4627 later if I am unsuccessful. Any suggestions will always be appreciated.