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tjaramillo

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Posts posted by tjaramillo

  1. Thanks! I think I'll try it! I'm trying to avoid having to do a second pour with the palm wax! I am currently doing palm pillars only and I hate having to dig into the candle to avoid the air pockets! I want to move on to containers using only essential oils and natural waxes - I think I'm going to try this next! Thanks so much!

  2. Hi, I'm testing some pillars and I have a silly question I'm sure, but here goes . . . I'm testing them with CDN14 wicks. I use palm. They are all 3" in diameter, squares and rounds. Here's the question - my large round is 3" x 6.5" and all of my CDNs are 6" long. Where can I find 7" CDNs or somewhere where I can get it on a spool? They are burning beautifully with this wick, I'd hate to have to switch and test another wick. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

  3. Hi all. I searched for the answer to this question and found only an answer with regard to paraffin. So, here goes. I'm testing square palm pillars 3" and I'm having a tough time with the wicking. On some, after a 6-8 hour burn, it's leaving a 1" rim on the corners, and a 3/4" rim on the sides, using a CD12. My question is, on these square palm pillars - what do you expect from the melt pool? Should I just expect a 1/4" rim on the sides, and a larger rim by the corners, i.e. 1/2"? I mean, a 1" rim on the sides, with a 3/4" side rim seems too big for an eight hour burn . . . it's the same size as when I burned it for my initial three hour burn. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks!

  4. I tried to search the answer to this question, but haven't found an answer. I really hope someone can help. My labels on my palm pillars get discolored and ugly with the fragrance oil. No other part of the candle is "sweating" but the label gets funky looking, and greasy. I use 1.5 oz per pound of wax.

    Does anyone else have this problem? If so, were you able to successfully fix it? Thanks!

  5. Stella - help!!!! OK, today I tried out some testers, using feather palm wax, Robnat palm wax. I tried your technique for the relief holes. I test in 3" x 3.5" round pillars. I think I did it all wrong! I tried your techique, and I got a slushy mess, instead of something I could push down. I think I may have done it too soon. What do you use to push down the wax? For this size pillar, how many times do cut and push down?

    Also, once you get a combination that you are happy with (FO, wax, wick) and you see that it works after you test, both the 3 hour test and the power burn test with that size 3x3.5, do you test a larger size that uses that same combination, i.e., 3 x 6? Or do you assume that because it worked with the 3 x 3.5" it will work with a 3x6 and 3x9? I'm only talking about taller sizes, not width larger, obviously that would change the wicking, etc.

    One more question, on your power burns on the pillar palm wax, where you let it burn all the way down, do you care if it blows out the sides? Pretty much in all of mine if I let it burn for more than 5 hours, it burns out the sides where they get holes and very thin and sometimes they leak. Not profusely, but they do leak, but if I wick down, after the initial 3 hour burn, the shell is way too thick. Any suggestions?

    Thanks everyone! The information I've learned here has been invaluable.

  6. Stella, hi! I'm new at making palm wax pillars and I too, have encountered these craters using Robnat "one pour" palm wax. I have a question - how many times do you cut that relief hole throughout the cooling process? And, at point do you begin to do so? How long do you wait to start?

    I was quite frustrated with these holes - I began noticing it when I was leveling off my candles and I just poured wax on top, but I don't know if I got all of the spots.

    Also, when you level your candles, do you actually use a level?

    Thanks so much for all of the great information!

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