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Arg...thought I'd gotten a great single wicked 4" apoth....


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... with a cd 20. (cb135, cranberry marm. from cs 1.25oz) Smells great, fills up my whole upstairs. After the 5th 4-5 hour burn test, I had a full melt pool. Hardly any residue on the sides.

Unfortunately, on the 6th and 7th, it has started tunneling and no longer reaches a full mp. My wick is very straight, I twisted it before I poured my wax, but for some reason is now, halfway down, favouring one side of the jar. (it is halfway down already because I started this one double wicking with 12's, but must not have done it right b/c the jar got waayyyy to hot and I had a good 1/2" mp after 30mins!!) :(. Back to the drawing board with a 22. I will get this right!!!

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so the 20 might be okay? I just have to twist it after I put it in? (don't mean to sound stupid, but is there a difference of twisting it before or after, Stella?) - perhaps I'm twisting too much/not enough.

I dunno - I didn't see the candle ;) You DO know that if the melt pool or wick isn't centered, you can adjust its position so that it will burn correctly?

I dunno about twisting before sticking... seems like it's be kinda hard to make it stay that way... I twist after I have adhered the sustainer base to the bottom of the container and have found that, as so many people suggested before me, the twist causes the wick to burn in a circle rather than in one position, so the burn evens out. Whether doing that would change needing to wick up or not, I have no idea.

(it is halfway down already because I started this one double wicking with 12's, but must not have done it right b/c the jar got waayyyy to hot and I had a good 1/2" mp after 30mins!!)

Ummm does this mean you burned part of the jar with double wicks, pulled them and inserted a 20 for the rest of the way? Because, if so, your results would not be accurate anyway if the 12s had burned much out of the container...

If this were me, I'd pour a new one with a 22, twist the wick and burn it all the way to the end. If it seems too hot, you can always go back to the 20.

Another thought: when the candle began tunnelling, did the wick seem clogged, and was the flame as high as before?

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yeah, I knew I wouldn't have an accurate test but thought I could at least figure out if the 20 would be a good wick. To me the wick doesn't seem clogged, it is just not getting to the edge of one side, even though it looks perfectly straight to me. (it is leaving a 1/2" on one side). I thought it would be easier to get a full melt pool towards the end of such a big apothecary because the heat would be contained more as the wax got lower in the jar.

Oh, so much to learn.

I am waiting for more wicks to come in the mail - just called the supplier I bought them from today and although they were shipped on March 3rd, she looked it up and they just were approved thru customs yesterday. Yes, USPS seems to be cheaper for shipping to Canada, but wow, that's a long time.

I still have a few 22's from a sample pack, so that's my job for tomorrow. As I stated in another post, my mother-in-law is visiting for 2 weeks, and has oh-so-many good tips for me raising my baby... needless to say I need a night out so my dh is taking me to dinner and a movie tonight. ;)

thanks for the reply...

jan

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What does it mean if it is doing this? Thanks

Antonia

What it would mean to me is that if the wick is clogging, it might be the FO or I might wanna use a treated wick... ;)

it is just not getting to the edge of one side, even though it looks perfectly straight to me. (it is leaving a 1/2" on one side).

To which side is the wick curling? The side away from the hangup? The side the wick curls to is hotter then the other side...

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This is a perfect reason as to why testing is needed from top to bottom. what may seem like a perfect burn to begin with, can totally bomb near the end (if even that far).

You've discovered the bane of a chandlers existence.......single wicking a large apoth. jar. Welcome to the club.

I sincerely doubt a CD-20 will work. But as mentioned, there are a ton of factors. The difference when you get down into the jar is the lack of oxygen, and the 'current' of heat created (and trapped) down inside the jar.

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I personally don't think it is possible to get a proper burn in this size diameter jar and one wick with soy - especially when you add in color and FO. IMO it is better to DW. I am in the process of testing several jars to see if it can be done with one wick. I will post my results when I am done.

If you have ECOs, try DW'ing with 2 10's and adjust from there.

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