Dawn Blakey

I use an Eco8 in mine and it works great

Thanks for the info but I just realised it's not the 4oz it's the 8oz.

Any suggestions for this one please?????

Dawn

Hello all,

I have just finished a trial of tea lights with soy wax and have found what I think is the best wick... Now I am about to embark on a trial of a 4oz glass hex jar. I will be using soy container wax with essential oil as fragrance. As I have never used this wax before can anyone please suggest which wicks I should start my tests on please. I would be very grateful of your advice.

Regards

Dawn

also have to make sure that the EOs you get are not cut with anything like alcohol. Some places that sell their oils at cheaper prices do so because they way cut the oils so you just have to check.

I have actually called some of these places that sell the EO candles that seem to smell so strong and have found them to really be playing on words when asked about scenting. When I have asked if the scent is 100% EOs the answer I get is usually something like....'well the EOs that we use are 100%'....they just won't say if the "whole" scent comes from EOs or not, only that when they use EOs in candles they are using uncut EOs.....

I never believe anything a manufacturer says about their products.

Hi Rebecca,

Yes that happens a lot with manufacturers with other things like soap as well. They market their bar as 'natural soap containing pure essentail oils' which leads the consumer to think it is fragranced with 100% natural EO's when in reality it is probably 99% FO and 1% EO. Nothing wrong with using FO's incidentally, as long as that is what you market your product as.

Dawn

Hello,

I managed to do a few small test batches, I am not supposed to really as I am still poorly, but, I couldn't wait. I used polycarbonate tea light containers, some pillar blend soy wax and pre-tabbed no. 1 eco-wicks. The wicks burned really well with a lovely bright flame but they tunnelled down and left a ring of wax in the container.

My question is, should I have used container blend soy wax in the tea light containers? Should I have used a Smaller or Larger wick? I am new to to Soy wax.

Thanks

Dawn

I thought this was really interesting research, a little dated, it would be good to see further research, anybody know of any other tests?

http://www.soton.ac.uk/mediacentre/news/2004/june/04_89.shtml

Dawn

It sound like a lot of talk but this is why amomatherapist usually have to be certified. Because there is more room for error in this line. But I tell you if you get just the right blend and mix it with a vegetable wax candle or in a cold processed soap. It is intoxicating. Parafin doesn't throw EO's as well. You will notice alot of aromatherapy candles are vegetable or palm waxes in the big boy brands. And not because of the naturalist's hype going on.

Remember to look up that sight or even get some books.

Good Luck,

Thank you Stacie for your very informative reply. I have taken notes lol...

Best regards

Dawn

Dawn, if you email Atkins and Pearce and tell them the size of the container you plan on using and the wax they will probably ( not sure about their shipping out of country but it's worth a try ) send you some free samples. When I first started out using the palm wax they sent me an incredible amount of free wicks on several occasions, they even called me to discuss my wicking problems and made good suggestions. Excellent company.

I think it's great that you are doing so much research before getting your feet wet so to speak. Once you get started you will be glad you did. I made the mistake of just jumping in head first and ordering at least 15 different waxes, wicks, fo's and tried to do pillars and containers and votives. Spent way too much money and wasted a lot of time. So you are doing it the smart way. Sorry about the surgery enforcing it though.

Thanks Sheila,

That's very helpful advice, I will email the company and ask their advice.

I would normally do what you did, buy loads of different combinations and then PLAY!!!! That's what I did when I started making soap. At least this operation has kept my feet on the ground lol..

Dawn

I would say that a properly wick container candle after a three hour burn would have a complete or almost complete edge to edge melt pool with a depth of at least 1/4" but not deeper than 1/2". It seem to me that soy burns down first then out. If the candle still has some hang up after the thrid burn, I do another test with a wick one size larger. Another key point is how hot the container is to the touch, flame height, and how quickly you get a edge to edge melt pool. I would choose the smallest wick the meets the criteria for melt pool after a 3 hour burn.

Thank you, that's very helpful..

Dawn

-maggie

ps. we're experimenting with different percentages, too - the scent "strength" of eo's seems to vary alot - for example, a redistilled peppermint is much stronger than a "regular" peppermint, which is much stronger than balsam peru, so....we're personally taking each oil and experimenting with it individually. We tend to start around 4 % and then work up from there.

Hi Maggie

That sounds like a fabulous job!! I am looking forward to testing as well when I am recovered and back in the workshop!! I am really looking forward to your results....

Thanks

Dawn

Hey Anne,

Don't burn it, as It's your very first candle, hang on to it as a keepsake! Then when you have your multi-million dollar candle business you can put on display in pride of place!!!!!

Well done. I bet you feel real good (and your hubby too)..

Dawn

Dawn, you may also want to check out the ECO wicks. They are made for soy wax, and I have been hearing some great reviews on them. I ordered some Friday, so I will see how they work for me.

HTH

Brandy

Thanks Brandy, that's very helpful I will definitely look at those when I am better. I look forward to hearing how your results turn out.

Dawn

They look good enough to eat!!

They look really fab... Well done on your first log.

Dawn

Hello, I thought I'd share a pic of my wrapped Lemongrass soap.

I really love looking at everyones pics. You are all so clever!!!!

Dawn UK

Here is a link to the Atkins and Pearce website that shows all the wicks they sell and the melt pools and consumptions rates. It is an indispensable tool for us all.

http://www.wicksunlimited.com/atkins_pearce_htp_wicks.php

You can choose the kind of wicks you want to use and then look and see which one creates the size melt pool appropriate for your container. Takes some of the guess work out of choosing a wick.

HTH's.

Teresa

Thank you so much for that link. I am learning a lot from you guys!!!!

Dawn

Just because you don't use zincs doens't mean your wick will fall over. If you're using tabbed wicks and they are adhered to the bottom of your container, your wicks should stay upright even with a deeper melt pool.

