DamifinoEac

6 hours ago, Yorkie Girl said:

I have leather and lace from Texas Candle Supplies, I found it not quite strong enough.  

Have you checked Lonestar? They have a very strong Leather.

Sounds great to me!

I am still a greenhorn, but I enjoy blending to create uniqueness. With that said, I believe this would be a great opportunity. I'm following. 

2 hours ago, DamifinoEac said:

I ran into this problem with 3.75 wide straight sided, using custom soy blend wax. Working with advise from TallTayl, some wicks curl out depending upon the "threading" of the wick. I now place my two wicks to curl in opposite directions when lit. You essentially have 2 melt pools converging, but the jar does not overheat. Look in this subforum a couple months back, and it should give you some ideas. Happy to help! 

Forgot to add the link to a post, with curl info...

I ran into this problem with 3.75 wide straight sided, using custom soy blend wax. Working with advise from TallTayl, some wicks curl out depending upon the "threading" of the wick. I now place my two wicks to curl in opposite directions when lit. You essentially have 2 melt pools converging, but the jar does not overheat. Look in this subforum a couple months back, and it should give you some ideas. Happy to help! 

Follow up after testing:

1. Used flat tin lid and twisted the Premier wick, holding inch above stem tab, for one full turn. Secured to inverted lid, sans wax and lit. As the wick burned, it did "unwind ", and the flame stayed centered 😁 even tho the wick curl turned! Yay! that's a positive step for a uniformed melt.
2. Flat tin lid inverted, set non twisted Premier wick sans wax, and lit. The wick curled toward the crimp indentation of the tab! Did a second try with a new wick, and same result. So, there's another positive step.

Thanks to both of you for your help. This forum is just full of great people offering great advice. It's much appreciated 

7 hours ago, TallTayl said:

I would test burn a couple not installed in the jar and see if the dimple on the neck of the tab from the crimp machine gives some indication. 

• great idea, and I will try this, easy test!

in my jars the Premier 700 series curl isn’t as pronounced as cd or CDN so I don’t sweat them so much in my jars/waxes.
 

a twist can work well in some waxes and in some cases.  Soft waxes, though, will not hold the tension of the twist well at all and can untwist.  Two things I learned from twisting tests:

 

1) you have to be careful to twist up the whole length of the wick.  The weakest point of a wick assembly  is at the point where the wick is crimped in the tab neck. Holding the wick yarn above the metal tab helps evenly twist the length of the wick. Twisting while the wick is secured in the jar puts most of the torsion of the twist at the weak spot, not evenly up the length of the wick.  the twist wants to form there at the easiest spot to give,  and stay there.  That weak point at the crimp is where any leaning will begin in soft waxes. Cd and CDN wicks are annoying with the leaning from the sheer weight of the wick in soft waxes. 
 

2) Twisting cracks the prime wax, so as wax forms a melt pool during a burn the wick material can soften and flop more without the rigidity of the more solid prime wax. I’ve seen some wicks without a good prime buckle under their own weight. 

 

I DO twist unprimed bleached square in palm and beeswax.  Both of those waxes are super rigid even during a burn, so the twist remains firm from top to bottom in the finished candle. 

• I use a C3 blend, so it is a soft wax and will give the twist method a shot in my next test candle, making sure to twist BEFORE setting the wick🙂
• thank you for your insight, much appreciated! 

 

8 hours ago, CandleLab PDX said:

Not sure if that is possible.

Actually learned something new on https://www.reddit.com/r/candlemaking/

Secure the wick with a twist in it. Then as it burns the curl will slowly rotate thereby keeping the melt pool more even. 
running a test on this now.

 

Interesting thought, would not have thought about this. I seem to always have bits of wax come off the cd wicks when using bow ties, but I will give it a shot with the premier. Thanks for the input, and let me know if you get favorable results and I will do the same later today when I run a test.

Thanks to previous posts I have read (thanks TallTayl), I understand the cd and eco curls completely, and I utilize in my anchor jars. However, I have switched to Premier 795 for a 3.5 width straight sided glass vessel I am testing. I cannot figure out how to determine the curl direction before setting the wick accordingly?

TIA🥴