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Kmmart

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Posts posted by Kmmart

  1. 3 hours ago, TallTayl said:

    Wht fo load are you using? 

     

     how long are you curing? Not much beats cure time. 

     

    Orherwise i’d consider using a higher melt point paraffin or a higher melt point soy blend like 444 to help control the sweat/seepage. 

    We had previously used c-3. We dealt with so many sink holes. So we started poking relief holes and doing a second pour on all the candles just to be safe. We have used this same process with the 464. I’m starting to wonder if that is what’s causing the seeping. It seems when we don’t do a second pour then they don’t seep. 

  2. 2 hours ago, TallTayl said:

    Wht fo load are you using? 

     

     how long are you curing? Not much beats cure time. 

     

    Orherwise i’d consider using a higher melt point paraffin or a higher melt point soy blend like 444 to help control the sweat/seepage. 

    We have done 6% fo load. The candles sweat within about 1-2 days. When it cools down during the evening the wax absorbs the oil only sometimes. So I’m assuming humidity is playing a role. However, if my candles are this sensitive to humidity I won’t be able to ship in the summer. 

     

  3. 1 hour ago, LittleMissSunshine said:

    I'm doing a 50/50 blend of them. I have not gotten any soot on the rim of the jar, but all my wicks I've tried so far have been too big and flicker and smoke a bit. I'm doing a cd-12 in an 8oz tin right now and about an hour into the first burn it is perfect. No smoke, no flickering, flame is just a perfect little beauty. We'll see if that continues. 🙂 I've been lazy and taking my sweet time, but I would love to have found the sweet spot. I have high hopes for this one. 75/25 has a much prettier appearance IMO, but the only two I made at that percentage caved in when I tried to light them lol. 

    I just made samples this evening with coconut wax and 464 instead of coconut oil. Hoping they turn out! I just switched to 464 from c-3 because of the lower melting point. But 464 is giving me terrible tops and frosting.  Might have to look into the 4630 if I can’t get the coconut wax to work. When you say 75/25 do you mean 75% soy? 

  4. On 5/31/2019 at 4:57 PM, LittleMissSunshine said:

    I am loving blending it with 4630. Still really easy to work with, get the nice creamy look of soy without any of the ugly frosting or cottage cheese look when burning. Plus I'm assuming the throw will be much better when I get there. Still have to cure, but I guess that's okay. The burn seems really manageable too, so I love that. 

    Do you mind sharing what percentage you blend the waxes? Do you see any soot buildup when adding coconut wax or 4630? I have tried coconut oil with 464 but seem to get soot even when it’s a Teaspoon per pound. 

  5. Here are my results with my tests burns. Do any of these look correctly wicked? The CD 26 burned out well but has soot buildup on the sides and smoked a little. The HTP 1212 had a thin film of wax that didn’t quite clean up. The coconut wax blend seemed to clean up well on the jar, but didn’t have a full melt pool while burning down. Overall, I’m still not sure What to do with this jar. The client would prefer a single wick. 😩9AE4782B-01D3-4B4F-8064-965D981E9463.thumb.jpeg.64f7ec6e265a3d22fdfab41a1fd4961e.jpeg7ABD205E-B68B-46E3-8524-F1D8290B3FF8.thumb.jpeg.ac322cdc41e2c5d06c5ad32cd529399e.jpegAB07C938-A9A1-438C-8642-F0A588F183B4.thumb.jpeg.4740120fef45262803e1a11f701ab259.jpeg6261716E-4D38-4C4F-B786-2551E8230051.thumb.jpeg.f4a16f629425cce28519b3b581c1e7d3.jpegB4486CA8-E2F2-4AC4-B0E2-45AD437D110D.thumb.jpeg.bb8e7b36281a6acdc33894d1b73e67ec.jpeg336A884A-BE34-4204-835A-A87A74A58671.thumb.jpeg.423e0894b5edc0966f6f5f229ee4237b.jpeg2B012962-A169-4B8C-B711-A32DDD41EBEF.thumb.jpeg.fa437ba6042f4f17dde4ae5ad419a88d.jpegA236E7B6-3D9C-49E7-BAC2-F1A202551391.thumb.jpeg.af2e929902471a80db7b4c584df4cd51.jpegEC6F1962-E7FB-4D01-A857-2630AD1F6789.thumb.jpeg.886d922f831051f112eea9b96ceda140.jpeg13E0258E-AC49-48C4-B731-9BE0885BB57D.thumb.jpeg.bf4f0384be5fa10846ea3290731a23e0.jpegFC3A7DA6-F31C-444E-BE66-405F5CF1E781.thumb.jpeg.046326547f602bc5a0ac2cf2453c4d27.jpeg4B3F6237-6709-4094-B4C9-F8DEA65C18D2.thumb.jpeg.51364ba6de6e5e99fca20cfcef23ec39.jpegE32C3528-4A08-4414-BB06-B577D9DD47A7.thumb.jpeg.672624b961aa4837bd7dae36f2d979c0.jpeg73251972-4B0B-4B99-924F-485F7B28D40D.thumb.jpeg.185fb6638326adf1adfc9a4581a64128.jpeg2B44837E-037D-4B8F-9CF7-AF43E2D15B17.thumb.jpeg.fdd049665dd9ce797132da8a95da04f7.jpeg

  6. 23 hours ago, TallTayl said:

    You don’t need a full melt pool on the first burn. That will clean itself up later.

     

    But you might want to consider double wockong on that size vessel. C-3 is a very hard wax to burn.

    I attached a photo with the largest diameter I can get melted with a 4 hour burn. The wick is a HTP 1312. Does this look like it would be improperly wicked? 

    1F0F3EED-8F12-42E6-8036-781943D91E69.jpeg

  7. Hello! I am new here! I am having an extremely difficult time wicking our candles with the c-3 wax. 

    The jar is 4” but inside is only 3.5” in diameter. 

    We have tried eco14 and eco 16, and HTP 1212 and HTP 1312. 

    We can almost achieve a full melt pool without hang up with the Eco 16 and the HTP 1312. However, the flame is huge, mushrooms, and dances all over the place. 

     

    Do I need to be looking for a new wax? Any insight would be wonderful! Thanks! 

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