Alona

On 3/13/2010 at 12:58 PM, Candybee said:

That will of course depend on your base and you will have to test the recipe and make adjustments as needed. I am trying to post recipes in the amounts that should work for most bases. Unfortunately there are some bases that simply do not take oils and butters well.

If you find that adding the shea butter compromises the lather of your finished soap then cut the amount or try adding some shaving base or liquid soap like Dr. Bronners for additional lather.

I know others have posted here about having success with adding lather to their base by using the liquid soap or shaving base. Dr. Bronners you can get at most any store that sells liquid soap; drug stores, health food stores, etc. The shaving soap is a M&P base that can be purchased at a supplier who carries M&P bases.

candybee could i use a recipe for the melt and pour base sold already made.  Yours are added to the base or no?  Im lost

On 4/25/2018 at 12:20 PM, Sarah S said:

 

Forrest, I was not impressed with the fragrances I have tried  from JS. Nor have I been wowed by Maple Street, or Save on Scents. Nature's Garden has some great oils, but personally I have more success with them in soap than wax. For candle fragrance, I am consistently pleased with Rustic, Aztec, Bittercreek and recently Candle Science. I just ordered some bakery types from Indiana Candle Supply, and OOB they smell incredible, if they deliver in wax that might be my go-to for that type. 

Candlewic, Flaming, and Filmore have some great ones as well, and cater more to the chandler than the B&B crowd. 

I live in the mid-Atlantic, so I tend to shop "locally" as it were, which helps with the shipping. If you live on the west coast, you might be looking for a completely different supply chain. 😆

I know that was way more info than you asked for, and of course it is just my nose's opinion, I know others have their favorites too!

Im in north florida so have to check out those close to me. I will venture out more once i see shipping costs though. Some of the shipping is so much for so little. Im new 😮 i have to start somewhere.

I have not mastered candles soy its melts for me. I will start ordering oils this summer so i can be ready.  The people that are ready to suppport me either buy both melts and candles or just melts.  Theres no since in sitting out the game just because the candles arent ready lol.  Brambleberry has a farmers market line out. May give them a try.  Anyone try essential depot?

On 4/29/2018 at 12:45 PM, Candybee said:

To me it doesn't compare. AH version is the best and only one I use. I will order it anyway even if it is the only FO I need from AH. When that happens I usually order more than one lb to offset the cost of shipping.

Please explain the abbreviation. Im new lol

I like it but am willing to buy the saveonscents one to compare.  

3 hours ago, Trappeur said:

Well I would say the wick is too big and I don't like the black chips of wax floating around.  The flame is rather tall and it looks like a rather deep melt pool depth has developed which is only going to keep getting deeper.   I'm thinking that this style wick needs to be changed.

 

Trappeur

Good morning. What wick would you suggest?  When i lit the candle the 1st time i knicked the wax

This is almost 3 hours of burning. Theres another with a lx 22 wick but its not cured yet.

On 4/28/2018 at 12:40 PM, Sarah S said:

 

$19 for 10lb of soy? Soy that probably still needs 10% fo load to generate good throw? The reasons for using this wax are becoming less viable by the minute. 

O so it was cheaper? Hmmm

3 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

The wick sizes are much too big. Those series should work fine, just bump down down down a good bit. 

In that size container an eco 4 is about as big as I go. Cd6 is where I’d start on the other.

 

coconut wax is entirely different from every other wax available. It’s closest to 4630 paraffin. 

Wow that wick guide is tricky. Ok i will put these out and remove the wicks and insert a eco 2 and a 4. I spooned the melted wax into one of my rose candy molds lol.  Thank you very much. 

This wick i am sure this wick series wont work. Cant smell a thing and there is a thin line of black smoke flowing from the flames.  Should i try the lx series or htp?

So I made two sets of candles.  I have coconut83 wax from California candle supply.  Eco series wick and fragrance from candlescience.  The first photo includes 6oz candles with a fragrance of 6% coconut lime/ Himalayan bamboo.  The candle on the left is eco 14.  The candle on the right is eco 12. Those flames are high!

