Mary <><

It's tempting when you start out to try everything you heard of that might make it better. That usually backfires plus makes it confusing to sort out what's wrong.

C-3 is intended to be a fully formulated product. That doesn't mean you can't add to it, but start out with the plain wax and fragrance first and make sure the candles are coming out normal. Later you can experiment with how to make them better if you wish.

This sounds like me for sure. I guess I have been trying to be preemptive in my estimations of what I might need. At first I was putting every addative I had ever heard of in there! LOL! I have cut out a lot of it, but it sounds like I need to go back to the beginning and try just wax & FO as you suggested. Thanks to you all for your great advice!

I would cut out the beeswax and buy a heat gun. I use C3 and sometimes the tops will come out funky, but as long as you're pouring at a low temp as recommended, and you use a heat gun, the tops will be smooth. I don't use any additives...

I think this would help & it is a great suggestion, however, My DH (the most supportive & wonderful guy in the world), is not comfortable with me getting a heat gun. He used them at his old job & is convinced that they are dangerous & said he could not sleep at nite if I had one of those. I would love to try that, but unfortunately it is not an option.

Similar to what my friend experienced. Found out she was stirring like mad just at the beginning, letting the pour pot sit to cool and then pouring. Now she also stirs the pot thoroughly just before pouring and hasn't had a problem.

I stir gently but relentlessly all throughout the entire cooling time, and especially just before I pour. Maybe I need to stir more aggressively???

Thanks to you all for your suggestions, & keep them coming if you think of any more!

Mary, I read back on the difficulties you were having in October

http://www.craftserver.com/forums/showthread.php?p=568781#post568781

with the grainy texture and I think the solutions to both problems may lie right in that old thread. You didn't mention either place that I read how much FO you are using, but I see that something is happening to the structure of the wax and I think it is related to your additives and/or FO. What FO(s) have given you trouble?

What is this USI...ULI? Is that the ultraviolet stabilizer stuff?

If this is happening to you batch after batch, I think the problem may be a combination of the FOs that you are using and the additives (specifically the beeswax and USA and whatever the other stuff is...). Try leaving out additives, starting with the beeswax and see if the situation improves. If it does not, try using a FO from a different source and see if that makes a difference.

Thanks to all for your replies. :smiley2: I should have stated before that I am using 1 oz pp of FO and never any more than that. I add the BW to give a smoother, creamier appearance to the tops. The other additive I mentioned was the ultraviolet stabilizer stuff, and I used that bc I was having a problem w my uncolored candles turning yellowish a few weeks to a month after pouring them. Since my problem in October, I have stopped using USA & the CO, but I am still using the light stuff, so maybe I should give that up too. I thought this stuff was supposed to HELP you make better candles, not make new problems while trying to solve other ones, LOL! I guess I can try giving that up too, but it seems like you all really think the BW is the first thing I should give up. What is it about the BW that would possibly cause this to happen? I will try a batch w/o it if I have to, but I just love the creamy smooth texture it adds to the finished candle.

This problem is happening to every fragrance I am using, not just a few and not just "heavy" fragrances, though I am not quite sure I could adaquately differentiate between a heavy one and a light one. Surely every one I am using is not heavy, or could they be? I am cooling them all in the same place. I just can't reason out why some would be perfect and others from the exact same pouring pot would be sweating.

Thanks!

Could any of you explain to me what I am doing wrong? I poured both of these from the same pouring pot at the same time!!! As you can see from the pic, one is sweating and the other is not. Why would that happen?

This doesn't make any sense to me at all, and it is very frustrating. I am at the point that I must remelt almost every batch that I am making bc of this.

I am using a Presto Pot w/ C3 heated to 175*-180*, I add 1 T BW pp, 1/4 t ULI, Pouring (w/ the spigot) in to metal pouring pot, immediately add FO & Liquid color, stir stir stir stir stir like crazy, cool to 125* & pour into clean glass jars. Then I leave them alone and do not move them or touch them for 2 days.

On the 2nd day I have been waking up to find them like this. It is MADDNING as you can well imagine, especially since it is only happening to some, even though they were all made exactly the same way.

PLEASE HELP!!!

I started with JBN too! I am having fun, & I know you will as well! What FOs did you get? They have some great ones! Post pics!

Mary <><

Thanks! Not exactly what I wanted to hear, but it is what I thought. Off to melt!!!

Mary <><

I made some C3 candles about 2 months ago and within 4 days they were sweating big time. I left them alone for 2 months just to see what would happen and they re-absorbed the sweat back into the wax (maybe about a month into it). I plan on remelting them today, but just out of curiosity, will the sweat come back if I just leave them alone? I wondered if maybe they re-absorbed just bc it is colder out right now & maybe once it gets warmer again they will sweat again. Any ideas? TIA!

Mary <><

Candle warmer works for me, that is usually after i dig out the bulk of the wax

Thanks to all for the tips! Just one more question; would I just use a spoon to dig out the wax? I mean, seems like it might be kinda hard to dig that out, ya know? Thanks again!

Mary <><

Thanks so much for all of your suggestions! I don't have a microwave, and being that I am a perfectionist about the food I cook Misbizzyb's comment about the FO lingering scated me! I love the griddle idea! Never thought of that! Also, I guess I could pull out the double boiler. Anyway, thanks to all! Now, off to melt!!!

