Cissy

Some of you might have already checked this out. Libbey's website shows only three outlets in the US. (1) Shreveport, LA (2) Syracuse, NY and (3) Toledo, OH. For those who live near these areas, it might be worth checking into if you are just planning to sell candles locally & not ship to customers. I don't know their pricing, though.

Thanks nbkfdu4: The nearest Joann's is 2-3 hours from me and I didn't see these on their website. There is a Michael's and an A.C. Moore's less than 15 miles from me in Myrtle Beach. I think I will check both places for something I can use.

Thanks for your suggestions. I forgot to mention these steps. I am watching out for drafts, have even turned down the thermosat so there's no draft at all and keep a very close watch trimming my wicks. I don't know what else to do. With all the talk about J223 and J50 changing, I'm beginning to wonder if I started with these waxes at a bad time. I might have received some of this new (un)improved wax. I think I will just try other waxes before I change jars. I was postponing ordering more of these 2 waxes, but am about out of both, hoping I would receive my sample from Greenleaf before I have to reorder, but I'm going to have to decide very soon if I want to reorder a case(s) of these waxes. First, I am going to try the J50 and J223 in a different straight-sided, no neck type of container & see if I can tell a difference in the dancing flame.

Thanks Kaybee23: I did see the skillets and they are really cute, but I am looking for something not quite as heavy, also that costs not over $1, as I want to include one free w/some low watt warmers I might be ordering (if I can find a metal tray I like that will do a better job than the ceramic bowl). I did see some on some website that has the curled handles, but they cost too much to throw in free with the warmer purchase. What I'm looking for will be hard to find, I'm sure, but if anyone knows of any, please let me know.

For those of you who use this jar and either wax, do you have trouble with a the flames dancing a lot? My 9 oz Hex has a 2" neck opening and a 2.75" jar width. Regardless of whether I use J223, J50, or IGI 4627, various sizes of HTP, cotton, LX, or Zinc wicks, the flame dances too much for me after the first burn or so. Have any of you compared the flame action of this jar to other jars and do you find it doesn't dance around as much in other jars? I have only seriously tested in the 9 oz Hex so far, so can't compare. I need to reorder jars asap, like yesterday, but am having second thoughts about ordering more of the 9 oz Hex. Funny thing is, I never paid enough attention to whether the flame danced around or not in the Home Interior candles I purchased before I started making candles myself. You really notice everything when you start making them yourself. I wanted to use these jars, but am ready to change if it will help slow down some of this "dirty dancing". Don't these flames know they shouldn't be dancing alone? Edited to add: I have tried FO loads of 5% to 8% in these jars/ waxes/wick combos, and it's the same in all...they dance too much regardless of FO %.

Does anyone know a good source, reasonable prices for metal bowls/trays to use on the electric plate low wattage burners. I am looking for some at a low price that I can include with purchase of electric tart burners. I use a tart mold on mine & it throws great I would like to find nicer ones that would work before I order any of the low watt burners. What do you guys think about using metal trays on burners...is there any reason, safety or otherwise, I shouldn't do this?

Thanks....that's kind of what I was thinking myself, but have noticed that a big reputable candle company looks like they are using the 3mm. I ordered a bag of tabs the very first time I called in a wax order before paying any attention to the different neck sizes..just assumed that the supplier I was talking to would sell me the appropriate (best) wick tabs. After noticing the difference, I have just been afraid to use them, just using some 6mm primed wicks, but didn't want to discard them before asking opinions. I'm now thinking of priming some myself to test and re-tabbing with 6mm of the 3mm primed ones I have on hand. Ya know how you are when being a complete newbie and all excited, (still do sometimes)...order more than you need, or anything you think you might need one day, just so you won't have to reorder again and pay more shipping charges. I'm learning quickly to be more selective, ask more questions, and do more research now before ordering.

