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Judette

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Posts posted by Judette

  1. Agree actually with all of you, except I do love castile. But, the only way I knew it got better with time was by trying it every couple of months. I make mine with sugar in the lye water and with coconut milk and half the time I add some type of clay. It is my favorite facial soap. I also make castille with infused calendula and chammomile flowers and add poppy seeds. This is my favorite winter time bath bar. Planning ahead for use or selling is essential. The longer the cure.....the better the bar, ime.

  2. Very pretty soap, but it would be way to drying for my skin. Yes, it would be a highly cleansing soap. Does the Vitamin E really help? I would think it would get lost in the saponification process.

    EDT Vitamin E I understand can be used to lengthen the shelf life oils.

  3. It does state 1-5 % FO or EO rate on the description page.

    Air Freshener/Linen Spray base is super easy to make. Add any of our Fragrance Oils at a rate of 2-5%, shake, then pour into sprayer bottles. Incorporates well with most fragrance and essential oils, but individual evaluation is always recommended. (If cloudiness occurs, you can usually add more base & this will greatly reduce or eliminate the cloudiness). No preservative or additional ingredients necessary.

    *** NOT FOR USE DIRECTLY ON SKIN. If you're looking for a body spray, check out our Moisturizing Body Spray or Cyclomethicone.

    ~ Spritz throughout the house, on pet bedding, in the car, in gym bags or anywhere that needs refreshing.

    ~ Spritz on a wash cloth and toss in dryer.

    ~ Spritz on air conditioner filters & the scent will permeate through the home.

    ~ Make matching scents for sachets & customers can easily refresh them.

    ~ 100% evaporation @ room temp (do not spray directly on furniture, bedding, animals etc)

    ~ Biodegradable, environmentally safe & vegan friendly. Meets C.A.R.B (California Air Resources Board) requirements for VOC compliancy.

    Usage rate: Add 1-5% fragrance or essential oil

  4. I use LX wicks alot. I suggest you wick up to a 20 or 22. I use the 18 and 20 in most 8-9 ounce jars. I don't use mason jars but I use a jar that is approx. 3 -3.5 inches in diameter. I have used for 4630 in the past and it is not a difficult wax to wick. Peaks is an excellent supplier. When you say that you had a 1/4" mp after an hour that would be the first sign to go larger.

  5. Sorry but I found that slow cooling under boxes or whatever a real pain in the butt. I poke all my containers in case of air pockets then heat gun the top to fill in the holes........only takes a couple seconds!! :cool2:

    I do the same thing. I have tried several one pour waxes and none actually were - no matter what cooling method. I poke. Sometimes the candle can be flat on top and lo and behold there is an air pocket around the wick. Looks can be deceiving.

  6. I have also read to use full water with HP. I am going to attempt my first batch this weekend. Somewhere I also read to add some sodium lactate to the mix. I need to find out how much. Hopefully an HPer will chime in. It is supposed to help with the smoothness that can be an issue with HP.

  7. She stated she did not gel it, so how could it have over heated? Need more info. Did you prevent gel? Frig or freezer? If not, did it gel and you didn't know it? I have left my to sit, uninsulated and uncovered, and go back to check on it and it is in gel stage. Could you have used less water than normal? Since this a recipe you have used many times before, I would say something in the calc is off. OR, maybe since you had TD in the top layer, it had something to do with it. TD can sometimes make stuff a little funky.

  8. I don't even bother to clean them. They always pop out clean and if not I can usually just wipe the tiny bit of wax out with a paper towel.

    I don't either. Only if I get a bunch of wax on the outside. Even then it doesn't really matter.

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