shicks

 Millennium and cd wicks after 5 years of testing all the soys available I would like to try coconut wax have never tried paraffin or parasoy 

I would love to know as well I have been fighting with soy for 7 years now I went into a new gift shop in town the other day and was smelling candles, I wanted to support the shop so bought one,  the shopowner was excited about the line and they smelled awesome so I asked if they were soy she said no however, any candle properly wicked and properly trimmed will burn clean, so I paid 8 bucks for a little two oz travel container.......I went home and burned it , it lasted for two days........within fifteen minutes of lighting it smelled my whole house I could walk in the front door and smell it burning from master bedroom, it burned perfectly clean no soot and it was just plain ole parrafin marketed really nice brand was Aquessie very high end luxury candle but just parrafin and fragrance oil was extremely fragrant and clean burning.........anyway why why why do I fight the soy fight......is it because it was easier for the smaller chandlers to claim artisan soy and stand out ?

SHerry

On 3/26/2018 at 12:22 PM, Chandlery girl said:

I just started using millennium. I got a 50 pound case for 100 bucks I don't know why lol. I always used 464.. but I got so sick of the bubbles and frosting. I mastered scent throw in 464 though, with candle cocoon FO.. their oil is very concentrated. In 464, in most of candle cocoons oils I need less than .5oz per pound.I also use 2 oils from a place called theplace4candles. Patchouli and Apple cobbler, I use 1 oz pp. People smell the oils on me when I walk outside!!! Anyhow, with millenium I'm still testing with no avail. I have a good feeling about today though. I weighed out a pound, I found you need MORE than a pound if you are using 8oz jar since you MUST POUR THIS WAS WHEN EXTREMELY SLUSHY. My other mistake was not weighing. Also, curing. Millennium wax has a 3 to 5 day cure process. This time was my 5th try, heated to 165 ish, melted my dye chip at that point and mixed my fragrance at around 153. I added cooler last time cooler, but scientifically, FO won't bond molecularly at a cold temp. I'm not sure if this try will work. But I have a huge tester. Lol. Was trying to make 2 candles,but learning a new wax is a learning experience. 464 I can fix the frosting, wetspots,ect. And get amazing throw.. but it's time consuming... And I'm a sucker for knowledge... I ordered 10 pounds of 464 anyway since I'm opening an online shop in April which over 70 percent of the shop is candles and I need to produce.. funny, I order that w 20 dye chips and wick holders and it's 50 bucks then I look at that 50 pound bag I can't pick up (which I honestly think they screwed up and gave me more for 107 bucks and just shake my head. I'll be sure to post here at the end of the week

i am on my third bag of Millennium and not turning back  I use 7 percent as they suggest and I have literally had to go down on fragrance in some cases to 5  I have been trying since 2012 to get a fragrant candle testing so many and mostly c3  I had tried 414 464 advanced really all that was available and I am getting the throw I need and want and to me it is worth the extra bucks for this wax it does frost where my c3 did not..   I recently purchased a very small tin of an aquiessie candle it was 8 dollars for a two oz...it is not soy and I lit it and the whole house smelled amazing on this itty bitty candle made me wonder why I am fighting with soy all these years...I asked the lady if it was soy and she said no however any candle wicked right and trimmed right will burn clean.......she is right this one blew away even the millenium..........why do I fight so hard for soy......

11 hours ago, kandlekrazy said:

The C3 has been inconsistent as well.  I'm just breaking into a new lot but the last 2 lots performed differently.   I've always added USA and now I'm thinking about leaving it out just to see if the wax is more "normal". 

I can't pour C3 hot into containers or I end up with hidden holes and tunnels usually right next to the wick.  I pour slushy then wait until it's completely set up then I poke holes around the wick and 4 holes a bit away from the wick around the candle and do a 2nd pour or just heat gun depending on what I find.  Sometimes I get lucky and there will be a tiny bubble or tiny hole where the bubble was and I know that goes down further and poke there first but that's rare.

 

I pour right after mixing fragrance oil and have burned so many and don't ever poke holes or have caverns I do have the little champagne bubbles I wonder if the caverns are more existent per container poured in? The only time I experience sink holes is when I poured in jars where top is smaller than bottomand poured too high up in the top so I am wondering if they cool to fast in your containers as I have never needed relief holes or second pours with c3. I use the Libby 13 oz tumbler andsma

l square mason jars 

17 hours ago, wcgxxx said:

I will pour at 160 with my next batch and see if it works for me. 