Donna4909: I wouldn't worry too much about the goldfish if I were you. I ordered some from them, made a couple of small gel (10 oz.) forever candles for myself, and could barely see the gold fish. They are pretty out of box, but clear see-through glass and don't show up well in a gel candle. I would never order any glass embed again that is not a darker color so that it will show up. I also placed an order that did not have the (2) FO samples in box I received...emailed them, rec'd phone call, (which I missed), with a long distance # for me to call back. By the time I paid for a long distance call, it cost me more than the (2) FO's not shipped. I don't know why they couldn't have just emailed me back to begin with. They did credit my card also.

Which wick tab neck heighth, 3mm or 6mm do most of you use for containers ? I believe the taller ones like 9 or 10 mm are primarily used for gel candles. I'm just wondering if most of you find it necessary for safety purposes to use tabs taller than the 3mm. Would like to hear preferences before I reorder.

ScentsandMore: I love the HTP/CD wick comparison chart....wish it could be expanded to include other wicks such as LX...Zinc...Cotton(c's)...Eco...Performas. This would help everyone, especially newbies like me who have purchased a sample wick kit of several wicks to test with. It would also help when you run out of certain wicks (especially for those who need a wick in a hurry) and need an equivalent size. (could save research time)

I didn't elaborate as to why I was asking about the metro wet spots. I really like these jars, love the style. Four months ago, I bought 20 metro style jars from a local dollar store (Mighty Dollar, I believe) for $1 including candle wax. They look exactly like the ones the suppliers are selling. I didn't buy them for the candles & have never burned them (cheap, probably old wax, no scent), but bought them with intentions to melt wax & use for testing. Never got around to it til last week, so I tried one with same J223 batch using Hex jars, warmed all jars in oven, cooled off in oven together. Three days later the Hex jars had a few wet spots. nothing I can't deal with. My dollar store metro jar, which apparently is thicker than yours, AngelaVA (measures 3/16" thickness), not only has wet spots, but wet spots are as if they're magnified, looks from a side angle as if they have gaping holes between the wax & jar...not a typical wet spot only look. That's why I was wondering about these jars before I ordered...if they were the same thickness, of if anyone had tried J223 wax primarily, but you have answered my question. Yours are apparently thinner, and if you are satisfied with the wet spots they have, then I'm sure I will be. You are using J50, though, in these jars, not J223, aren't you, Angela? I just knew I would not be able to sell candles later with the gappy J223 wet spots like the dollar metro jar I tested. I would imagine anyone would comment on gaping looking wet spots like the ones I have in this dollar store jar. I just wanted to know what you guys thought of your jars wet spots. Now I do believe it must have something to do with the thickness and/or the J223 wax in those jars because the wax in the jars when I bought them didn't have gaping wet spots. (didn't look like J223 wax either). I know it had nothing to do with the way I poured/cooled, etc. since I did Hex jars at the same time. Maybe I can salvage these jars by trying another wax, but wanted to make sure the ones everyone is using were not the same jars like I have. Thanks.

Are the metro jars prone to have more wet spots (for J50 or J223 users) than most jars? I am thinking about ordering some to test and believe I read somewhere they are thicker than most and wondered if this would cause wet spots to be more obvious.

I hadn't looked at the ones from Candles and Supplies before....mine are like the ones from JBN which do "poke out" more than CS's. I do like the grooves in those and they look like they would stay in place better than mine. But, now that I have seen the ones from ezywicksystems and haven't already purchased a large stock, I think I will just wait for those to become available. They look like they will be even better than CS's. Edited to add: I just looked at JBN's & they have apparently changed wick bar styles since I purchased mine last September...their current ones are like Lonestar's & Peaks and cheaper than the ones I have.

