RMSSHELTON

from Labels by the Sheet?

I'm wondering if they come away with clean edges and also, do you have problems with them coming unattached from the sheet when doing multiple passes through the printer.

Is that the company name?

I use a magic wand.

lol

That works best I have seen.

I keep asking my wife to go

Bippity Bobbitty Boo...

But she just wont do it.

I'm looking to rename these two fragrances in hopes they may sell better. At this time neither one of these is a seller for me and I'd like to move the oils out by using them. Any name change suggestions appreciated. Below are the current names and a description.

Naturewalk—A clean and fresh summer breeze combines with the delicate green of lacy Maidenhair ferns, crushed pin needles and loamy Earth to create a fresh outdoor woodland fragrance.

Northwoods—An awesome infusion of raspberries, blackberries, huckleberries and mulberries.

Crisp Summer

Black Night

Good luck, and Bad Luck.

I found that I had to mix them first off. Like at 180-185 and stir constantly.

But They sure look good when you do.

When I would add at lower temps it would get streaky and kind of Marble looking.

So I just added it first and everything was fine.

Made sure to mix very well.... and stir.

I really only had the problem with the dark colors, red, blue, black and brown.

I have 1 bottle of each color.

The light colors I could add almost anytime.

HTH

also sense I make them out of the back kitchen but still coneccted to the house . should I notify my homeowners . not sure if usaa would cover that. I was not going to go thru them for the ins. I was going to go to indy .

thanks so much off to search for answer to millions of other questions....

WHAT COMPANIES IN TEXAS COVER THIS. IF YOU WORK OUT OF YOUR HOME

Terrific! Now I'm looking forward to seeing pics of your new 'babies'.

HERE ARE THE KIDS

WELL I TRIED BUT THE FILE IS TO BIG.

I AM AT WORK AND HAVE NO WAY TO CONVERT IT.

Terrific! Now I'm looking forward to seeing pics of your new 'babies'.

Will see what I can do.

Ok I changed formula.

1 Pound CB 135

.48oz of Beeswax

1.5 ts USA

1.5 ts CO

7% FO

Bring to 185,

Stirred consistantly and slowly

Poured at 114-115

Place on Rack, covered with box.

Room 72 Deg. 55% humidity.

Did two different batches.

Love Spell and Fruit Slices.

BAM BAM BAM.

Every one looks PERFECT.

Used Red, wich never works for me, used Blue and Red for Purple and that always looked ugly too.:whoohoo:

Not a problem one. All colors mixed well,

No Streaks,

creamy through Out.

Smooth silky tops.

A little rising around the wick. ( very Little )

Cold throw this morning was Good.

I placed the lids on this morning and we will let Cure till next week.

It is all because, of all your help.

I kept asking questions and You guys kept helping.

So my Wife and I thank you so Much.

Hope we can have this luck again tonight.

THANKS AGAIN

Any other ideas please Keep'em coming.

What make it worse for a lot of the Fragrance manufactures is their own minimum how many smaller candle companies can afford to buy 25+ lb of FO at a time. At one time the minimum was 10lb for a lot of them.

Who are the manufacturers.

Do you ahve any Links?

I really like the CB 135 but haven't found the best wick yet. What wick are you using?

I am using the HTP's

They seem to burn really nice, and my throw is pretty good.

And don't forget that not all FO's throw in all waxes equally well. Something that works in C3 may not in the 135. So if you can't get an oil to throw consider changing oils. Just because "Throws well in soy" is in the description does not mean it will throw in YOUR soy. And some cure in 2 days and others take 7 days or more!

Voice of experience here.

Thanks again. I appreciate all you guys' help

Ok, I was reading about tempering.

Right Now we are working with CB135.

Dark colors suck, Especially red.

Read a little about tempering when asking about sink holes and "CAVES"...

So for the rest....

How do you temper your wax, If you do this?

Has it really helped out?

I dont use your wax....but I dont stir constantly and when I do I try to stir so I dont get air into the wax....I guess slow and steady describes it.

Also, You will find with FO alot of times LESS is better. If you can get the same throw with 6% as 9% then why use more. I have started testing my new wax mix at 6% (taking the advice of some very seasoned candle makers on this board) You will find your candles will more than likley burn better with less FO.

tootie

Thanks again.

Well I found that at 1oz PP of wax that my cents just wherent all that great.

So not really knowing how this all worked I moved to 2oz PP.

Well the cold throw was great. But You are right the Hot throw is still not what I wanted. It was however still better than 1ozPP for me anyway.

So I guess I need to find that medium. And each scent is a little different.

Very stressful./

So much money spent on testing LOL

Then even with all that...You still Have to test the wicks.

What fun.

And then some of the candles I first poured now seem to smell stronger. I guess from Curing.

Ohh what fun.

Anyhow, I guess that is why I bought so many supplies. I am about half way through the 50lbs of CB 135.

And am still not sold on the finished product yet.

So I am backing off the FO, and also I am trying to focus on making a great looking candle. Smooth tops few wet spots, great texture, even texture throught.

Then try and fine tune the FO for the scents then I guess focus on the wicks again.

Of course with every change I guess you have to start all over again.

They are overpriced!!

I left a message with them

But havent heard back, granted that was about 10 minutes ago.

Is there another place you recommend??

I am having very good luck, With HTP

For that size I am thinking HTP 83 or 93

Depends on the FO, and additives.

