RMFrase

I can sympathize with you regarding your apparent but suprising lack of sales. Looking at the photos, (and wishing you had close-ups,) from what I can see you do amazing work! I too have had booths set up and had some of my best work there - but sold mostly votives. The amount of money made didn't cover the booth cost, and the people making a 'killin' were either selling paintings and jewelery. Since packing them everything back up was difficult, even shifting gears and reducing items didn't help much either. Buyers are funny that way - and very difficult to predict buying trends. Wishing you all the best next time.. -Robert http://www.robertfrase.com/My%20Candles.htm

The basic process is along the line of Millefiori. But years ago, after watching a program about a Japanese or Chinese Taffy (don't remember which) I was awestruck as to how they started with these layers of multi-colored (and thick) taffy that they rolled like playdoh into ever longer length. The end result was the same design as the initial process - only smaller. about the size of a quarter. They would then cut it, and each "face" of had a different facial expression based on the amount of pressure that was exerted on that particular section. I then went into the back room and took some of the cut-n-curl wax and poured many thin layers of wax into a plyable container that would allow me to remove the still soft/warm wax. After getting this, I then cut it in half and flipped it. With it still soft and warm, I twised and warped it. Using a slicer I cut it into thin sheets. I then wrapped it around a ball candle... I used this same process for making Peppermint stick piller candles.. Regards. Robert http://www.robertfrase.com/My%20Candles.htm

see below ... i hit enter too soon.

The basic process is along the line of Millefiori. But years ago, after watching a program about a Japanese or Chinese Taffy (don't remember which) I was awestruck as to how they started with these layers of multi-colored (and thick) taffy that they rolled like playdoh into ever longer length. The end result was the same design as the initial process - only smaller. about the size of a quarter. They would then cut it, and each "face" of had a different facial expression based on the amount of pressure that was exerted on that particular section. I then went into the back room and took some of the cut-n-curl wax and poured many thin layers of wax into a plyable container that would allow me to remove the still soft/warm wax.

I have looked at the photos and have made candles simular to this style in the mid 90's, but did not take any photos of them :embarasse I'll post the process as soon as I can. But I self-taught myself how to do this after watching a program years ago, but with a different medium. It was one of those lightning strike kinda things...... I was still smoldering for a few days there after that one... Regards, Robert http://www.robertfrase.com/My%20Candles.htm

After using the wax for the day, I carefully took the vats out of my (2) 55-gallon drum boilers and poured them into large - disposable, but heavy gauge aluminum foil roasting pan. The link I'm providing here is NOT what I used. But is similar to the disposable aluminum pans that I used. They were inexpensive. http://tinyurl.com/mponq Mine was quite large and when I poured, I filled them about 1/2 - 2/3rds way up so that when it became time to break the wax, it was not hard at all. I didn't always pre-melt the wax. I normally placed the wax slabs in a box large enough, and took a hammer to break them up. I then placed the chunks into the vats. Which I then placed into my melting tanks. However, there were times that I used a double boiler and melted some additional chunks in a pouring pot I purchased from either Pourette or the (no-longer in business) Barkers. Both were located in Washington State. I then poured the hot wax into the vats that contained the chunks to help melt them. If your going to use your stove, which I do not recommend, I would advise you to place something like this at the bottom. http://tinyurl.com/mjc3x It adds extra protection from the direct heat of the bottom of your pot. Water is allowed to circulate and keep the vat below the boiling point. You never want your wax above 180 (my opinion) And if your melting it for carving, no higher than about 8 - 10 degrees above the melting point. (But I haven't carved in 10 years.) If your wax is too warm past that point, you will re-melt off your wax layers you just added. My system comprised of (2) 55-gallon drums that previously carried Non-hazardous liquid chemicals. I believe in my case, they had once carried corn syrup. There was a metal grate that I made, from slotted angle irons that I purchased from the "Home Depot." hardware store. I used the heating coils used in Hot-water tanks to make the hot water. I used a 220volt line. A 120 can also be used, but it takes longer to heat up. I used standard electrical (and electrically grounded) on/off switch system similar to a light switch on a wall. I used a Thermal Cut-Off switch rated to 165 degrees. Therefore I could heat the water to at least 160. If it got hotter, it would automatically shut-off. I also insulated the tanks to help keep them warm. Kind of like a blanket, but was made with Insulation that had a thin white plastic sheet on the outside, so that the fiberglass stayed on the inside. I also installed a (outside type) brass faucet for draining the tanks when needed. Each tank held (6) color vats with clear non-colored wax in the middle. I'm in the process of adding construction plans/parts list in the booklet I have available at my website. http://tinyurl.com/nph6h TinyUrl is not my website. But is a process by which anyone can place long URL Links into emails to make it easy for people to use. My actual website is http://www.robertfrase.com Let me know if you have any other questions I may answer. Sincerely, Robert

