rainey
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Posts posted by rainey
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I'm making candles for my girlfriend's baby shower and I need to make round labels for the tins (top).
Anyone have any suggestions as to which software I should buy? She wants something really cute.
I've seen a bunch of darling labels online that I could buy, but I want to make them myself.
Help!
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Could be an air pocket. If you poke a hole near the wick where the dip is, you might find an air pocket.
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Too bad because it would be so much easier to center wicks.
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I don't work with GW, but hang in there!!! You'll see results of your hard work soon.
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Hate those wet spots!
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Once you have a little success with the melt pool, you'll be hooked.
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I'm always amazed that people will buy bad looking candles. I just don't understand it.
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Geek ~
If you have a microwave nearby, you might want to try heating your container in it first, then add your wicks (experiment with the time to get the right temp for your container, i.e., 30 secs or 1 minute, depending on the wattage of your micro).
It's a lot easier than blasting the container with the heat gun. :whoohoo:
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I have a Wagner heat gun and it's a great tool. It's not big and bulky or heavy so you can take it with you for touch ups. AND... it gets the job done (600 watts of heat) and it's easier to handle than the larger heat guns. I absolutely love mine and it was under $20! What more can you ask for!?!
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I love CB135, it gave me beautiful candles -- but the throw just wasn't there so I stopped using it.
I found CBA1 to have a much better throw, but it doesn't set up as beautiful as the 135.
CBA2 was supposed to be even better than CBA1; apparently not because NGI discontinued it from their line.
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Yikes! Thanks for the info.
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If I tested candles with an HTP #62 from one supplier -- and then order these wicks from another supplier, will my candle burn the same way????
I forgot to include these wicks in my recent order. Now, if I order them alone, it will cost me $4 in shipping.
I need to place an order with a different company and I could include these wicks in my order but if I'm not going to get the same results, I'd rather pay the $4 and have peace of mind.
What has been your experience with mixing wick suppliers?
Thanks!
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I think you're on to something Geek! Your theory makes total sense.
I've noticed that when a wick bends.... that part of the glass container is usually much hotter than any other area. I measured my wicks and they are one and one-half inches apart. I was able to wick down a couple of sizes without compromising the melt pool and throw, but the container is still hot. I'll try moving the wicks closer together and see what happens.
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Okay, I was testing one of those very shallow heart shaped glass containers with 2 wicks and it heated up pretty good (more than I would like). Even so, I was able to carry it to another spot. Although -- everyone knows that candles/containers should never be touched or moved while burning, I still wanted to test it out. I did try wicking down one size but it seemed like the container was even hotter.
After 4 hours, the temp of the container was 115 and the melt pool was 157. I let it burn until it extinguished on its own. Hot throw was very good.
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Try this site:
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Taylored Concepts displays that warning. There was a thread a while back on it which you can view here: http://www.candletech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5827&highlight=ASTM
Thanks Shannon.
So I am correct in understanding that we are to measure the temp of the actual melt pool, not the temp of the container (like the outside).
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I saw this information on a candle supplier's website and thought I would pass it on:
"NOTE: THE ASTM has declared that 175º is the Maximum temperature that the Container can be when the melt pool has been achieved on your candles. Any thing above this can be a hazard. Please check your candles to comply with these standards."
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Thanks a bunch Ladies!
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Thanks for the info. I've tried NG's WVS and it's really nice, but the cold and hot throws are not what I would like them to be.
I saw the bulk oils website initially on ebay, then I saw their web address so I decided to check them out. I didn't save the ebay link to my favorties, but since they have a store on ebay they shouldn't be hard to find.
I'm not familiar with ICS? Who are they?
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Here's a site - hope it helps.
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Has anyone ever ordered FO's from here?
I was wondering how their warm vanilla sugar is.... I love that scent.
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Budgie -- Yeah thanks for the info on the glue dots... I'm going to take a look. If they are clear, then I can use them, but if they are white, then I'm back to where I started.
Bev -- yes, the pretty containers will be be used again by the person who purchased them. And, since they will be double wicked, the warning label will only cover part of the white stickems because I don't want to put a HUGE warning label on the bottom.
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OOooooooooopps :rolleyes2 They don't make CDs over 22.
I meant to say: HTP 31 and 41 (not CD).
So the original question should be: Do 15mm tabs work with HTP 31 and 41? -- OR -- are 15 mm tabs only used with tea lights?
Thanks!
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The diamond cubes sound great! If I use this glue will someone be able to get the tabs off the bottom of the container after the candle burns down? I like the idea of using silicone, but it's permanent.
The stickems are also great - they've only moved on me once. I use them all the time but for this project I'm using a container than can be used again and the white stickems, even though they're on the bottom, don't look good when you lift up the pretty container. They stick out like a sore thumb. :rolleyes2
Baby Shower Labels
in Crafty Discussion
Posted
Hi, thank you both for your input.
I've found templates for 2" round labels, but I have not been able to find all those cute pictures to put on the labels. I'm looking for the soft prints and pastels of clothes, animals, etc. It is a lot of work and as much as I wanted to do it myself, maybe I should just buy the labels.
:undecided