Donna

I what to check with you C3 users about which wick do you get the best hot throw from? I currently use HTP wicks but have been testing CD wicks since some people say they have better hot throw than HTP wicks. I've heard some people like to use Eco wicks with C3. Just looking for feedback as to what you have found to have the best results. I'm personally not seeing any difference between CD and HTP. Thanks in advance....

Thank you....;)

For my container candles I add 3% coconut oil. I'm experimenting with USA and C3 for clamshells. I've got a question for you regarding that since it appears you use it for that...I assume the amount is 2% but at what temp do you add the USA? I've been adding at 185.

2 hours ago, 12MoonStudio said:

Speaking of ECO wicks, I have been using them quite often but am having and issue at extinguishing. They afterglow and smoking is quite significant. Even after putting a lid on the candle the wicks are still glowing red and take a good amount of time to extinguish completely.  I keep them trimmed. I'm using ECO 10's/12's for 8 oz straight sided jars with C3 and a FO of either .07% or .08%. My 4 oz tins with Eco 6 don't seem to smoke as much but still smoked more than I would like. Any suggestions on different wicks to try or advice is appreciated.  Thanks! 

 

I also use C3 and I changed to HTP wicks. I felt they extinguished much faster than the Eco wicks in C3. I use HTP 105 or HTP 126 in 9 oz straight sided tumbler. You might try them and see if you have better luck...

I'm going to try using Universal Soy Wax Additive to my C3 to try to harden it up so I can use it for tarts. Can someone who uses this tell me at one temp I add this? I know to use 1 to 2% but I have not found anything about when and at what temp to add...any help is appreciated...

1 hour ago, Grungedoll said:

I will definitely be looking into it! I just don’t have any idea how much I need... I have a feeling insurance is going to be the most difficult thing to figure out.

 

really, really basic question... how do you go about cleaning out your pour pot after making one batch of candles so that the wax/fragrance from it doesn’t go into the next batch? I have two different fragrances I’d hoped to make testers out of in the same time and obviously don’t want to mix scents!

 

first pouring hopefully happening tonight and I’m pretty excited about it!

Just take a paper towel and wipe out your pour pot. Then take alcohol and spray it down inside and wipe it down again. The scent won't transfer for batch to batch...or if you want you can wash the pour pitcher out with dawn and hot water, but the paper towel and alcohol works just fine..;)

Ellajoan I sent you a message as to who I think it is.

2 hours ago, Moonstar said:

Thanks for this ! Another thing that I thought was "off" was recommending to add FO at 150?

personally I think that too cool

but some on there claim it works 

everyone raves about the Driftwood, have you tried it ?

again, thanks for commenting, 

i really appreciate it 😘

I think 150 is way to cool. I would think they would have trouble getting a good mix. I always heat to 180...add FO at 170 and pour after 2 minutes which I try to aim for 160....but sometimes it doesn't always work out.. lol

Thank you I appreciate it... it all makes more sense now. If only there was a correct science for candle making...

On 3/23/2018 at 2:28 PM, birdcharm said:

 

Yes, as TallTayl described.  Are you burning in an enclosed area or a room that isn't a larger, open area?

 

What type of wax & wick, etc. are you using? 

 

 

I am currently using C3 with HTP wicks. I test by changing out wicks according to melt pool. Like I said I like a little wax left around the edges so it will catch up as it burns down, but there are just some scents that no matter what I try I can't get a good throw from. Some are overpowering some in my opinion are not worth the work. I guess I need to quit going by what others say about this great scent that they claim they are getting this out of this world hot throw from. I'm beginning to believe what one person considers strong hot throw, another considers weak hot throw. And yes the area is open which I realize can effect hot throw, but I still don't think I would have to be within 2 feet to even smell it.

7 minutes ago, TallTayl said:

It’s all dependent on the container. A full melt pool on the first couple of burns can mean a candle that is just plain too hot later in the candle’s life. You can’t judge a candle on the first burn, though with good wax, fragrance and the right wick it can begin to throw pretty quickly after being lit regardless of a melt pool. 

I try to aim for a little wax being left around the edges on the 1st burn but I usually go by the 1 inch per hour rule of thumb. Shouldn't I be getting good hot throw on my first burn if everything is done right?

That's what I thought. It is based on the diameter of the jar correct? So much mixed information out there.

My question is this... to get the best throw you want your burn pool to be 1 inch per hour according to width of container. Am I right? So in other words a 3 inch wide container should take 3 hours to reach full melt pool to achieve the best hot throw? I've been confused by this because you are always hearing that full melt should be reached in 2 hours which kinda goes against what I just said. Thanks for any advice and help in advance.

I hope this doesn't sound like a stupid question, but when you refer to poking around in the candle....do you do that right after you pour before the candle starts to set up?