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crystal80

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Posts posted by crystal80

    I tried RTCP

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    Palm oil and PKO are different. One way to play with different oils is to go to soapcalc and enter just palm oil, 100%. Look at the numbers and see what they do, then change it to 100% pko and see the difference. Do this with many different oils and you'll start to learn more about the properties.

    Have you read this? How to build a soap recipe

    Bunny posted that several years ago and it is quite helpful.

    I just read it, and it is great information. Thank you all so much.

    I will see how my soap will come out in 4 weeks and let you all know.

    I tried RTCP

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    Thank you for all that information Supa Star.

    I thought PKO was not too different from PO. I have done so much reading and still so much too learn. Like I said it was too late by the time I learned how to use soapcalc.

    Do I trash the soap?

    Thank you again for the information. I think I am going to be a little more careful with my experiments for now on.

    I tried RTCP

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    I know that I am a newbie, but I like experimenting, hey, why not? just once in blue moon.... It was blue yesterday.....

    Not only did I tried RTCP, but I also made my own recipe *hiding*

    and I used a 3" pipe :(, puff, puff...

    My main complaint is that the soap is a little soft to the touch. I added one teaspoon of sodium lactate to the lye (I read it suppose to make soap harder).

    The process was fine, I am wondering if my recipe was whack. I was trying to use the soapcalc, but couldn't quite figured out. Now after patiently taking a look at it, I know how to work it out, little late.

    this is part of what I did with it: 19 oz. of aloe vera juice

    7.3oz. lye

    1 teaspoon of sodium lactate, 1.9 oz fo

    #√Oil/Fat%PoundsOuncesGrams 1Almond Oil, sweet3.920.125256.6992Avocado Oil3.920.125256.6993Castor Oil5.880.188385.0484Coconut Oil, 76 deg23.530.7512340.1945Olive Oil17.650.5639255.1466Palm Kernel Oil/Flakes23.530.7512340.1947Safflower Oil17.650.5639255.1468Shea Butter3.920.125256.699 Totals1003.188511445.825 transparent.gif

    Hardness 29 - 54 42 Cleansing 12 - 22 30 Conditioning 44 - 69 51 Bubbly 14 - 46 35 Creamy 16 - 48 17 Iodine 41 - 70 62 INS 136 - 165 148 Lauric 22 Myristic 8 Palmitic 9 Stearic 3 Ricinoleic 5 Oleic 28 Linoleic 17 Linolenic 0

    POP colors and CP soap?????

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    OK got my POP colors from Dirtybird's co-op and now I need to know HOW to use them....they are the powdered colors...do you just sprinkle into raw soap till you get the color you want or do you mix in carrier oils?? HELP....please....

    :confused: This subject is new to me, I am fairly new to this forum. Could you please inform me about Dirtybird's co-op.

    Thank you,

    EMP

    My sencond batch, I don't know if is going to work.

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    I decided for now on, to make only small batches.

    I made this batch, and everything was ok until I added the FO (Dragons Blood) my DH favorite smell. Now my hands smell like it.

    As soon as it went into the mixture started setting up. I tried to work really fast and transferred it to the mold. Will the soap be any good?

    What should I do when I am in this situation again? Should I just put the FO in the mix and use a spoon instead of the mixing stick?

    You know, I have done a lot......... of reading. Is not like I am just asking questions. I even bought to books. I just want soap.........:(

    I think I did something wrong

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    :yay: I did it !!! Thank you..

    I rebatched my soap, and it came out great. I didn't use the oven with the bag, I just read that message. I will try that one if this ever happens again. Your soaps texture on top are not as wavy as mine.

    I used the double boiler. A lot of work, but I am happy. I cut the soap (I need to learn how to cut soap) but I am learning. Now I am looking forward to make another soap. Yes!!!!!:cheesy2:

    I think I did something wrong

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    No, it didn't absorb anymore. It looks like when grease gets cold and changed to a paste color. I can tell that the rest of the block its hard, but that the layer on the top is liquid.

    And I just remember that I forgot to use distilled water. I used water from my faucet (duh!) for the lye. My recipe had goats milk, and honey. The more I read, I start to understand what went wrong. I just don't know what to do with this soap.

    I think I did something wrong

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    Hi,

    I found this information about my little error:

    http://www.aromacreations.com/troubleshooting1.html

    Separation: This becomes apparent after you have poured your soap into the mold. A significant layer of oil or grease sits on top of the mixture. If the layer of oil is thin, it's probably caused by the essential oils and will be reabsorbed during the curing process. If the layer is thick, you have a caustic soap that should be discarded.

    I believe this is what Meridith was talking about, but mine is not getting reabsorbed so far. Caustic soap? Did I put too much lye? I used the lye calculator. Do I need to throw mine away.

    It smell so good.....:rolleyes2 arg.....

    I think I did something wrong

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    Hello,

    Soooo... finally I made the soap (getting over this cold). Everything looked fine during the process. I took a look today at the soap this morning, and the one in the wood mold have a big puddle of oil on top. The one in the 6 soap plastic mold (like a candy mold) looks fine, the little leftover that I put in the Dixie cup looks fine as well.

    Why is it that the big wood mold looks like a bath of oil? I made it yesterday around noon time, Eastern Time.

    boohooo............:confused:

    What's superfatted?

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    So, as long as I make good use of the calculators, I'll be fine!

    I am starting with a small batch, trying to cover all my bases here.

    It's a little nerve wrecking to do your first batch. I am not scared to deal with the lye, just the thought of failing at my first attempt.

    I think Monday is going to be a good day to do it. Nobody is going to be home.

    Thank you for your help :)

    Adding milk at trace?

    in General Soap Making

    Posted

    I add milks with my oils instead of with my lye because it's less fuss and muss for me. The method of freezing the milk and adding the lye slowly in the hopes it won't scald, etc...was just too much of a stress inducing hassle for me. Once I saw how much easier adding the milk to the oils was and how it still gave me excellent results, as well as light, creamy colored milk soaps, I've never looked back.

    First, I mix my lye with the minimum amount of water required for the lye to properly dissolve, and then I add the rest of my liquid amount as goat milk or coconut milk directly to my oils, stickblending the milk in either before adding my lye water to the oils, or just after when things are emulsified but not to trace yet. Doing it this way is easy peasy and so much less stressful for me.

    MarieJeanette :)

    Edited to add that when I want to make a 100% milk soap, I add enough goat milk powder or coconut milk powder to my milk portion in order to bring the milk concentration up to 100% for my entire liquid amount.

    Hello, I am new to soap making.

    MarieJeanette you said:

    [First, I mix my lye with the minimum amount of water required for the lye to properly dissolve]

    Now, do you discount the ounces from the milk to give to the lye water? or you just use the right amount of milk, and just add additional water to the lye?

    Do you understand what I am asking?

    Thank you

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