Jump to content

Gbhunter

Registered Users Plus
  • Posts

    299
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Gbhunter

  1. Cool. Thank you. It seems the Eco 6 will be the wick. Currently I do not have any FO. How does stirine help FO load?

    On a separate issue is there a way to slightly soften palm wax? Currently the only wicks that work for me is 42 ply (kind of thick shell) 45 ply (thin shell).

    Also could someone tell me how palm pillars are sopposed to burn? Are holes in the shells normal? Or is it a sign of a wick that is too large?

  2. Well its been a bit of time since I have been here. Unfortunately I had to battle a life threatening illness. But im back.

    I do have some questions though.

    I have 8 oz jars that are about 2.25 in diameter. I use straight soy. I tried Eco 4 wick and it seem to not be big enough it tunnels.

    So herevare the questions.

    A. Does eco 6 seem too big for said jar? It leaves a sort of deep pool but no hang ups and the flame is nice nice.

    B. Do you guys twist the wicks? Especially the ones that curl.

    C. How hot is too hot for a jar to be?

    D. Does adding FO cause wick size to go up?

    E. What does a wax coating on the wick do vs a raw wick?

    I use soy-125 from Candlewick to it I add about 8% palm styrine.

    Thank you .

    • Like 1
  3. This is what I currently get when I burn the candles. These are wicked fairly well and are 3x8 pillars.

    I do not get that wonderful glow but due to the darkness in the photo that shows a glow in the candle(from the above threads) it may be caused by long a exposure. I get no scent throw, I use palm steric(1 tbls) to allow mold release, I will dial this down and see how snug the candle will be. 20131230_164758.jpg

  4. I have been fighting with this wax. I have tried just about every wick. RRD,HTP,CD, Stabillo,Cotton core,square,LX and flat braid. The only one that seems to burn OK is the 45 ply wick, but the flame is rather large and it tends to soot. I will describe how I make my candles.

    I use 675 mg of feathered palm wax, 1 tbls of palm steric, liquid dye about 16 drops, and 27 mg of F /O. The pour temp is about 210°F. It is poured into an aluminum mold that is 3x6. I do use a wick pin. Can anyone see what maybe wrong? :confused:

    Its not mg it is grams I'm sorry.

  5. I make 70% soy-125 and 30% 4144 paraffin wax. I use a 2 tsp of steric in a 12oz jar(its wider in the middle then on top or bottom). I cannot find a good wick. I get hang up on the edges or the jar gets very hot :angry2: . I tried beeswax instead of paraffin but got into the same problem. I use a 5% F/O load. Any suggestions? The beeswax is so expensive that even 30% is not practical.

  6. I have been fighting with this wax. I have tried just about every wick. RRD,HTP,CD, Stabillo,Cotton core,square,LX and flat braid. The only one that seems to burn OK is the 45 ply wick, but the flame is rather large and it tends to soot. I will describe how I make my candles.

    I use 675 mg of feathered palm wax, 1 tbls of palm steric, liquid dye about 16 drops, and 27 mg of F /O. The pour temp is about 210°F. It is poured into an aluminum mold that is 3x6. I do use a wick pin. Can anyone see what maybe wrong? :confused:

  7. Now that inductive cooktops are available are they good too use to heat wax? They claim to have very accurate temperature control. Has anyone tried these?

    I'm sure these stove tops screw up electronics near by. It is an EMF after all. Also I have not heard good things about EMF exposure, but these are new so most likely there is no data available yet on health issues. But i digress back to my original question.

×
×
  • Create New...