Mary <><

Will the oven possibly crack the jars? I do not have a candle warmer, & my oven's lowest temp is 170*. Thanks!

Mary <><

Hi! Just wanted to know how I would go about re-melting a candle that has already been poured into a glass jar w/ a wick. C-3 wax, not sure if that matters or not! TIA!

Mary <><

Actually, my husband & I have a business unrelated to candles, but when we do shows we have a phone # that we call to get Authorization on Visa, MC, & Discover (no AmEx) using our cell phone. We have one of those carbon copy type manual slide units & we just write the Auth # on there & have the customer sign it. I will PM you the info if you are interested! HTH!

Mary <><

I know that if an FO contains vanilla, that vanilla can crystallize out. IF you look at the bottle do you see those crystals in there?

Thanks so much for your input! I will look at the bottle when I get home today. However, it is not what I would consider "crystalized" but more the true texture of cooked grits or polenta. Soft tiny lumpy grits. Squishable in between your fingers.

AAngels,

Thanks, I will try another test with C3 only. I love the creamy texture that the BW adds, but I will give it a go and see what happens. In the back of my mind I was thinking that it might be the USA or the USI (even tho I know the USA is supposed to help smooth out) until I poured the other batches with no problems. Still confused.

Mary <><

Sorry, the title was supposed to say "texture," but I can't edit it! LOL! Anyway, does anyone know what might cause a gritty texture in my C3 candles? I was using a presto pot, so I poured 3 different scents from the same batch of melted wax and only one of these scents came out gritty. Could the FO be the culprit? Here is the technique I used:

2 lb C3

3 T CO

2 T White Beeswax Pellets (JBN)

1 t USA

1/2 t USI

4 drops yellow

4 drops red

2 oz CS Pumpkin Souffle

Melt wax to 150* in Presto Pot, then add CO, BW, USI, & USA. Bring up to 175* then pour into pouring pot, add color and stir. Cool to 155* add FO, cool to 130* & pour into lightly warmed containers.

I used the exact same technique with 2 other scents with no problem. However I did a separate batch of melted wax in the PP & had the same result on a different FO. CS Cinnamon Buns. The other FOs I used came from differnt suppliers, but I thought CS has a good reputation so surely it couldn't be them, just a coincidence. I am stumped! These scents are both DELECTABLE and I would like to continue to try to make them work for me. Has anyone else used these specific FOs that could offer some input? Or can anyone see what I am doing wrong? And if it is my technique, why are my others not affected?

TIA for any advice you might have!

Mary <><

Thanks so much for your replies everyone! Maybe he will be ok with it now!

Mary <><

Hello! I have been thinking about getting a heat gun to help smooth out the tops of my candles. My husband (who happens to be the absolute most supportive and fantastic guy in the WIDE WORLD :whoohoo: great lookin too! ) is a bit concerned that they are a very dangerous fire hazard and is afraid to get one. I thought I would get a general consensous for us to look at so that we can make the best possible choice. Can you please tell us what you know about heat guns and heat gun safety? TIA!

Mary <><

One more quick question. If I did add FO and color in the Presto Pot, how would I be sure none of the color or FO was left in the spigot? Thanks!

Mary <><

Thanks to all! That helps a lot! Actually, when I was posting that question, I heard the FedEx truck pull up. He brought my Prest Pot! I am off of work for the next 3 days, so I guess I know what I will be doing! Thanks again!

Mary <><

Hello! I have recently ordered a presto pot and would like to know the techniques you use for it. Do you melt the wax and then pour it into separate pouring pots, color, scent then pour? If so, how do you know how much to put in your pouring pots? Do you weigh it? Or do you color & scent in the Presto pot and pour it right in to the containers? I hope this question makes sense, TIA!

Mary <><

Thanks! One more quick question if you don't mind, I have an ingredients list for a scrub that lists "Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyglycerin" as it's "paraben free preservative," (notice preservative is singular even though there are 2 ingredients listed). Are these 2 separate individual ingredients (if so, where would I get them?) or are they both contained in one product that I just don't have the name for? TIA!

Mary <><

Michi,

What are some good paraben free preservatives that you suggest? I saw the link about preservatives at the top of this section, but it is nice to get someone's opinions who has experience working with specific products!

THANKS!

Mary <><

What preservative do you recommend for this recipe? :embarasse Don't know alot about which ones to use for sugar srubs! I was actually wondering if vitamin E would be enough of a "preservative" to use. Someone at my local health food market told me it would be all I would need to make it last at least a year. Is that right? TIA!

Mary <><

Hello!

I have been making candles for about a month now, and I LOVE IT! I have been logging every test I have done in a notebook, but I wondered how some of you keep track of what you do so that you can use it for reference in the future. Do you just jot some things down, or do you have a log sheet form that you use? Thanks in advance!

Mary <><

Thanks! That is what I was looking for!

Mary <><

Not quite sure what this looks like, so I was hoping someone could post pics detailing "FROSTING." "Newbie" Just want to know what to watch for! Thanks in advance...

Mary <><