 

Pour slowly I get beautiful tops 

1 hour ago, pughaus said:

What a head scratcher!  It's probably the camera angle but some of those spots really look opaque and like they're on the outside surface of the glass and not even near wax. Is this scalloped glass container one that you've used before without issues? 

Its the angle and the glass they are on inside I have shipped these glasses and used them for two years just not in 27 degrees and I usually don't ship candles priority so may have been close to engine? Then crazy cold?

On 1/31/2015 at 9:10 PM, puma52 said:

This Hot Process soap maker would NEVER look down my nose at anyone that makes M&P soaps...never...never...never!    I also love making Melt and Pour soaps! They are a quick fix for me and I use them in the shower as much as my Hot Process soaps.   

There are things that I can do with M&P that I cannot do with Hot Process. I absolutely love making both!

I have books on cp and I have tried and love me. It I know nothing about hp and what the difference is I need to look that up!

On 9/25/2013 at 7:49 AM, Candybee said:

Thanks guys! I started that recipe thread because I remember when I first started using M&P and had no idea where to begin. I learned so much here I wanted to pay it forward in a way that would help out those new to M&P.

If you really get into M&P and start selling a lot invest in a good rice cooker. I got an 8lb cooker to melt my bases in. I would put all my additives into the pot and heat them all up together. Then all I had to do was pour the soap into molds. You can make a ton of soap in a day that way by refilling it.

Good luck!

That is so sweet for you to pay it forward! I have been doing candles but And made a few soaps recently but want to really get creative I know there is a market and I love candles and soap and making them is so soothing I am off to look at your recipes I too have questioned wether cp soap or mp is where I will end up or both thanks again!

These really are beautiful I am afraid to show my first ones now .... I did not get this fancy

I shipped 48 candles from Texas to MA they were two day air shipped candles were poured and cured ten days were packed in  crinkled packing paper  and were beautiful before shipping I have shipped many Soy candles before but usually ground it was just cheaper for this order to use flat rate the destination was 27 degrees the day they were delivered and may have sat on door step for a few hours

wax is millennium Soy 7 percent fo in 6 different frAgrances all candles were effected 

 tried to pack exactly as I had packed and put a candle in my freezer all night and recreate issue and it was beautiful i am wondering if it was close to an engine and hot and then got so cold? I did pay for and have shipped a heat gun to the client who was willing to give that a try and most are clearing up but not all I have offered a refund if the candles are sent back customer is really wanting her private labeled candles to work and is being wonderful but I am stumped and wAnt to make sure I never  recreate this issue again

has anyone else shipped and had candles get these spots my guess is candles are pulling away from glass from the cold 

anyone have this happen anyone have any ideas I posted in general candles and no answer and I am afraid to do wholesale till I figure this out I have been shipping singles for a few years but never in 27 degree weather that. I am aware of I hear about issues shipping in heat but I have not heard about cold weather issues

thoughts ,  opinions , experiences help please! Makes me wNt to never ship again....

I melted c3 to 185 put in pour pot added fragrance and stirred 2 minutes and poured right away it was usually 160 ish and I got smooth beautiful tops slight wet spots occasionally these are the instructions that came with c3 I did not get a nicer candle pouring at lower temps 

I when I did the square mason jars that  have 7 oz  with c3 and eco 10 wick I got around 40 to 42 

On 2/20/2017 at 1:15 PM, Flicker said:

That seems like a pretty big drop for just adding to the pots. I work in a basement and that doesn't happen. One of two things I am guessing...
A. You are putting a very small amount, 1/2 lb or less in the pot
B. Your temp is dropping a lot when adding your fo
C. Your dial is at 185...but if you actually took the wax temp it is far less.

Yes as I have never used a griddle or heated anything  I do usually pour four lbs at a time and I have to let it cool to add fo and then stir 2 minutes and my wax is usually 16o at that point I pour mine from spicket as well I do not notice a big drop in temp

I poured 48 beautiful soy candles and shipped priority mail to a shop in another state the boxes came to her really beat up with six broken candles even though I had package very carefullyy then the ones that weren’t broke looked like this I have seen larger wet spots but this is like wherever the crinkle paper touched the glass it got spots I feel I’ll as it will be a major cost to me to replace or refund and I want to know what happened I have shipped before all the way to London with no issues these candles cured 2 weeks before ship I did not bubble wrap as this customer prefers all natural recyclable and i got crinkle paper but it looks like chicken pox in the candles. Do you think these spots will go away has anyone seen this before when shipping, ugggg shipping candles is not easy....

help..