As for your original question, I think both of the above gals are right. Soy tends to burn down a bit, and then out to catch up the sides. The first thing you should do is determine your wick size based on the down then out issue. A 3" container should reach a full melt pool by around 3 hours, BUT this probably won't accur until about the third full burn or so so don't wick up or down until you've gotten that far. You can NOT (IMO) determine proper wick size on the first burn....unless you're seriously under/over wicked. Once you've determined you've got a proper wick size, yes, it's not uncommon with soy to reach deeper melt pools on longer burns. It doesn't necessarily mean you are overwicked, it just means that the heat generated down inside the container is transfering to the glass and is eventually spreading down the glass, thus contributing to the melting. You'll see this especially with tins cuz they heat much more quickly and the heat travels right down the sides. The size of your (properly trimmed wicks) flame is an important factor to determine wick size. HTH.

Thank you so much, the information you have given is very welcome. I did think that ordinary wicks would be ok, but read somewhere that only zinc wicks are suitable for containers. So how does one determine the wick size for a candle when starting from scratch? Is there a universal type of wick? There seem to be so many different types and numbers..... I can get cotton square braided wick locally will this do for pillars and container in soy? The problem I have is that I am in rural UK and it's not easy to get supplies. Ordering from the USA would be great but the import duties make it just far too expensive.

So sorry for the barrage of questions but I am afraid the candle bug has bitten me lol..... this is made even harder by the fact that I am under house arrest at the moment for at least another month Boo hoo...

The only thing keeping my spirits up at the moment is the theory learning...

Thanks again

DawnUK

Those candles are fantastic!!! What type of wick do you use with them?

Thanks

Dawn

The reason I was asking was because if you don't use a zinc core wick in the container and then the wax melts to a liquid, then there is no stability for the wick to remain upright and it could be dangerous. What is the best wick type to use in a Soy only glass container? would it be Zinc or cotton or square braid?

Sorry for all the questions but I am a beginner in both Soy Wax and containers.

Thank you

Dawn

Dawn,

I'm not exactly sure what you mean. If you mean that you are looking at the side of the glass and your melt pool (liquid wax) is 1 inch DEEP, then your candle is definitely overwicked. Ideally, the melt pool should be 1/4 to 1/2" deep at a given amount of time (depends on diameter of container). For my container candles, I am ok with a certain amount of hang up leftover after the first burn. If properly wicked, the hang up goes away after consecutive burns. Others prefer a full melt pool, edge to edge, from the first burn.

Thank you for your comments, yes I was referring to the depth, as you look at the side.

It is normal for an inch of wax to be melted when burning a soy wax container candle. It doesn't mean you are doing anythin wrong or that it is overwicked. The thing to watch for is to see how long it takes to get a full melt pool with the wick you are using. I use wide mouth jars so I expect a full melt pool in 3 hours time. If I don't get it I use a larger (hotter) wick.

Thank you for your comments, I haven't tried making them yet as I am still in the theory stage, (I'm in recovery after an op).

Your comments are interesting, How do you know how long you need to get it to a full melt pool? What is the criteria? I am sorry to appear a bit dense on this but I haven't done any testing yet and I am keen to learn.

Regards

Dawn

Hello all, I was just wondering with a soy wax glass container candle, how much of the wax should melt at any one time. for example, is it possible for the wax to be clear liquid to a depth of an inch or more? or does the wax have to be burned by the wick as it goes which would mean the candle stays solid.

I hope you all know what I am trying to say.

TIA

Dawn

When I was first starting out with BW and testing, I purchased some BW tealights (pillars, votives and tapers actually also) to see how they would burn, thinking that if someone ELSE was doing it they knew what they were doing and how my own candles would measure up - and they WERE in poly cups. The cups did not melt or get overly hot. The problem was, they didn't burn right either because they were wicked too cool. Half of the wax was left. Some of them even went completely out after a very short amount of time (<30 minutes).

In order to burn BW you need a hot flame and a wick that won't get clogged up in a very viscous wax like BW. I never liked how hot my teas or votives got when done with pure BW, so I quit making them and use soy for those - real easy to burn in the tealight cups and real easy to clean out of the votive holders. Guess I'm just flakey in that I'm paranoid about things getting too hot.

Give your BW a try and see how hot your cups get after you narrow down your wicking. Power burn them - light em and let them burn completely out. If you are comfortable with them that is what mattes. If you are coloring the BW I can see wanting to use the plastic cups, but I don't color them so to me, its not a big deal (I do like the looks of the plastic cups though). Reminds me, I have heard others just glue in wicks or put them in tabbed after the wax starts setting up - but I take the long way and use 15mm wick stickums and 15mm tabs. I don't mind a thin layer of wax wasted at the bottom if it means the cups won't melt or the wicks float around.

Wish there were more BW candle-makers to share - so let us know how your testing goes!

HTH

Thank you Henry,

Your comments are very well thought out and very wise, I will *eventually* do some experimenting and will report back.

Thanks again.

Dawn

They look Fantastic. Well done!!

Dawn

I hope you'll share your results once you develop your candle line. I've been wanting to find time to experiment with EO's too. Good luck and hope you have a speedy recovery.

Linda

Thank you Linda, I will...

Dawn

Thank you all so much for your replies. I do want to go for the natural market. In the UK there is a big demand for this at the moment and so I was thinking of natural waxes with natural fragrances. I buy EO's in bulk for my natural soaps so the expense isn't an issue with me just the effect/danger aspect of E/O's in Candles. I am certified for safe use in CP Soaps but this is a totally different ball game to candles. I can't wait to get testing but am on 'House arrest' at the moment recovering from a hysterectomy. Thank heavens for the internet otherwise I would be board to tears lol....