You need to test.

But I have had good luck with those wicks in that size.

Also I have read that many people have had great success with CD and CDN wicks.

Tootie, I guess you and I are the only ones that noticed that.

RMShelton, I think that's too much fo. Generally 1.5oz pp is max. You mentioned that you are using 2oz for less than a pound. Try backing off the fo a bit; maybe go down to 1oz pp to start with. I think you'll see you will have better hot throw. HTH you out a little.

Thanks again.

Well last night I tried at about 9% FO, instead of 12%

We will see how that goes.

This morning I noticed that the tops did look a little smoother. There seemed to be no holes or "caves".

I did notice though that there is a cracked ring around the candle. I still think they may be cooling to fast.

I poured last nite at exactly 100 degrees. ( well if the thermometer is right..lol )

Room at 72 degrees.

On stirring do you guys stir constantly.

Hard Fast, slow steady, both, continuously or in stages?

A quick search found these links to previous discussions:

THANKS EVERYONE

Try this site. You can add a classy looking label to the front and wala! Is this what you were looking for?

http://www.papermart.com/index/index_retail_box_tucktop.htm

Carrie

Not exactly what I wanted.

But I think this may be a lot cheaper.

What I was looking for was a company that can make and print boxes for you.

Where you own design can be printed on the bo itself.

Thanks! I'm going to back down on the amounts I'm using of each and see what happens. I too am pouring between those temps. How high are you bringing the wax temp before backing it down? Also, have you ever tried tempering this wax? I've noticed an improvement in frosting when I do this.

What do you mean "tempering" the wax.

Please let me know.

Thank you for all your advice.

I thought about warming my house a little in the evening.

Perhaps to 74-76 degrees.

I like the idea of putting them in the oven.

I tried that once though and the tops came out horrible, but i heated the containers. I wonder if I just leave everything them in the oven, without heating the containers if it would be better.

I get cavities with Cb-135 also.

I have poured at so many different temperatures, in warmed glass, cool glass, etc etc and I still get them. It ruins the candle.

The only thing you can do if you know you get cavities is to do as I do and poke relief holes whilst the candle is setting up - and then do a repour.

You WILL get people responding to this thread telling you that you are pouring your candles wrong, and that CB-135 DOESN'T get cavities - but ignore them - seriously - it DOES happen and after extensive testing, I still cannot figure out why.

Nat

I think so to.

Looked over a few other candles that I had, I did find one other with the same problem.

I poured 6 tins at the same time.

Only one of the 6 had the cavity.

So I cant be pouring wrong.

Repouring is not a big deal.

I guess what I will do Is make a little extra wax pour about 80% and wait till it sets,

keep the left over wax hot and then After the top sets, Pop it and let it cave in and repour.

So much for a "true single pour wax" lol

I really think that the problem is that the top cools to quickly and the Structure of the Crytals forms a kind of dome.

And the warmer wax in the center structuires differently causing the colapse.

I will test it with clear wax and purposefully cool the top faster to see if I can regularly get the same result.

If I do then I will will find a way to keep the top warm while the rest cools.

I am looking for custom printed boxes.

I have seen a few that I like.

I like these.

http://www.grannybeescandles.com/site/718080/page/45029

I am trying to find packaging that is affordable but would add to the overall presentation of the sale. Or maybe be offered as Giftbox.

I am not sure, just depends on how much it costs.

Please let me know if you all use anything liek this and how it affects your sales and customer satisfaction.

Thanks

Ok this is a new one for me.

I am using CB135

Well for some reason on the last two pours I am getting what looks to be a great candle.

It has no wet spots, flat smooth creamy tops. All looks good till I burn it.

Then all of the sudden....

POP...

It seems as though a cavern developed in my wax.

Like a shell.

Like the middle caved in, but the top cooled fast enough to keep its form.

I pour at about 100 - 110

I use CB135

1oz PP of Beeswax. ( actually 15oz of cb135 and 1oz Beeswax )

2oz FO

I have used this formula before, on all our other pours and No problems like this.

The only thing that changed was the FO's

But they where two completely different FO's

One was Vanilla Passion, The Other BlackBerry Sage.

The only thing the same is that I poured them on the same day.

My house is temp set. Usually at exactly 70 degrees, The humity is regulated to 55% all the time.

I am using the same wax, and same additives ( beeswax )

ANY IDEAS???

Has this ever happened to you?

Also would it be okay to place the candle in a double boiler and remelt the wax and let it recool to see if it would not do the same thing?

Or would the WICK be ruined?

I use CB 135. I add CO and USA to the wax before I add color. I was having trouble with purples, blues and reds frosting. So far no frosting and nice creamy tops on all colors with the addition of these two additives.

I have the same thing happen.

Mostly with the red dye, if I add it to make purple.

With blue it is not nearly as bad for me.

I also tried USA a just regular UA, to see if that made any difference, it helped a little.

I am still waiting on some chips to come in. To try those.

I was using the liquids and I am trying the chips now instead.

Have you, or anyone else, tried USA with CB-135? Just curious.

I have not.

my only concern is the scent throw.

I bought the CBA and It kinda sucked compared to the 135.

I would hate to loose that.

It just seems like you have to accept something.

Wet spots,

Texture,

Throw,

or something else.

Nothing just comes out perfect.....Oh well.