Thanks everyone for your imput. Top...I was hoping you could give me a scientific reason for not using the Daisy lids. I have used the metal wick bars & didn't really like them much better than the skewers. It is heavier & doesn't slide as easily as the skewers, but it still gets in the way, poking out, and you still have to eyeball it to make sure it's centered, and I had to spread my jars apart further & be careful not to let the bars hit each other. Even with them taut on the wick, they can still move a little if you're not careful. I will check into the ezwicsys.com jar ones. They look much more convenient & accurate, and shouldn't cut the wick in two. I believe they will save time also, when after lots more testing, hopefully, I can start pouring in larger batches. Funnygirl & Moniek...When I start doing Jelly jars, I might try those you suggested from BCN

Thanks for the advice. I want to do this the correct way and not take any chances. I have no problem with doing anything the proper way, when it has been explained to me exactly why I should do it. I was just thinking that most of the testing problems would probably show up a 3rd of the way down or further down in the Hex jars I'm using. The wick does seem to burn better in the top 3rd on the full jars I've done (doesn't dance around as much). My idea was that if it burned good, good melt pool & MP depth, then the top 3rd should be even better. I'm sure you all have seen a whole lot more problems in the top of the jar than I have, since you've tested & burned so many more.

Thanks, Mizbizzyb, for your diplomacy. I searched, but somehow missed that important thread. I am definitely interested in saving money, but not to the extent of leaving out necessary testing steps for a quality candle, or I would have just went ahead & tried it and not asked any questions. Thanks again for directing me to detailed explanations for not doing this.

I have no problem getting my wick centered at bottom of jar. I'm mostly testing now, but have tested a few scents/wicks, etc. that I'm ready to start pouring to give to family & friends as gifts for opinions before I even start to sell. I have used the wooden skewers on a few candles, taping them together, etc. but have still had a couple not 100% centered. I am picky & want them "exactly" centered at the top & bottom. After pouring my candles, I have never put the lids on my Hex jars until they cool. I might test some Jelly jars soon & I'm wondering what would happen if I put a smelly jelly lid with the slots & hole in the center on top as soon as I pour & pull the wick thru the center hole and tighten with a clothespin. I don't have any of these lids, so am not sure exactly how big the hole is except from pictures. Chemically or otherwise, what would it do to the candle while it is still hot, by having one of these lids with the slots on top. Would it affect the curing, wax, or FO, or just steam up the jar? ...just looking for an easier, more stable and accurate way to center wicks at the top, too.

I have been filling my test jars, but am wondering if I can just measure enough wax & FO to test 1/2 to 3/4 filled jars. Is that not the most important testing that needs to be done anyway...all the way to 1/2" from the bottom? This will save money by doing it this way. Is there a reason I should not do this? I don't remember seeing this discussed on the board. I am using the 9 oz Hex jars only for testing at present. Might be a silly question, just want to make sure I'm not missing something important if I do this.

Walmart has a "Good Cook" brand digital scale, I and many others on the board are using....measures up to 5 lbs. in lbs/oz/grams (you can find it in the cooking appliance section). You can also get a great heat gun "Wagner" brand from Walmart, in the paint dept. I kept post-poning getting the heat gun and regret not getting it from the start. I am still in the testing stage, and use it to heat & level my wax each time I pull out an (unanchored) wick to test a new one in the same jar. You might want to post more info such as what size wick you are using, at what temp you are adding FO/dye and temp you are pouring the IGI 4627, so that others (I'm a newbie, too) can assist you.

Nanasnecessities: Are you referring to the 12 watt electric warmers when you said they melt your tarts well or to the tealight warmers? Believe me, I am not just trying to be critical of the EWB 12 watters. Actually, I was very disappointed when I was told by someone who has used one that it does not work well. I don't think the difference is in the tart unless the tart is made of a higher melt point wax than you are using. I really would still like to try only (1) of the 12 watt warmers & (1) of the tealight warmers before buying quantities if someone can sell me one of each (wholesale, of course) or if someone does a co-op on these. Have you used the tealight warmers, also, and what do you (or anyone who has), think of them?

