mappam

I have used these molds for CP and M&P with no problems....

The "secret" I found is to take the soap out of the mold before it sits too long. Take them out as soon as the soap has hardened enough to be firm. I do not put them in the freezer - just let them cure at room temp until firm.

Then I put my thumbs on the long side of the bar and push - so the bars "rotate" out of the mold. Sometimes you have to push in a different spot so the bars release. The bars will sometimes have a "suction" that seems to hold them in the mold - once this is broken the bars will slide out.

hope that made sense??

With the M&P I do coat them first with oil and sometimes I do get "thumb prints' on the top/flat side of the bar. My M&P is softer than my CP.

Hope that helped?

Thank you all SOO much!

I do now wonder if it is just the "low sweat" base that I am using vs the other types?

I have a rack where I let all my soap cure. I pour into the molds then when it is removed from the mold I place the bars on this coated wire rack (so air flows all around) and let the bars cure for at least a week before I wrap them.

I wrap my finished bars in "Sam's wrap" - plastic wrap from Sams or Wal-mart that stretches).

Jazz - I am only adding 7 ml of FO to a pound of base - that seems to be the magic number for "not too much/not too little".

Should I cure longer?

Also - what dye have you guys found to be the best that doesn't 'bleed' into the other layers.

Thanks again

Thanks for the replies - No - nothing added except color and FO. No extra oils etc.

I use to make CP and because of - well lots of reasons I went "back" to M&P.

I have been using the SFIC base - but it is so soft that the bars do Not last very long. I just read about Wisterial Lane = Hard Bars - anyone tried this base? How does this base compare to SFIC for lather and over all feel?

Also - what colorants do you use? I am finding that what I am using tends to "bleed" into the other colors if I layer or swirl.

The SFIC base - I do let the bars 'cure' and have been using the Low Sweat base (I am in Florida so this is almost a given!)

Thank you in advance for any and all information and tips/hints you can provide.

Because they are all exactly the same shape I would think it is a "Flexi-Mold" (silicone) that is used??

I started my soap making with MP - then went on to CP. After a loss of power from a hurricane where I lost all of my curing CP and almost all of my oils went rancid - I went back to MP!

I just could Not afford to replace all of the oils (some were in the big "drums"), I couldn't find the lye anymore and it broke my heart to have to throw away all the ruined curing soap.

I find that with the MP I can get a little more creative and I do NOT need as many ingrediants on hand. So if (when?) we suffer from another extended power loss - I will Not loose all of my investment.

And - TeeHee - my DH likes the feel and lather of the MP BETTER than my CP! Go figure - crips - men;)

I want to see what others have found to be Strong Throwers in 100% Soy container candles.

I have tested lots and lots of different FO's and this is my list of "Keepers" so far:

Candle Cacoon = Sultry Angel

KY Candle = Blackberry Sage, Christmas Past, Vineyard

Bluegrass = Smell Stopper, Lavender/Apple/Oak, Blackberry Sage, Spiked EggNog

WSP = Clean Laundry, Bergomot Mandrin

SoS = Honey Dew Melon

Just Scent = Mojito Cocktail

I pour most at 6% as a start point and adjust as needed - all of the above are Fantastic at the 6%.

I have been using the Peak Cotton Wicks and EL 100% Soy (not millenium but the regular).

Pour cloudy/slushy

Wait mininum 24 hours for burn

I have some samples from all of these companies that I have either not poured yet or have not gotten the Throw I want for a Strong Throw.

Please add your list - I need to add more fragrances to my line so want to see what you have found.

Thanks:)

TeeHee Michi - I CAN"T be the first one to try them - you see - umm - I am Bath Bomb Imparred:embarasse

Well - in my defense - I live in Florida - you know all that heat and humitidy to deal with - where you get the Growing Bombs - they start out the size of a golf ball and end up like a basketball - you know the ones I am talking about?

Has anyone tried to make the Shower "bombs" for a stuffy nose? I looked at the package at the pharmacy and noted the ingrediants - but thought I would ask here before I tried making my own.

Are they basically the same as a "Bath Bomb" only you let it melt in the shower? (using the menthol type fragrances)?

Thanks again Beth - I found some and will give this a try.

Thanks Beth - where do you get them? Great advice about the gauge - I sure don't need anything that will be persnickty - lol.

Okay - what is CT and the Whisk??

I make a spray and use the aluminum bottles - I have been putting tape over the labels and started thinking about using Shrink Tube material instead. The tape does Not look very professional and I sometimes get wrinkles

Does anyone do this? What size do you use and where do you get it.

I did a search and found lots of "Top Protectors" and that isn't what I am looking for. I need something longer/bigger/taller to fit over most of the bottle.

Thanks so much in advance for any and all info you may be able to provide.

I have had good luck with the Bergomot & Manderin from WSP.

My sample is due on Tuesday and I can't wait to try this scent! It sounds great.

Okay this may be a really Dumb Question - but why are you using FO and not EO?

I have NOT tried using Lavender EO in a candle - is there some reason it Does NOT work?? Does it morph or something weird:shocked2:

I recently started using Peaks Cotton Wicks. I have been very pleased with the results in my EL (regular) wax.

I do sometimes get some mushroom(ing) but this does Not seem to effect the MP or the throw.

I save all my "food jars" (like pickles and speg sauce) - clean them really well in dishwasher.

I then add a wick (have to use educated guess here on size) and keep it handy. I pour all my "old" wax into this jar - so I get some funky layers - but they are Super for me to burn and Awesome if you loose power and need light in a dark bathroom etc.

Thank you for the reply - I can't wait to try this!

And SmellyWax - I think it may be the liquid dye - I have some that smell SOOO "petrolium Oily" I can hardly stand them - then I have some that have NO smell at all.

Awesome Chris! Super looking candle!!

How are you doing them? Is there a thread with directions?

That old wax from your testers - here is what I do with it:

I save my old jars - pickle jars are super -

Wash well and remove label -

When I test my testers I do Not stick the wick (just do as above and pock a hole for size testing) - SO there is NO metel base - and this jar can now go into the microwave for melting the left-over wax.

When this is melted I pour into the Pickle Jar.

I will get interesting layers and fragrances - but I use these finished candles for "hurricane" candles = when we loose the power during hurricane season here in FL.

Perfect to be able to let them burn in the bathroom and not worry about fire - and I can now see my way. I can also just let them burn in a dark room (while I am awake) and not have to turn on any lights to find the potty

It doesn't matter to me if I have "bits" in them as they are just for me. But I don't feel I am thowing away perfectly good wax.

TeeHee - I have even given some to family and friends as they liked the idea and the interesting look.

Bluegrass Candle is awesome. I can pour most of these FO's at 6% and get a very strong hot/cold throw. Also Candle Cocoon has some very strong and unique scents.

Yes Henryk - I have played a little with these wicks now and found:

EL Soy - (not millenium but reg)

4oz Hex = C-70 to C-75 Depending on FO

8oz Mason (short squat one) C-80 or C-75 Depending on FO

4 oz frosted "glasses" (Target sells these in packages of 8) C-70 to C-75

I did find that there is a difference with the FO used - but this is the range (so far anyway:yes: )

I heard back from Peak and C70 was suggested for a 2.5" container. So that is a starting point.

Thank you all so much for the replies!

I ordered a sample pack of there Cotton Core wicks and I can NOT find a guide or chart for a starting point. I need to have some idea what size wick for what size container = Soy Wax.

Anyone have some clues?

I wrote to Peak two days ago and have not gotten any response - and I need to start testing these.

Thanks in advance for any and all responses!