waxdragon

The wax is lighter than the water and will float. If it cools without being disturbed it will not be mixed. The solid wax can be dried off with a rag and then be re-melted.

Try putting containers in water and heating above MP of the wax. Cool water and pick the wax off of the top of the water. The containers will be as good as new with no oily residue. Start back where you messed up! This is my secret, please don't tell anyone!

I have built a 16 vat melter. 10 6Kg and 6 25 KG vats. The others I have build have worked quite well. This one is not as deep due to a mold heater in the bottom. The problem is due to its depth, I have a 30 degree boundary layer at the pouring valves. Anyone have any expirence it Thermodynamics? I need to passivley move it down just a few inches. I am thinking baffles, but how high and low should they be? The other choice is moving the element down a few inches. That is a last resort due to the high tech epoxy tank lining! There is only 5 inches from floor of tank to valve pluming, I know, what was I thinking!

If anyone is still with me, please submit your opinion!

I build my own water jacket melters. I have 9 10Kg vats with pour spouts in the first one. 9 10Kg, 2 40Kg 3 8Kg pouring vats and 9 10 Kg overdip vats. Coated the water tank with spray on bed liner inside and spray on closed cell foam on the outside. The engineering was a challenge on the big one, but both use a 1500 watt hot water heater element that costs under

$10. Costs about $20 a month to run. I cool the whole room with a tiny window unit.

I use it a good bit. It is great for votives. I also use it for casting figurines from RTV castings. The prill form is great, I keep it in a hopper that holds 400 pounds. The only thing is the color is sometimes inconsistent. Also, I pick it it up or freight it in by the pallet. Will UPS handle it?

I have been making small RTV castings with great success. I have been working on a series of larger ones (8"-1.5Lbs) for several months. The finish is rough and dull. Anyone know how to smooth and brighten the finish without overdipping?

Anyone out there knowledgable in thermodynamics? I am building a large scale melter with a water jacket. The pouring valves are gelling at the valve. Has anyone encountered this problem and been able to solve it? I have tried a passive circulation tube that has proven unsuccessful. It seems to defy physics. Please help!!!!

I have been learning to make molds like that. Run a couple pours with something hard, like 2818 at about 170F. It should pull enough dye out that it will not transfer, the mold however will remain stained for awhile, but it should not hurt anything. A few extra pours of Astorlite V will work also.

Out of curiosity, what wax are you using?

Anyone know where I can find a "Dog Poop" or "Skunk" scent? I need something offensive for a novelty line.