Since my last post, I did rec'v email from Jackel confirming the EWB warmers are 12 watts....what a waste of a product that is so beautiful!! I believe I could have sold customers on these tart warmers who have never used one before..(if they could just do a good job of melting the tarts.) If anyone has found another supplier that has higher wattage electric plate tart warmers that are as beautiful, please post or PM. (Levine's are pretty, but no comparison to Jackel's IMO.) I might still be interested in their tea light warmers in a co-op Has anyone tried these and do they throw scent well and quickly?

JustJackie I would like to add that I really appreciate you volunteering to do this co-op and your effort in doing so. ASA I get a chance, I am going to look at other products by Jackel and see if there is anything else I love as much as I did the EBW electric warmers. I had my heart set on those, and really did pay attention to anything else. Thanks again to you. It's the thought that counts. You did make many of us aware that Jackel does exist. I'm sure they have many other nice products.

This is a shame....only 12 watts, and they are so beautiful. It would take a long time to get a good scent throw, I would think. I think it would be difficult to sell them just to look at and I could not even think about trying to sell a product that won't give a good, fast, scent throw. I also think it would be difficult to sell the cheaper ones to some people because they are not very pretty. If it takes longer than a candle flame does to get a scent throw, I would prefer the candle myself and think maybe some customers would, also. The one I bought from Walmart is 17 watts. It took 1-1/2 hrs before I could smell a jar candle because it melts from the bottom. I tried a tart in a ceramic dish and also in a larger size used metal tart mold I picked up at a flea market (haven't seen this size on any websites). The metal tart mold throws much quicker and does not get hot enough that I think would be dangerous....I burn it quite often. I prefer to use a small tart, 1/2 oz size. I really don't need one any larger in my metal tart mold to get a great scent thow. I find that the Walmart warmer 17 watts, throws much better than any candle (including big name company candles) in my metal container. But, of course, lots of people, at times, want the romantic atmosphere of a candlelight. I think most people would be able to find a place to set the electric warmers out of reach of pets and children if they saw a product that was pretty and functional. I wonder why Jackel didn't produce these electric warmers at a higher wattage. Maybe they would get too hot, being a (sort of closed in) ceramic style. They are losing a lot of business though, by not doing so. I absolutely fell in love with them when I saw them on the web and really just knew I could sell lots of them, but I can't sell anything I wouldn't be satisfied with myself, no matter how beautiful they are. Two days ago, I emailed Jackel, asking how many watts the EBW ones were. She responded to my first email, but failed to mention the watts. I emailed again, she responded by saying they are 100 voltage, but still didn't say how many watts. None of the sites are listing the wattage, so it seems to me, giving this info to the public is being avoided for some reason. Maybe some manufacturer or inventor will read this message board and manufacture what we need......a safe, beautiful, functional, and economical electric metal plate tart warmer (as beautiful as Jackel's). I believe there would be a great market for these, year-round because most people who don't burn candles as much in the warmer months might use these instead during those times.

I need to add that I have been using the max FO amount allowed in all my candles, in both waxes.

I was always under the impression as I've read that the flash point does not really matter or that it won't burn off when you mix and pour at the standard temps for your wax. I have made a batch each of the J50 & the 4627 at suggested temps for melting, mixing and pouring and then curing. The cold throw is OK if I stick my nose in the jars. I'm getting poor hot scent throw. I have changed to various wick styles and sizes. No improvement in hot throw. Now I'm really wondering if there might be something to the temp you mix your FO at based on the flash point. I just assumed I don't know what I'm doing or that I'm just not cut out for candlemaking or that I have a nose problem (Although, I have no problem smelling my tarts). I wanted to get everything working before I even asked someone else to test for me, but maybe I should go ahead & do so for scent throw results only. After reading the above comments regarding flashpoints, I am beginning to wonder if there is something to this. IE, I'm ready to try the WYW Buttercreme Crunch 1/2 oz sample in J223 which has a FP of 104. Can anyone who has tried this combo tell me what mixing & pouring temps work for them? I am getting discouraged and this is my first WYW scent to mix. If this doesn't work, I don't know of anything more concentrated to go to than WYW and might just want to give it up. HELP, PLEASE!