SoyKandles

Did wait till they settled but doesn't wait now.

Lynn,

I noticed this statement in your first post. Does this mean you carry them in from the shed while they are liquid? Moving the candles before they have totally cooled could cause frost. I had been told that when I started making candles, so I made it a practice to not move them until cooled. Something to think about.

Thanks for your help . . . I think I'll give it a try.

There is no secrete, soy is going to frost either after the candle is made or during the burn after cooling. If there was a secret, universal ingredient then there would never be another "Help my soy candles are frosting" thread again. If you are not against some small amounts of paraffin in you soy candles, then you'll probably find that adding it stops frosting.

Small amount of paraffin meaning what? Like 3% or 10%?

I was hoping GB464 would be easier to work with than KY125. It sounds like there are always things to learn with any wax you use. . . and I knew that! Just realized I should stick with what I've used and tested extensively - KY125. I'm satisfied with the scent throw, just frustrated with frost that sometimes appears and sometimes doesn't! If someone would tell me the secret of a no frost soy candle, I'd be sooo happy!

I will need to wait for my wax and test it myself. Thanks for your input, now I know where to start.

Another question . . . does Golden Brands have their own website? I tried to find one last night and I kept getting an error message.

I'm just going to start testing GB 464, but I would never leave candles in a car. It might also create "frost" on your candles by exposing them to different temperatures. Not sure on this but as much work as I put into trying to create a "frost-free" soy candle, I just made sure I didn't leave them in my car for any length of time.

I think it would be too much work to change wax for a season with all the testing you would have to do. If you ship candles, ship on Mondays so they don't sit in a delivery truck over a long hot weekend.

I also have used the 8 oz square mason jars and when using KY125 and added beeswax. I was hoping to get away from the beeswax. I wonder if KY125 is fairly close to GB 464 . . . I think I remember that GB makes KY125 also.

In the beginning of my candlemaking I heated my jars and learned that created more frosting. So I don't heat my jars anymore, but the room temperature is important. Do you heat your jars?

I saw the information from Jason on tempering. That's why I wondering if people use that procedure with 464.

Thanks!

I haven't posted to this forum for a LONG time, but I'm missing candlemaking and want to get back into it some. I thoroughly enjoy candlemaking and have missed it!

So what I've read for GB 464 is to heat to 180* and pour around 160*. Then I read that some pour around 100*, which is what I use to pour at when using KY125. Then I read about Tempering . . . how do you get your color & FO to blend & bind with the wax at 125? Does adding the FO at a lower temperature change the scent throw? I'm wondering what to start with here! I know I need to just dive in and start the testing process, but I would like to hear from you all about some of these things.

Does Tempering really help?

Can you consistently get good tops when you pour hotter (around 160*)?

I have some wax on order and I can't wait to start testing!

Your opinions would be appreciated!

Its a certain way that they refine it, in order to make sure the oil doesnt loose its good qualities.

Ohhhh . . . thanks for clarifying!

I am seeing rosehip used a lot more out there as well. especually in face creams because of the high Vitamin A. great non-clogging oil as well. Make sure you get cold pressed

Why Cold Pressed?

Thanks for your help Carrie. How about adding Rose Hip Oil to the serum with the Jojoba & Squalene? Would this be beneficial? I thought once I read Rose Hip Oil could possibly clog pores, but when I tried to find that information again I couldn't find it. What do you think Carrie?

Thanks!

Susan

Reasonable answer! I just thought it might sound more impressive having a 'Serum' with more than one ingredient in it!! Silly, I know!

Is it overkill to use Jojoba & Olive Squalane together in a facial serum? They both are similar to human sebum, but is it beneficial to have both in a serum?

Since I'm over 50 I need to help my aging skin out as much as I can!! So I'm trying make something great for my skin.

Just to let you know what I did and how it turned out . . . I painted 3 light coats of Modge Podge Gloss on the candle and it looks nice. Letting the modge podge dry for 15-20 between coats, it worked great.

you can try a lil modge podge gloss see if that works maybe? just enought to cover the decal outter edges of the decal

Thanks PixieWick . . . I went out last night and bought some modge podge. I will apply like you said - just a little over the edge. Hope it turns out!

After applying the decal onto a pillar candle, should I put a coating of something over the top to help secure the decal to the candle?

I read in a search that someone did a over-dip of the pillar. I don't have equipment available to accomplish this. I tried to brush wax over the decal and that gave the pillar a brushed look, which maybe is OK, but not what I'm looking for right now.

Maybe I don't need anything at all.?? I'm making a wedding unity candle and the church isn't air conditioned, so I'm afraid the decal will curl up on the edges in our humid weather.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Susan

I know that Brambleberry has a lipstick making kit and after searching, found the section in her blog about lipstick making. Just scroll through til you find it!

http://soap-queen.blogspot.com/2008_02_01_archive.html

Angi

Thanks Angi - I went through and copied it all - I'll read it later. Looks like some good information, just what I needed.

Susan

You don't melt or dissolve the micas, you suspend them. So it's a bit of a balancing act - you need to pour cool enough that they stay suspended but warm enough that it's still plenty liquid.

Same as adding oatmeal to MP soap!

So then when you're applying lipstick, it's just a lot of tiny mica dots on your lips? I've read where you should crush or grind your mica before using - is this true?

Thanks Care Bear!

I've read that lanolin is what you want to have the color to transfer onto your lips?? Which is it - castor or lanolin??

Check this link out..

http://72.37.149.157/display_page.php?i=6%20#What_are_the_differences_between_a_Dye,_a_Pigment,_a_Lake_and_a_Mica_

Hey Bunny - this link doesn't come up (this post is quite old!!) Can you tell me what website this information was on? Thanks!

Susan

I've been playing around with making colored lip balm and I want to try making lipstick. Is there a special trick to melting the micas so they blend with your other ingredients?

To make a lipstick, I've read where adding lanolin is the ingredient that makes the color come off on your lips - is this right?

Any help with lip stick or lip balm colors would be appreciated!!

I have a few of those aluminum pour pots I bought from a candle making supplies company and I like them because I make soy and it seems like aluminum helped the soy wax to cool faster than the other pouring pots. I have no problem with scent retention either.

Those Lantern Jars are nice. The labels look great also - just a very nice website altogether!

Thanks for pointing those candles out!

Don't even think about putting a spigot on your presto pot. I had my husband put one in and only used it once. It's so easy to pour out into your pouring pot rather than stand there and wait for the wax to come out the spigot!! DON'T DO IT!!

Thanks Vicky for suggesting the cracker jars - I had looked into those years ago and forgot about them! I've also thought about a hinged lid jar, but I think those cost quite a bit more.

Thanks