The second photo includes 6oz candles naked. The left candle is eco 14. The candle on the right is eco 12.

Starting 2nd burn. Q230 lx 24 plain wax.

Taken 7:07 and 7:21pm now 

Someone i follow on YouTube already bought a few boxes. She said she will do a review soon. I sure hope that this is the soy you all loved.

3 hours ago, Grani L said:

I wonder was it some type of Regulation that was above their heads that caused the havoc. I am very tempted to give it a try, but  hate for it to be a wash out and  waste my money.  No smaller sizes I guess? Geez....what gives?

 

10lbs are available for $19

Candle science sent an email that this wax and ecosoya pillarblend is back. Any thoughts?

K

1 week.

2 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

You should be able to carefully pull the wick out and thread the new one down the hole for testing. 

Oo. Even if its pretabbed and hot glued down?

9 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

In my opinion, that is a bit overwicked. By the midpoint it will likely be very hot. Glass holds heat efficiently, so the remaining wax in the jar melts very easily, forcing more fuel into the wick. More fuel = bigger, hotter flame which in turn melts more of the remaining wax. 

Ok. CandleScience recommended going up a size so i will wick with a lx22 6".  Do i need to burn this candle anymore since its overwicked?

On 4/12/2018 at 3:29 PM, Sarah S said:

Wanted to add, if you could give us more detail on your candle making process, that would be a big help with trouble shooting. Minimally we would need:

1. Type of wax, % of mix, manufacturer, etc

2. Size of wick and manufacturer or seller or series

3. Size of container

4. Fragrance oil and % used

5. Heating temp, FO phase temp, pouring temp

6. Cure time

 

...did I forget anything? Basically the more info you can give, the better! 🙂

Please see below. Hi

After over 3.5hrs if the first burn i made just a few notes. The wick gave an amber glow for about 2mins after putting out the flame. The smoke scent went all throughout the house. Rhe wax pool went out to the edge of the container. The glass was barely warm to touch while burning. I took pics after the burn. See below. 

Yes. Maybe the fragrances would perform better in the waxes you think?  Id like to see how this goes yes. 

This is q230 from aztec. Unscented no dye. 6.3oz. Lx 24 6" wick from CandleScience. 1st burn. I have the wick a tiny bit long.

5 minutes ago, Candybee said:

It's going to help you a lot more to chose one initial wax to work with and not jump from one to another. You won't learn that way. Pick one and learn how to work with it and everything will fall into place. Once you have learned all about that wax then try another. But learning about one will give you the experience and discipline to learn about another wax. It takes time and patience but diligence will get you there.

 

RE candle classes. I took a few at Candles and Supplies in PA. They still offer affordable classes and they are taught by experts in the candle making field. I learned a lot and it helped me enormously by watching the process and by doing hands on candlemaking in the classroom. But I also learned a lot from just reading through this forum and by jumping in and learning how to work with the wax I selected.

 

Thanks. I dont mean to sound like im rushing to sell candles tomorrow.  I just know the new waxes are frustrating to experienced candlemakers and so it is for me as well.  I do these at home so ive learned that i need to kep my house at 70 and heat jars in my oven and cure longer than 48 hours.  Wicks cost and so i have to buy them slowly. I have bought several containers and will test over time.  

What are your thoughts on candle classes.  I have seen courses offered from people who own bb companies for $99 to $500+  I see companies offering to make the candles for you for $600+.  I want to keep learning and my waxes and i read these posts and watch videos online.  Does anyone know someone who benefited from such courses?  I bought gb444 coconut 83 ecosoya q230 waxes and i dont care for all the fuss about formula changes.  For those who care about the greatness of beeswax i do want to learn beeswax. I bought some from bulk apothecary but i wanted to try busybee or glorybee.  I think parasoy would be better for me instead of straight soy.  I used my soy wax for melts/tarts and i liked it for that.

To those that responded to my earlier posts i chose waxes that obviously may have been fine in the past but have been reformulated and i learned quickly soy was not my friend haha.  Do you think joining a course would help?  You all are so helpful. Ive come across people who think if they told me what they know and use i would do their sales harm - at least thats how they seem to act imo.