Malystxy

is the wick size correct for the pillar? in not, the heat from the flame may be heating the holder enough to cause it to affect the wax and the burn. It may be affecting the integrity the sides of the pillar.

Fire is very hot.

Lol, so is 200 degree wax. Don't use fingers to retrive something that inadvertenly fell into your presto pot or pouring pot. Use anything else but your finger....The doctor sure gave me a look that day.

He He, set your mold on a stable platform, it it falls when it is cooling, ouch.

Wax is hard to remove from carpet, be careful in both testing locationa and wax making location.

You are going to laugh at the reason why I asked this, I want to make some shiny ones that go along with my new ps3 that I get tomorrow, that thing is very shiny.

So candle gloss, is that added after it cools, or an additive to the wax?

Is it possible to make the surface of a candle shiny and reflective?

Lol, even I, who have been making candles for myself as a hobby fr the past few months (noob to the core still), know that before I gave any away as gifts to test burn them first, or similiar ones. LOL, well, if you have seen people drive, you know about the collective intelligence of society.

One word "PEOPLE!!"

What are the health effects of making candles? I pour about once a week or so, and I only make one or two candles each time in my apartment. Am I in any danger from the wax, or fumes? I never go above 210. Also, Does burning candles cause adverse health effects?

Since there were fumes, and you got some smoking, get to the doctor immediately. Generally, from what I have studied, melting wax is not harful, until it reaches 240 or more, then it starts to emit toxic fumes.

You aren't like sticking these into the fridge right after pouring are you? My suggestion would be to just cool them at room temp like was mentioned. Your pouring temp should be fine. I t hink you're rush cooling them and getting the frost, which is common for rustics, particularly rush-cooled.

So that is how you would do s rustic candle? What is a rustic candle anyway.

Yea, I was sticking them in the fridge as soon as they created teh film on top.

yaley premium wax, not sure what it's code is, or number id. But they recommend pouring it at 180-195

I pour at 190, and yes, straight parrifin. THe mold is room temp, to cold? I could heat it a little, though the polycarbonate ones not sure how. THe metal one I have I could easily heat up with a heat gun.

What happens is some of the wax sticks to the mold, and leaves a thin residue that looks like frost on a new candle made in that mold.

Would cooling a candle to fast cause problems? Like putting it in the refrigerator?

what causes what looks like frost on the side of the pillar candles?

How can I avoid it?

how can I fix it?

thank you, I should have realized that, though I use solid frangrance. And difference between teh oil version and te solid version?

Sorry for the noob question, I am still learning this create a candle thing, and loving it. I should post some pics of some of my creations.

your personal online website? WHat about auciton sites like ebay?

I was wondering about selling a few, where do you sell yours at?

Online?

Real life?

Do they still look just as good?

A core candle??

Oops, LOl, I tried one without a core, I should post it, though burn time it a total laugh, maybe 3 hours, but they sure do look nice.

Anyone here attempted to make an ice candle? Are they hard to do?

I clean my polycarbonate molds by boiling them in water, then wiping them clean with a paper towels. I then air dry them for 24 to 48 hours before using them.

What temperature is your wax at? I dont; add the dye until my wax is at 180 to 190 degrees, and I pour at 180 or so.

Sorry for the dumb questions, I am new at this.

To get a translucent look in molded candles you should start with straight refined paraffin wax rather than a pre-blend.

I am not using a preblend if you mean already with additives such as scent and coloring.

You'll still want to use an additive to get a smooth non-mottled look, help bind fragrance oil and harden up the wax a bit for a good burn. An easy one to use is Universal Additive. In smaller amounts it preserves a lot more translucency than Vybar and some other additives. You should need less dye to get deep colors.

I am guessing the universal additive van be found at alomost any supplier. As for the mottled look, what does that look like? Sorry, I am very new to this.

You might also want to experiment with the Fischer-Tropsch additives that are typically sold under the name Clear Crystals or Translucent Crystals, or under the brand name Paraflint.

These help to create tranparent wax? Nice, I will look into them.

Another question, which helps color stand out as deeper and stronger, less opaque, or more opaque? Opaqueness can be controlled with additives such as vybar, right?

I edited my post. Sorry, a little early here. Anyway, stong colors, and I am making pillars and molded candles.