Simon-RSA

wick composition and design is specific to the wax type (veg or crude derived). Veg waxes are generally lower melting point, higher viscosity and larger large molecules.  Wick symptoms are caused by poor combustion and ventilation.  Wick material and make up, influences how much liquid wax is delivered to the flame. Generally if too much fuel is delivered to flame, you end up with incomplete combustion, and  the result is soot/carbon build-up.  Hence mushrooming. Wick composition and material types, that make up various wicks and sizes have the effect of either retarding or enhancing fuel flow to keep the flame burning. Certain wicks also burn hotter than others, the function of this is aimed at the various base wax melting temperature, wax molecular structure and container sizes.  So generally the wax viscosity at a specific melting point will have major influence on flame size and tendency to mushroom. 

9 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

I found the most success with eco in C3 also. 

9 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

I found the most success with eco in C3 also. 

9 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

I found the most success with eco in C3 also. 

FO I always ensure that manufacturer supplies FO designed for soy wax. what I've experienced with C3,  is that the FO volatility, significantly affects how the candle cools and sets up. The outcome is immediately obvious soon after pouring. Generally a longer congealing time and affects the crystal structure and poor, dull surface. FO that is generally unstable has this effect with C3.  I have found C3 quality to be consistent.  I've worked with various container sizes, produced in Winter and Summer. No problem with single pour. I had to experiment with wet spots. This was found to be pour temp dependant. I confirm C3 is indeed a single pour for my current set up.  I am however experimenting to optimise natural blend costs. We don't have access to coconut wax. So I'm aiming to produce my own natural wax blend.  Directionally I'm tending to Soy + coconut oil + beeswax.  Coconut oil is roughly 1/3 price of C3.  Generally in most formualtions soy can be substituted for beeswax. However when using coconut oil it needs to have the beeswax to bind the free oil.  % addition Bwax will vary to balance and optimise the cost. I've found C3 performs well in the few wax blends todate.  Eco flame height influenced by the low melt point component. My wax blends show that C3 does tolerate some blending. I guess any reduction that results in comparable performance is what we strive for. C3 is my soy wax of choice. and Eco is my wick of choice. 

On ‎11‎/‎8‎/‎2018 at 5:00 PM, Annie9 said:

I tried the C3 in pint mason jars (regular mouth) with HTP104 wicks and I had sooting and a large flame. I ordered the HTP 93 to try for this jar size. Is HTP the best wick for C3 wax?  Any recommendations are appreciated!

I find that ECO wick works well with Naturewax C3. This was recommendation from Candle Science. They offer a free evaluation and recommendation service. They will request unwicked wax and fragrance in the actual container sizes you will be using. They then suggest various wicks. I tried their service and it worked out pretty good. They do however stress that this is a recommendation and that actual tests need to be performed under your own conditions. 

On ‎10‎/‎3‎/‎2018 at 6:42 PM, Quentin said:

I have had these question in the back of my mind and keep forgetting to post them. When I've been instructed to add fragrance at xxx degrees, I've noticed that there is an immediate drop in the temperature of the mix. Sometimes a dramatic drop. Often dipping below the pouring temp. range. I know WHY that is happening, but not sure what to do about it.

 

Do I just keep stirring for two minutes or so and pour regardless of the what the thermometer tells me, or do I need to raise the heat back up to the pouring temperature? The other question is similar. As I'm pouring from the pot to the mold or container, the temperature obviously starts to drop. Do I stop pouring and heat it back up again or just pour till I'm finished?  

 

The only information I've found that is even slightly related to this subject has been something to this effect: "Never put the pot back on the heat source and leave it while you're working. This could cause your fragrance to "dissipate".    I'm not buying THAT idea. If that were true, you would never be able to reheat your wax for the second pour!  You could never save any leftover wax to use on another project. I think the candle making hobby/business is full of folklore and anecdote that has been passed down from generation to generation and accepted as truth but never checked out by many of us. What IS the answer to my two questions?  This makes me wonder about the consistency of the product I'm producing. Calgon, take me awaaayyyyyyy... 

wax temperature,  will decrease typically 5 degC, immediately after adding cold FO. If you know your pouring temp, heat wax to 1within 5 - 10 degC  of target pour temp, add FO and stir. Pour when you hit your target temp. Adjust temps as required (yes heat or cool as required).  Temperature is the most important condition to satisfy. Here is a general rule that works: Wax congealing Point (A) + ambient room temp (B) = T1. Calculate the value (A) - (B) = T2.   Now add T1 + T2 = T3. T3 is then be your wax melting point target. Be sure to compare and adjust to manufactures recommendations.  Add FO around 10 degC above your pouring temp.  You will find a lot of consistency built into your process. It takes care of the various temperature differentials.  Try it and let me know if this works for you.