HorseScentS Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Oh, shoot, ChandlerWicks, I just thought of something I had completely forgotten about. When you first light a candle it's common for the flame to stretch up tall and thin, dance around a little bit, and even make the occasional puff of smoke, while it's trying to establish a melt pool. But it will stop doing that in a couple of minutes and settle down to a nice small steady flame, so you don't need to trim it. (see my other two comments above this one. lol) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bells4shells Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I have to say, I like how my soy candles burn when I trim the wick vs not. I'm burning by the book with occasional 5-6 hour burns. I'm using HTP 104 and 105 in a 3" diam. x 3.5" tall straight sided glass tumbler. Wax has no color and FO load is 7%. If I don't trim I get ugly mushrooms on the ends and both flames flicker quite a bit (105 much more than 104). I'm not as concerned with that as I am the size of the flame. I much prefer the flame from the 104, but I'm into the 4th burn and it still hasn't cleaned the sides completely. They're around the halfway mark, so I'm going to continue to TRY not to trim the wicks. It's hard not to though. lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) HTP104 4 minutes into burn. I've been testing with the same FO & finding I have stronger HT with CDs. The CDs need trimmed also.Another thing, do any of you have a shelf like that after 5 or 6 burns? I always do unless I use a wick that becomes a torch. Using HTP104s or 105s it usually goes after reaching the bottom half of wax in jar. The Yankee candle I tested acted the same way, but never reached a full MP. Edited October 9, 2012 by ChandlerWicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 [ATTACH=CONFIG]24991[/ATTACH] HTP104 4 minutes into burn. I've been testing with the same FO & finding I have stronger HT with CDs. The CDs need trimmed also.What type of wax do you have in there? Has to be your 4627 no? You gals got me going. Am on 2nd burn with HTP 104 in 415. Did not trim on 2nd burn. So far flame is doing good. 3rd burn won't be until later this afternoon or early eve. No dye. 3" Cylinder about 4" high...Actually its a Madison. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 Yep, 4627. I'm thinking it's the dye. It seems to be affecting the HT & wick. 83s & 93s tunneled so severely I gave up after 5 burn cycles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 (edited) Yep, 4627. I'm thinking it's the dye. It seems to be affecting the HT & wick. 83s & 93s tunneled so severely I gave up after 5 burn cycles.Well, it is a very dark but very pretty green. I'm guessing you used liquid. Had to go back and see what HS is using for wax. You are both using 4627 so that can't be the problem. Are you both using same % of FO? Forgot to look for that.Don't quite get why after 5 burn cycles it isn't touching the hangup where on 415 its quite a bit closer on burn 2 with same wick. You may be on track there with the dye.I'll keep doing the soy testing without trimming and see how this goes. Like b4s mentioned, its going to be hard not to trim. Also have a 1212 going in a 3 5/8" apothecary am going to try not to trim. Thinking that one will fail the test but we'll see. Edited October 9, 2012 by jeanie353 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 [ATTACH=CONFIG]24991[/ATTACH] HTP104 4 minutes into burn. I've been testing with the same FO & finding I have stronger HT with CDs. The CDs need trimmed also.Another thing, do any of you have a shelf like that after 5 or 6 burns? I always do unless I use a wick that becomes a torch. Using HTP104s or 105s it usually goes after reaching the bottom half of wax in jar. The Yankee candle I tested acted the same way, but never reached a full MP.I forgot to mention that it was the National Candle Association that wrote the article I read about how when you relight a candle, it's normal for the flame to stretch up tall and thin, dance around, and maybe make a few puffs of smoke while it's making a melt pool, and then it settles down after a couple of minutes and burns nicely. So, if you're trimming due to the way your flame behaves during the first couple of minutes, you might try waiting to see if it settles down. Mine settles down after a couple of minutes, and it worked that way with zincs in 6006 and also with HTPs in 4627. I saw a video of a Candles By Victoria candle doing the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Well, it is a very dark but very pretty green. I'm guessing you used liquid. Had to go back and see what HS is using for wax. You are both using 4627 so that can't be the problem. Are you both using same % of FO? Forgot to look for that.Don't quite get why after 5 burn cycles it isn't touching the hangup where on 415 its quite a bit closer on burn 2 with same wick. You may be on track there with the dye.I'll keep doing the soy testing without trimming and see how this goes. Like b4s mentioned, its going to be hard not to trim. Also have a 1212 going in a 3 5/8" apothecary am going to try not to trim. Thinking that one will fail the test but we'll see.The FO loads I've been using are 1.3 oz of FO in 14.7 oz of wax, and 1.2 oz of FO in 14.8 oz of wax. On Alan's chart that's 8% and 7%. Yep, that sure is a pretty green color! Is that a Libbey tumbler or the one from Hobby Lobby's candle making aisle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 [ATTACH=CONFIG]24991[/ATTACH] HTP104 4 minutes into burn. I've been testing with the same FO & finding I have stronger HT with CDs. The CDs need trimmed also.Another thing, do any of you have a shelf like that after 5 or 6 burns? I always do unless I use a wick that becomes a torch. Using HTP104s or 105s it usually goes after reaching the bottom half of wax