I pour and sell natural no dye I have never even tried dye my customer base want natural And white creamy candles I only have two whilesale accounts as I am just starting wholesale  and I sell on Etsy and through Instagram I have not done shows but have done fundraisers and also have candles in local shops my customer base I only see natural no dye candles on their Instagram feeds alot of decor magazines I read use no dye candles so I think it depends on customer base to what they prefer i had a lady from a London shop see my Instagram and order cases of candles shipped to the uk she loved the white i don’t do private  labels but will be doing special pours both these clients have shop name listed and their logo but it also says my name hicks Chandlery special pour for....or Hicks  Chandlery in collaboration with most craft fairs and our local second Monday I see colored candles and they sell too just know your market

I Am in phone and not sure why this picture pistes in my string of precious picks u wanted to show the millennium with double cd4 wick and 7 percent Creme brûlée at the end of the candle I feel it won out I did test at 47 hours then put all away after three burns for a week and reviewed yesterday and today throw in  both waxes was great the cd wicks win out in cleanliness were great for this double wick jar will do more test before I chose wax mill is more expensive so I really need to do more testing I have others curing to test! I can pour c3 very smooth but milnium burned a bit cleaner more test

I just wanted to show the after burn look first is millennium with two cd 4 second is Millenium with two eco2 that is burning slightly hotter there is more crating in the hotter burn got me to thinking this wax needs poured at a lower temp so a hotter burn would make too dry more rough the third picture is 3 ex burn in a votive this time I burned 4 hours the eco 1 and wco2 with vent over and are now stuck in wax so I would have to clean up and carve them out the cd looks great

last picture shows my c3 burn that I am very unhappy with I did cure this wax too I am wondering why it did so badly with cream brûlée again the eco wicks are messy and the cd did better but I am now out of c3 I have went through so many cases over the years not sure what changes  but  all the bubbles discoloration  etc I think I am moving on I now want to only continue burning the Millenium and wicking it best I will be playing with fragrance levels and wicks but I feel the cds will be winners I have premiers to test next 

On 1/27/2018 at 8:11 AM, Trappeur said:

I'm thinking too that in the above picture the c3 with black soot looks like it's a bit underwicked but your not done burning....but that is too much soot in that candle so I would eliminate that wick if that were me.  The picture underneath looks great so far with a really nice clean burn and nice wicks so far..  I guess that is the Millenium wax right?  I don't know anything about that wax and your doing a 2 day cure?   Hopefully others who use that wax will come here and post how long they let their candles cure for in that wax.

 

Trappeur

The cleanest burn was Millineum with CD wicks!  burned beatiful it too needed a cure day 9 I burned after putting away at the half mark and I smelled it walking up to my front porch and it was in living room this is with 7 percent as recommended by american soy wax I may have to switch but more testing as it is more expensive and I can pour a prettier c3 I did have to heat gun the milleniums and I tried alot of different pour temps, funny I poured one in a glass that was too w ide for wick after 4 days I remelted and poured in my regular glass and it had a beautiful top but was poured at 160 so then I tried a few more at 160 wich is higher than recommended and they did not look pretty so I am wondering if it was that it was melted twice that made the beautiful top  and it threw amazing 

On 1/27/2018 at 8:17 AM, kandlekrazy said:

Totally agree with Trapp, plus with C3 I wouldn't add more than 6% oil.  Creme Brulee in every supplier I tried is pretty much knock your socks off strong after a 2 week cure using only 5% in C3.  Also your C3 candles will look more like the millennium after cured.  Not sure why some soy waxes don't need as much cure time but possibly additives?

THank  you i will try the 5% and a  cure I love the scent and it did throw after 9 days in these waxes but I will try your amounts and see if the throw is cleaner and stronger thank you!

SHerry

On 1/28/2018 at 9:09 PM, Clear Black said:

I hate to say this, but with a 48 hr cure time, these tests are fairly useless.  They will not be true to anything sadly, whether testing for scent throw or container burn.  Sorry to be the pessimist here, but I fear you are wasting your time and materials.

i did set them aside after a few days and am at about ten days,  and they are all throwing well, I put them away and now really see how the cure time versus add more oil make for a prettier burn!  Thanks!