You have 2/3rd of the sample you need for the 1.5pp. 1.5 oz per pound, but you have 1 oz. (3) .5 oz = 1.5oz (2) .5oz = 1.0oz For 1.5pp you would take 16oz and divide by 3. Which equals 5.33oz. (2) 5.33oz = 10.66 oz That would make your 1.5pp recipe. -Regards Robert Frase

I've been in several locations, and from the replys you've received - are great ones! 1) Location, Location, Location 2) You stock it, keep it clean 3) They pay the taxes, and you get a check. Some are monthly, others may be different. 4) Important! --> Keep your Expensive items up high - as little fingers can do a great deal of damage and not pay for it. 5) Did I menchion Location? 6) How long has the place been in business? Do they advertise? Are they well known? 7) Package / Shrink-wrap what you can. 8) Be Professional. Look at what others do. See how the items are presented/boxed/labeled. -Regards Robert Frase http://www.robertfrase.com/My%20Candles.htm

I too have had this same experience - several times. I once had a leaking vat lose about 10lbs of melted wax as the bottom section just fell off while I was taking it out of my tank. One of the first things that I personally learned the hard way is to never allow the wax to harden inside the vats. This puts tremendous pressure on the solder welds along the sides and at the bottom. Just as Ice freezes it can expand and burst a rock, wax shrinking can pop the welds loose and allow leakage. Since wax is lighter than water, you may not know it immediately as your vat of color looks full - only to be filled with water underneath a layer of wax. Since solder has a much lower melting point as compared to other metals, 375* for a 60/40 solder, make sure you vat never comes into direct contact with the sourse of heat. Even if the vat is in a water tank, and the source of heat is at the botom, do not allow the vat to sit directly on the bottom of your tank (that holds the water) as the heat will transfer to your individual vats. It is imperative that you have several inches of (water) clearance between the bottom of your wax vat and the source of heat. Also, I learned to solder or replace the vats periodically by marking them with a perminate marker before using them. I marked the date of 1st use as I placed them into the vat. Personally, I tried to find a welder/metal worker who could make for me vats that were not made from thin sheet metal, but something stronger. But I could not locate anyone in my area at the time. Once I put my new shop back together, I'm going to be sure to have the vats custom made. The tanks that I built myself, utilized (2) 55 gallon insulated drums with a replacable heating sourse, and thermostat-trip (for overheating.) Also, the vats were elevated from the bottom by a metal grate that I also built. So, the vats were at least a foot from the heat source. I'm so glad you and your husband were not hurt. I wasn't so fortunate - but was not seriously hurt. Sincerely, Robert http://www.robertfrase.com/My%20Candles.htm

I too had tried using metallic pigmants in my work. And I had the same difficulties due to the opaqeness of the wax. Golds never looked Gold. And by increasing the amounts of the metallic flakes into the wax, only made carving difficult at best as it prevented wax adheasion. However, it did work well as an overdip. But due to the nature of the flakes, it would clog the wick. I've included a shortened link to the supplier I used in the 90's. http://tinyurl.com/q8r6l Sincerely, Robert http://www.robertfrase.com/My%20Candles.htm

Just came across this site and thought I'd register. Since I'm currently living in an apartment in Ft. Worth, I plan to re-start my business of carving and candle making soon. The link below is to my website - showing among my previous candlework. http://www.robertfrase.com/My%20Candles.htm There are several pages of photos. Some were photos of my early work and as I progressed. Regards, Robert