tamtam

I use the cello bags for packaging, I wrap the soap tightly in saran first, then fold the cello bag over and punch two holes, run a ribbon through it, then put the label on the back. I also punch 2 holes in the cello bag below the fold. This works really well, soap stays clean, you can see it and smell it and it looks pretty if someone buys it for a gift. It's weird, but I sell more since I started bagging them up instead of just a wrapped soap with a label on the back.

thanks, that's exactly what I needed!

I am trying to figure out how much FO to add per lb of soap base. I have found percentages, but how about just in regular measuring spoon amts.... I use generally about 1 tsp Per lb of EO, is it about the same for FO?. Or anyone know how much in tsp amt is a ml, I could measure it that way. In other words, how many ml per lb.? Thanks, I will try to look back at past posts too.

http://www.etsy.com/shop/catherinefilippelli

these are some of the prettiest, coolest MP soaps I've ever seen.

I have made quite a few felted soaps, they are fun and easy. I ordered roving online, I'll have to go back and check my sources. It is usually more expensive in a yarn store. If you google 'wool roving' you will find many sources, also on ebay. You want Merino or Corriedale wool. The price will range from about 1.50 - 3.00 an ounce. I believe you can do about 4 soaps from one ounce, if I'm remembering right.

ok I don't have the exact websites, but here are some sources:

Homestead weaver

Marrhaven

Peace fleece

Mielkes

Prarie fiber homestead

Deer run sheep farm

Paradise fibers

Has anyone had any experience using natural colorants for MP? Things like spirulina, tumeric, paprika, etc. I know you can use clays, micas and UM, but am wondering about others. thanks, I have searched but can't seem to find much info on using these in MP.

I do what others have said, let your overpour cool way down, I let mine cool down anyway to add the EOs. I don't measure the temp.. I never tried cooling off the shreds first but I bet that would help too. Have fun!

thanks all, the rose and lavender were soooo easy and I love the look. just shredded soap with the cheese grater and used a Pringles can. I plan on doing more of these in different designs and scents.

more recent MP

Herbal Essence

Wild Rose

Lavender

Thanks for all the good feedback, I'll have more in a few days. I'm having a ball and enjoy sharing my creations.

http://www.springcreeksoap.com/Lilac.jpg

this is a great example of MP swirl. I'm thinking in a log mold, but which do you think was poured first? the white or the clear purple? or both together? I would love to try this.

http://www.soapscentsinc.com/spascents1.html

check out this page, she has a stamped one. So I guess it is possible.

I posted some pics of my latest MP soaps in the gallery. I am planning to sell some soaps to a local garden center with a big gift shop. Mostly herbal, floral and a gardeners soap.

Some of my ideas so far:

Lavender, alone or in combo

Mint in various combos or double mint, ie, orange mint, rosemary mint.

orange blossom, with Neroli and orange EO

OMH

gardeners soap with herbs, clay and exfoliants

Chamomile, alone or in combo

Calendula, alone or combo

Rose, with rose clay and rose hip powder

Herb garden

Lilac

any other ideas?

OMH, top layer with honey and a little ( maybe too much) mica. Other layers with mixed shea and goat milk base, with a little cocoa butter and coconut oil, oatmeal in the bottom, and Dr. B's for bubbles. yummy.

Made in Pringles can, with lime and lemongrass EOs.

no name yet, blue mica and pearl mica in clear for the top. Scented with EO blend. oops sorry the pics are so big, I'll reduce next time.

The Dr B soap is super concentrated, I use about 2 tsp, or 1/2TBSP per pound. It is rather expensive, so you don't want to use more than you really need. If you don't add any oils to your base, just that little bit is plenty. If you add oils or other stuff that might cut lather, then maybe go as high as 1 TBSP. I add it after the base is melted, gently stir it in.

Per the Dr. B's- I would get the mild baby soap, more ounces for less money.

The biggest difference for me in bases is based on the ingredients. Many bases contain Sodium Laurel (or Laureth) Sulfate, SLS, which is a DETERGENT, used to boost lather. This is an industrial detergent, and is in most commercial soap, and is considered by those who prefer 'natural' ingredients to be harsh and not recommended. In my opinion, bases with this ingredient are no better or different than commercial 'soap'. If this is not a problem for you, then go for it. But for me, it makes a huge difference. I use SFIC because it does not contain any detergent ingredients, and it is the closest you can get to real soap other than from scratch CP or HP. Just check the ingredients, there are other bases out there without SLS. The choice is up to you.

yep it works great, I read about that trick online somewhere and tried it once, now every bar I make has a little ls added. I feel good about adding it, as it is real soap and you only need a tiny bit to make a huge difference.

you can get Dr. Bronners online or at any good natural/health food type store. It is VERY concentrated and will last a long time. They also make bar soap that is very good.

I found this woman on youtube who adds all this stuff to a MP base, then talks about 'curing' it... just wondering what ya'll think about it. I thought it was alot to add and not sure why she would have to 'cure' it. It might be awesome soap, and she has a business, so it must work out ok. Just thought I would post the link and get your opinion.

my secret ingredient is Dr. Bronners organic liquid soap, about 1/2 TBSP per pound. It makes incredible lather, and is real soap, unlike dish soap, which is technically detergent. I would think the dish soap would be rather harsh to put in soap. Any good quality liquid real soap should work, if you don't want to spend the bucks on Dr. B. I always have it around, so that's what I use. I usually add a little cocoa butter, coconut oil, or other oils that might affect lather, so I compensate with the Dr. B. I use SFIC base and my soap always has an awesome creamy non drying lather. HTH :smiley2:

I wondered if anyone knew about the ingredients of the EBC base... I couldn't find them listed, except for the natural base. I like SFIC since it doesn't have any detergents. If the EBC base is like that, I will definitely order some. TIA.

I love these funnel swirl soaps and I'm wondering has anyone ever tried it with M&P? I would think you would have to let the soap thicken up before pouring. I think I will try it and see what happens....

Here is a display of some of my M&P soaps, I love the look of using doilies or lacey cloths in baskets. The round ones were made in pringles cans. The green speckly one is rosemary mint with ground herbs. They are wrapped in plastic wrap with a label on the back.

I make a Rosemary Mint soap quite often, with ground mint and rosemary and EO's . The herbs don't color the soap, and actually turn kinda brown, but I grind them up fine so it gives the soap that 'herbal' look. I color the soap a mint green. I'll post a pic when I can find one. I use ground herbs- chamomile, calendula, mint, lemon balm, rosemary, lemon verbena, etc.- in alot of herbal soaps, just for the look, they don't really add any color or scent. Although the calendula does hold its yellow color and looks really nice.