Rachael

Good to know I just received an email about an end of year sale going on now ... 

No worries always glad to help if I can

I melt the wax, (it will already be melted when I render it) scent it and pour it is a clamshell or a votive mold with a wick, correct? Can anyone reccommend a wick size (for a votive) or type and tell me the best place to get them?

That is right and I used #2 square braided wicks when I did Beeswax votives and about 1oz pp of Fo .

as for coloring you can just remember the wax is already yellow so it may take a bit more dye to make up for that.

HTH

I found a converter that uses drops

http://www.megaconverter.com/mega2/

havent gone through them all but have a look

HTH

Just scroll down to kitchen measurements ( converter on the left ) in the drop down thingie

Wowsers look at that pie

They all look great but that pie makes me hungry .

Wow things must have changed I will go to the site and have a look see because the chart I printed out stops at LX22 and it says good for Large containers or pillars aprox 4-4.5 inches in diameter.

I use the 18 or 20 on my 3" diameter pillars depending on the FO/color ( I still color my pillars) anyhoo I will hop on over to have a look see .

Wicks are the ultimate evil LOL

Okie Dokie things have are different lol

seems they have dropped the recommended sizes by one or two sizes

when they added the 24 - 30 wicks . But as I like to have a bit of a wall to contain the melted wax on my pillars I will wait to retest LOL here we go again LOL .....

It was just a blah blah talking with friends.

Here every people know(or will learn) how to work with the wax they use, and I will do the same.

You are correct Cybersix this is all the thread was , and there really is'nt anything for you to be sorry about.

As far as the LX wicks go I went and looked back over my notes

and found that back then they only went up to 22 but like I said that was when I first started 6 years ago so I am sure somethings have changed . But now that I think on it I used them to make pillars mostly AFTER I switched to HTP for containers . Forgot about that since I do mostly containers now and only the pillars on request.

Anyhoo hope this helped ya some and feel free to voice any other

opinions/results you have in the future.

Goose...fra...ba

Nope no typo and I printed it right off the website but that was when I first started making candles and havent gone back to see if it had changed as I have switch to using HTP wicks and they work for me so I stick with them.

Having to wait to pour at around 100 is torure enough if I had to do it twice or what ever for each batch of candles I know I would go nuts and say the heck with it .

Wow

I have to agree Islandgirl no sense doing buisness with someone if you have to make sure nothing is slipped in on the sly.

Just curious why they would conduct buisness like this anyway , They would have to know someone is going to get tick off about it at some point and word of mouth will spread and there goes thier customers.

I cant see how it would be worth it to them to align themselves with a setup like this .

For my 3" diameter containers I used the LX18 which is said to be good for 3.5" to 4" .But I have since switched to HTP .

There will be a little left on the sides which catches up as the candle burns down .

From what I have read unless it says different the recommended container size for wicks is generally for paraffin wax and you must go up one size if you use soy or veggie or even Beeswax, although more than likely higher still for Beeswax. been there done that got frustrated switch to soy

HTH

I don't have sistematically ugly tops after burning them. Sometimes when tehy cool down they are fine, then after another burn I can see some flaws, then not.. all in the same candle. Weird!!

Absolutely ! LOL and then there are some that never look bad

It is just the nature of the beast But everyone I have given/sold candles to have never had a problem with that after I tell them that is just how soy is .

But like I said I never temper it, I heat to the required temp then pour at the required temp and move on

But I have to say since going dye free my wicking life is so much easier

Hey Cyber,

I use KYpure soy for container and have never tempered it .

I get nice tops as well when poured at the right temp as for being ugly that happens after you burn the candle and it sets back up * for me anyway*

As for frosting I would get that if I tried for a dark color but I have since gone to no dye in my containers.

Grats on the house Jen and the store !

Wow congrats Spacegirl that is awesome !

Will send positive energy your way to help you with colors and testing !

that is just too cool !

If you mean containers I use the tins for LBs from MMS very easy to fill and customers love them .

Didnt see the regular tins in the poll , or the poll for that matter LOL

The higher you hold the container of colored soap from the main batch as you pour the further down into the batter it goes , and the closer you hold it the more it stays on top

Hope the made sense ! :embarasse

I got mine from A Garden Eastward .

But like I said hubbie was way to impatient so it may have been to warm to soap any FO LOL

He kept bugging me * is it ready yet* * is it ready yet * LOL

Men.... just like lil boys sometimes LOL

The F&M may be the bad guy I let hubbie try to make a batch of soap and he loves this scent in candles so we added it and it started to seize then went to rice pudding , I beat it to death with SB and plopped it in to the mold , next morning it was seeping oil so I rebatched it in crock pot .

Also he didnt have the patience to wait for cooler temps so it may very well move a lil slower if soaped cooler.

Soap looks great! I have been itching to try a salt bar .

FCO: fractionated coconut oil

Although I have never used it or made a body spray so I can't answer your other questions .

Hopefully some one who has will pop in here

Hubbie and I are finally putting up cabinets and shelves in our work room , Its going to be awesome haveing a place for every thing .

You know I have been toying with this Idea myself ,after reading this I am convinced . Thanks everyone !

Unless I am way off all the soy wax is either all soy or a soy veggie mix except of course the para/soy mix .

I get my soy from Kentucky Candle Wax Supply

I am not sure what you mean by genetically modified but I am sure all wax has to go through some type of process to become wax except beeswax of course which is already wax but still has to be cleaned then of course there is the white beeswax....

I went to the custom wick builder on Candlewics site to get some made , That seemed easier to me than measuring,cutting and attaching the base myself . although you have to get 500 at a time it was still worth it to me.

The #2 I used for votives and the #3 I used for 3 inch containers

I havent gone over a 3 inch container .

They have a wick info page on thier site as well you may find useful

HTH

I have both the #2 and #3 , the #3 I used for any container over 2 inches.

But see what Bills reply is he may have more recommendations.