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Annie9

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Posts posted by Annie9

  1. I have been using Ribbon wicks from NorthWood along with their soy wax for years and now the ribbon wicks are discontinued.... I love their soy wax, but it is very expensive. So now I’m left looking for a new soy wax and wick combination that gives a great HT like the ribbon wicks gave. Any suggestions that work great together?!

  2. On 10/1/2019 at 4:34 AM, JLee said:

    Just found this site. I too am frustrated with all waxes,wicks etc. I thinking of trying 6006 but don't want to waste tons of money. I typically use 8oz mason jars and ribbon wicks and FOs from CS  and Northwood Candle supply. Ive been using soy wax from Northwood and haven't been able to get good CT/HT.  I've tried the 464 and had nothing but issues. Been at this for several years and just cant get the right combination.  Can anyone give advise on whats the preferred wax and wicks. 

    Hello, so I have been using soy wax and Ribbon wicks from NorthWood for years, and now the ribbon wicks are discontinued. I love the soy wax from NorthWood, but it’s so expensive. And now I need to find a good wick that gives a great HT. I would love any great soy wax and wick combos that work great for 16oz mason jars!!!!

    thank you!!!

  3. 3 hours ago, Trappeur said:

    What combo's have you tried?

     

    Trappeur

    I have tried Ecosoya 210 with Eco wicks which was bad, Ecosoya 210  with LX 18 wicks ( worked good for some, not so good for others, depending on FO I suppose), and I have tried C3 wax with HTP 1212, HTP 104, and I just made some today with HTP 93. The last ones I made with the 104’s had a lot of soot, so I’m going to try wicking down. The Ecosoya wax has hardly any scent throw, so I’m done with it. I’ve heard the C3 and 464 are pretty comparable. Now I just need to find the right wicks for C3...

  4. On November 3, 2015 at 10:35 PM, Trappeur said:

    Hello Sledge,

     

    I used extensively for 8 give or take years c3.  The reason I switched was for none other than the fact that one day I ran out of the wax and it wasn't in stock at Candle Science at the time so being that I had been ordering quite a bit from Alabaster (Now Community Candle) it was suggested by Paula the owner to try 415 which I did.  Iiked it somewhat and I could use the same size wicks as I did in the C3, but I didn't like waiting to pour till it got to the slushy state about 100 degrees.  Then the owner of Community said I might like to try 464 as it was pretty similar she said to the 415 but I could pour hotter.  So I did give it a whirl and really liked it and could pour where I do now anywhere from 140 up to 150 give or take.  I still use c3 now and then since I mastered it and I do love it and I also love the 464...Both I can use the same size wicks.  I did find the c3 would produce more wet spots than 464.

    I used to dye my candles but couldn't deal with the frosting which soy is a stickler for so I went au naturelle and never looked back.  They both put out great fragrance throws of course depending on the oils you find compatable.  I can pretty much do a 1 pour with both waxes meaning not having to do a second thin pour on the top.

     

    I agree with Kandlecrazy said and Old Glory too.  If you have a supplier close to you where you could drive to or someone close enough where shipping is reasonable I definitely would get my products there and learn  to master that wax.  It will save you dollars in the end.

     

    With the c3 I primarily used htp wicks.  With the 464 I can get away with the htps but have really settled on the cd's.  I know Old Glory who uses 464 uses premiers.   And like Kandlerazy said with soy you have to learn to embrace certain characteristic things with each wax.  So true.  I have never had to use any additives except uv inhibitor being that I sell to shops and all of them have flourescent lighting.  Even a few fragrances still turn yellow with using the uv so I try and stay away from certain fragrances when selling to shops.  I can't stress enough too that curing is so important in attaining a great throw.  I do 2 weeks for the 464 or c3....but this is just me.  If your dying you can pretty much expect to see frosting in both waxes.  So either you learn to embrace that feature or get a frosted jar or color jar or go au naturelle.  What ever choice you make, either the c3 or 464, you picked 2 great waxes and I don't think you need to look any further or try changing to something else.  Just have to have patience, time, persistance and lots of money you will spend on all the fabulous and not so fabulous oils out there! ha! lol  Good luck and keep us posted of your findings.

     

    Trappeur

    This was so helpful! I am going to try 464 with CD wicks for my glass mason jars. Which wick size do you recommend for regular mouth and wide mouth mason jars?

  5. 41 minutes ago, kandlekrazy said:

    I think you will find that not everyone uses the same wick in each wax type.  My local supplier recommends HTP in C3, I didn't like them as they didn't have enough sizes for my jars and were either under or over wicked.  They worked well in the round tins.  I use cotton core wicks in C3, I've had better luck with smaller flames and sooting.  That being said you can't overwick any type or it will soot and some fo's are just prone to soot (one is high vanilla content).

    Thanks for your help! It can be so frustrating to find the right wax and wick combo. I always use mason jars, both regular and wide mouth. So the diameters are a little different, but both are between 2.5-3”. I will keep searching for the best wax and wick combo for these jars! I also tried Ecosoya 210, and while they make pretty candles, the scent throw is pretty low...

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