Ladymvb

2 hours ago, Candybee said:

 

Set your jars on cookie or baking racks and set the jars about 1-2" apart. You want air flow over, around, and underneath your jars. This allows for more even cooling and will help with the problem of your wax hardening faster at the bottom.

 

When I set up for candlemaking I pull out my oven racks and place them on my countertops. Then I place my wicked jars on top of the racks so there is air flow underneath the jars. My jars are also set apart from each other so there is air flow in between jars. 

 

I pour very hot around 200-210 degrees F. The heat of the wax heats up the whole jar and the jars are set up so that air flows all around. That way my jars cool slowly and evenly allowing maximum crystalization patterns to form. I flip my jars just as the top layer has crusted over. I know when its ready by seeing the wax slosh around just underneath the crusted tops. Thats the perfect time to do the jar flip. I flip each jar and place it on the same rack so it will continue to cool evenly.

I set them on the cookie rack; however, I place a thick layer of paper towels and a styrofoam on top of the rack, and then put my jars on that.  I guess I should not do that?   Right?

I did something wrong. The bottom got solid before the top.  Do you all wrap your jars &/or place them under something so the cool slow?

I am going to try it tonight. Hopefully I can see the bubble 

I can do it. It is the easiest method. Do both of you use dye.  I also use clear jars but i can never see that doggone air bubble even with a flash light

Of all the methods this is the easiest and less time consuming. 

I know the flip action makes sense in theory, but I guess my only concern is the air bubbles are still there.  Suppose the bottom sets before it's time to flip. How can you tell where the bubble is?

Does anyone use wood wicks or ribbon wicks which their palm wax?  I am testing wood and it makes my wax soot and turn really dark

its harder with palm but its easier than having to remelt the wax and starting over. Imo

Thanks again

Thanks everybody.  I appreciate you guys so much.  So I will do full jars, wait 3 to 5 days before testing..

Also, I was planning on not doing  dye and FO doing my testing. Is anything wrong with that?

One other thing, when testing do you ever make the candle without the wick and then once it is hard, insert the wick.  And if that wick does not work right off, take the wick out, insert a different wick and hot gun the top so its even.  I did that with coconut wax and it was easier OR should I just test it all the way to the end and then make another candle if it does not work.  I know palm is a different character, so I want to make sure do it correctly.

If i just want to test wicks:

1.  Can i make half jar candle?

2. Do i still need tobwait 3 to 5 days before I test?

Thanks

I have a question about the flip method.  I notice the bottom of my jars get hard tgen the top. If i flip won't the air pockets be closer to the middle?

candybee  i have just started using glass glow.  how do you get rid of the air bubbles/pockets? or anyone  tia

heres a picture

yes  i have a wick trimmer  so it was cut 1/4  maybe im just not used to the tall flames.  i may try them again  thanks eveyone  so far im loving the palm wax

how long do you let it cure before testing

i just started working with palm. im having trouble wicking. also do you do relief holes, flipping method or some other method to get rid of air pockets/bubbles.

On 6/2/2018 at 9:25 PM, ncraiders said:

Ok the wick test for the size 16 CSN was a failure.  It did use a good amount of wax and has probably a 1/8 of an inch shell left after the final burn.  So for a single wick you would need a 18 to cleanup all the wax from the jar.  i found the melt pool depth to be around 1/4 inch or so the entire burn.  In 2 more days i will begin the dual wick testing with CSN 7 and 9.  The 16 will work if you don't want all the wax to be cleaned up off the sides of the jar.

 

A CSN 18 probably would of been perfect but for whatever reason we do not have the CSN-18 for sale in the U.S.  They only place i can find the size 18 was a site that ships from somewhere around China.  So onto dual wicks.

i tried csn 14, 12, 10 , and 8 and the flame was really tall in all if them  i didnt have any 6  or 4 tp try   

i tried the flip method but i dont know why that scares me so much   i am going to try the relief hole method