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This unfortunately doesn’t surprise me. Having worked professionally as a candle maker for 25 years, and in the supply business for 17, I’ve seen a lot of companies fail. I’m shocked it didn’t come sooner. I personally love Dan, but the constant changes in his line from the first buckets of soy made it impossible for me to consistently produce a quality product. I am no longer in the business, but still make product for gifts and personal use, and it never crossed my mind to go back.

On ‎12‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 10:44 AM, strugglebrother said:

 

I did test the same scent with and without the white dye and with the dye in there, the burn got heavily affected.

 

It sure needs another wick or several sizes up if you add the dye to the wax, even though they are advertising that it doesn't.

 

I tried three dosage levels with the same clogging result and I also found that you indeed have to use quite a lot to actually be able to dye the wax to white, much more than liquid dyes. This is also in paraffin which usually takes on color really well. I was confused by the testing and ruled it out as not doing what it should.

The problem is, it's not technically be advertised correctly. It is a blue, which when added to something that is slightly off white, will give the illusion of being whiter due to the blue. It should take a very small amount and isn't really a dye, more a product that will just work to make a candle seem whiter than it naturally is.

31 minutes ago, strugglebrother said:

 I have tried this, it indeed clogged the wick - their description is very misguiding!

 

https://www.candlemakingsupplies.net/p___P1017491.html

I tested this product years ago with no adverse effects quite extensively as I worked for a supplier. I am wondering if it was not the amount you used or the scent causing the need for a different wick?

Not sure why you want a mottle if you don't want paraffin? Straight paraffin burns exceptionally clean, has no added chemicals and is simply a byproduct of crude oil, which is far more organic than that GMO soy. Just tossing out some little known facts the soy council has managed to blow over.

I'd probably avoid beer cans. Aluminum cans are VERY thin compared to a tin. If you've ever tossed an empty can into a lit fire, you know how fast they combust. Nope, probably not a good idea PLUS getting a smooth edge...

3 hours ago, xalwayswins said:

I have been trying the black powder dye and am not getting very good results. I used the pinch, dash smidgen spoons fro bittercreek as well. I did 3 test batches of 1lb each. Each time doubling the dye. The only one that got remotely black was using 2 dashes. All 3 were all definitely blue, but the 3rd batch was the closest to black. The 2 dashes is about 0.25% but it certainly clogged the wick. 

 

I called bitter creek and they suggested adding some red dye to the mix at half part red to 2 parts black.  I have not tried that yet as I am waiting for the red dye to arrive. I feel like .025% is too much though. ESP seeing the instructions call for 0.05%....

 

Any ideas here???

 

OMG who suggested that?! NO! Red will not fix this. And why would you even consider adding red. I did their tech support from 1999-2016, you would never add red. What wax are you using? A Soy will take a lot more than a paraffin. Also, are you sure all particles are dissolving? I add my dye to the fragrance, and make sure it's solubilizing well before adding to the wax. You can also add to direct heat and steric acid. You may find you need to wick up when using a black dye, or any dye you need a fair amount of, but I assure you, that that will make a true black, even in soy

On ‎11‎/‎12‎/‎2017 at 4:14 PM, Candybee said:

What is the powder? Ive never heard of powder dyes for candlemaking. Are you sure its safe for use in candles? If not, it could clog the wick or worse.

 Candy Bee, all dye for candles begins as a powder, and is either mixed into solvents for liquids or wax, polymer etc for chips and flakes.

I think you re simply making this more work than it needs to be or should be, and also creating a HUGE storage nightmare for yourself.

True of any wax. The thing is, normally you would not have weeks to months to cure a candle. I did only wholesale, so my orders were out the door in a week or less. Meaning my scents needed to be optimal within that time frame. It really will still limit what works well in your wax and you can use long term depending on how you sell. If you only did shows, then do them early and let them cure!

There are a lot of perfume houses in the US. I would say it is absolutely possible and more than likely probable that they are.

On ‎9‎/‎21‎/‎2018 at 8:14 PM, Daisymay66 said:

Is there just one kind of lotion base?

Yes

On ‎9‎/‎7‎/‎2018 at 12:02 PM, Darbla said:

Do any of you have experience with their body spray base, shower gel base, and any lotions or creams they have?  I am thinking on trying some of those new scents but need some of these other things too, and it would be nice to get everything from one place and not have to pay shipping all over again somewhere else.

All of the above.
I have not worked there in about three years, but was there almost 20!

Lotion base, LOVE LOVE LOVE it! Very thick but does not leave you greasy and soaks in so you don't need to reapply a dozen times a day.

Protein Mist. Not a huge fan for a body spray but I love it as a light leave in hair conditioner and it works especially well as a detangler for kids hair.

Shower Gel. I like it but it can thin to water very easily so go slow with the FO and test each scent.

Cyclomethicone - great for room and body spray! Holds a LOT of fo! Most mix well.

I never use an FO that requires more than 6%. Truly, even at 9-10%, that is a LOT of fragrance. A good quality fo, combined with the proper wax, wick and room size to candle diameter should be plenty adequate. Sometimes using more actually suppresses the burn and the candle smells less than had you used less FO to begin with.

Try backing off on the FO. The more you use, the more soot you will encounter.

Is this a pillar candle? If so, what wax are you using specifically and what additives if any?

21 hours ago, Jcandleattic said:

I must be the odd one out. 

I don't use a thermometer. Haven't since probably my 3rd day in. Maybe sooner, who knows, I can't remember yesterday let alone 20 years ago! HA 

 

I also don't work with temperamental waxes that rely on a certain temp to be poured. I mean, I do use palm, but I set my presto to 205, melt and go. Never had a problem, so don't consider not having a thermometer a problem. 

I really don't either. I gauge it by if the wax sticks to the pot to determine how hot it is. I use mostly 6006, 1343 and 4986, none of which are over temperamental either.
IF I were using wax that was, I probably would have quit years ago. LOL

NM you don't have a full case. Honestly I'd call the supplier, because that does not even look like 4625 to me.

Is there a label on the box? That doesn't even look like 4625...

I never test burned in my home.

I found it too full of scent, and I was immune to it there. I brought my candles to friends homes and had them test them, then I went over while they were burning to see if I agreed.

I used almost all CD wicks in that wax. I used it over 15 years, different suppliers wicks may burn different depending on who tabs them. Mine came from Bitter Creek which uses Wicks Unlimited, for most scents a CD 10 did well. An Eco 2 or 4 may also work well. 

I place a small block of wood under the slab and break it up using  a hammer. This has been most effective in the 25 years I've used that wax.

If your wax pulls away, I do my repours before they are totally cool. In pillars I do them actually more than once, and keep doing them as the candle cools, poking relief holes each time.

If the wax adheres, I wait till they are cool and repour at once.

Does it sort of have a fuel smell?

What fragrance are you using?

Candle Cocoon! Hands down!