On 1/27/2018 at 5:36 AM, Trappeur said:

Shicks, first off a 48 hour cure time is one of your main problems.  C3 I used for years defintely needs a 2 week cure time.  The longer cure time will defintely show how your wicks perform and you can then properly start making determinations of sizing on your wicks.   I would maybe start testing them around maybe 8 to 9 days and go from there.  But your not getting true results with a 2 day cure for sure.   I always found Creme Brulee being a heavier oil was a harder to wick wax.   And too don't forget some oils just don't work for that particular wax you are using.   Now for me I never cared for eco's in c3 as I found for me too much soot and those black streaks like I see in your candles.  I have always used htp's and cd's for my wax, but that is what worked for me.  I'm sure others will come here who I know use these waxes and give their input.  I really don't see 7% would make that much difference....

 

Good luck!

 

Trappeur

I put them away when they were about half burned and lit yesterday and I could smell one candle burning outside as I approached my front door it was a c3 with cd wick I feel that both waxes are throwing about the same  but yes the cd in both the waxes is burning cleaner!!!  I am going to retest with another flavor I feel that C3 cured and within driving distance needs to really be topped for  me to switch but more testing with better conditions to make sure my choice!  I have others curing ready for testing this weekend!

I have been testing for years but just starting to really sell and want to take on more wholesale accounts I am wanting to do one jar but three different lines each having its own label but the same packaging and 4 scents each with special releaseas of 2 spring 2 summer 2 fall 2 winter ,room sprays and tarts for each scent and thats it so reading your post made me feel that simplicity will work best I also sew and paint furniture and want to do other things and have minimum stuff around. Welcome back!!

I am one hour into my third burn and so far the millennium is burning prettier and cleaner than my go to c3 I have separated candles in different rooms etc the millennium with eco 1 and cd4 are both impressing me however more testing with a longer cure as even with all these burning and a 48 hour cure I am not getting a strong throw with creame brûlée so I am sure I will switch waxes just over the looks of burn alone my daughter in a blind test of not knowing what was what picked cold throw of millennium over c3 I did finally get smooth tops pouring millinium at 100-115 more labor and patience 

when  I walked by or swept my hand across the flame 

Of the candles with c3 there was black soot when flame was disturbed I then swept my hands and did all I could to recreate with millennium and no black soot with cd or eco wicks

to be fair I used 7 percent fo and millinium says that is ideal where c3 recommends 6so that may be why it is smoking and not burning as pretty but I have cured c3 with 6 percent for months in the past and 6 percent did not throw well

I will continue to burn all the way down and test each scent and suck with new wax so a lot more time but I feel it is going to be worth it!

Thank you Candybee I never tested all at once I did not think about airspace!! Great suggestion with marking on the jar as these will get moved around in different spaces to test throw 

I have been testing both c3 and millennium I have  in the past tested 444 464 cb135 and ecosoya advanced I have preferred c3 out of those but liking the no bubbles and clean burn with millennium and the last test I did I felt throw hot and cold might be superior but had to make sure as millennium is more $$ and for me a bit more work with waiting to pour so 

I have cream brûlée at 7 perecent in each wax and am testing each with eco 1 eco 2 and cd 4. The jigger glasses have one wick and tumblers are double in the past I have had a time double wicking c3 but am using smaller wicks will be separating these into rooms for throw test as well will get back with the winner!

Last year I tested so many wood wicks I did not get that debris I was careful to when candle rehardened after a burn turn upside down by a trash can and punch off burned part but most  users are not going to do that I had the best luck with lonestar woodwicks more so than all others I did not nor do I know what a booster is though what is a booster I have used all the wiodwick companies I even tested the wood circles you wrap a cotton wick with 

iin my wax the throw was better with wood wick however the melted wax took on a browner look and the cold throw of candle after a burning was not pleasant to me with c3 i got way more crackle with 6 percent oil than higher percentages 

 I used a medium woodwick  in a 8oz mason jar and large in a 13.5 tumbler some fragrance oils struggled after setting a few months I had a friend burn a candle tha was older and she had trouble keeping lit so I pulled older ones off shelve and even though they tested fine at 2 weeks after months some were struggling so I got nervous about reliability and went back to traditional wick