in jar. The Yankee candle I tested acted the same way, but never reached a full MP.This looks so pretty! No soot! I haven't had a thick shelf like that in my jelly jars, Libbey Elemetal jars, or Ball regular mouth pint jars, but I haven't tried 4627 in a straight-sided tumbler like that yet. But, do you get a thin film of wax on the glass even when you get an FMP all the way to the bottom? or does it totally clean the glass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 (edited) There's always a thin ugly mess left on sides of jar. It's an 8oz Madison from Fillmore. The flame never dies down after lighting until I trim. I feel it's the dye after burning other jars without.I tested Htps, Cds & Ecos against each other & the Ecos are creating a much wider MP & not doing the flare up, stretching thing. Starting over again!!!!! For this week anyway.Ecos were recommended for 4627 by Wicks Unlimited when I first began testing. Edited October 11, 2012 by ChandlerWicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I didn't have good luck not trimming in the Madison jar It burned very nice without any trimming of the wick until the 3rd burn. The wick was pretty long but lit it up anyway. Had a flame way above the glass that wouldn't settle down. Trimmed the wick and its burning pretty again. I did measure the piece of wick trimmed off. It was one black mark on the tape measure after the 1/4" mark still with its slight curl so was actually a little longer than that.EL ME, 3" Madison, .8 oz FO of CC Winter Woodland Whisper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Hmmmm, you measure exactly like I do.Yep after watching all these testers burn, it's the dye that's making trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 There's always a thin ugly mess left on sides of jar. It's an 8oz Madison from Fillmore. The flame never dies down after lighting until I trim. I feel it's the dye after burning other jars without.I tested Htps, Cds & Ecos against each other & the Ecos are creating a much wider MP & not doing the flare up, stretching thing. Starting over again!!!!! For this week anyway.Ecos were recommended for 4627 by Wicks Unlimited when I first began testing.That's interesting! I think CS also recommends Ecos for 4627, if I'm not mistaken. I guess I should try Ecos too. I wonder if they'll totally clean the glass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I'll let you know when I finish testing these jars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HorseScentS Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I'll let you know when I finish testing these jars.Thanks, I would love to know, because my pint Ball mason got so hot I could barely hold it in my hand but it still left a waxy film on the jar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladysj Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I'm glad I found this thread. I'm testing a 105 in my 16 ounce mason jar & the flame is too high I don't have a 104 so I'm hoping a 93 will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Exactly, I'm done with that. I would not want to buy a candle with the film. I'll keep testing until I'm able to make a candle without it.Thanks, I would love to know, because my pint Ball mason got so hot I could barely hold it in my hand but it still left a waxy film on the jar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Are you finding you have a film, but jar is super hot?I'm glad I found this thread. I'm testing a 105 in my 16 ounce mason jar & the flame is too high I don't have a 104 so I'm hoping a 93 will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladysj Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 There's always a thin ugly mess left on sides of jar. It's an 8oz Madison from Fillmore. The flame never dies down after lighting until I trim. I feel it's the dye after burning other jars without.I tested Htps, Cds & Ecos against each other & the Ecos are creating a much wider MP & not doing the flare up, stretching thing. Starting over again!!!!! For this week anyway.Ecos were recommended for 4627 by Wicks Unlimited when I first began testing.I have that happen with the CB Advanced & I think the 444 always leaves a film even with a full MP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Yuch I not only have a film, but also a thick ledge with high flames & super hot jars.I have that happen with the CB Advanced & I think the 444 always leaves a film even with a full MP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ladysj Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I did not find the glass hot it's a 26 ounce apothecary jar wicked with a HTP 105 it burns great just a little film on the jar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 I have HTP104s I can send. Are you using 4627? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 Yuch I not only have a film, but also a thick ledge with high flames & super hot jars.Is that with an Eco? If so, maybe wick down and let it catch up after the 3rd-4th burn. The thick ledge should begin to get soft and diminish as you do the burns. I think its because they burn hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChandlerWicks Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 No with the HTPs & CDs. Then when I added too much dye screwed up everything.Is that with an Eco? If so, maybe wick down and let it catch up after the 3rd-4th burn. The thick ledge should begin to get soft and diminish as you do the burns. I think its because they burn hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeanie353 Posted October 11, 2012 Share Posted October 11, 2012 No with the HTPs & CDs. Then when I added too much dye screwed up everything.Oops..sorry. Excuse me while I have more caffeine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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