KY125 and 16oz apothecary...which wick?

[sherrybwc]

Hi!

I'm about to order a case of 16z apothecaries...

As I'm new to this, could someone please suggest a wick?

Thanks!

Sherry

[BarbaraC]

you could try 2 rrd47

[Kaybee23]

I would try a couple of wick sampler packs if it were me. Not all of your FO's will take the same wick. You will need to test each FO with a different wick to see what works. If you do HTP, I would start with double HTP73 or HTP83 for that jar with that wax.

[soynut]

I use that wax and use 2 of 60 cotton and wick up with 2 of 62 cotton. I had used a 51 cotton and wicked up to a 60, but I found that the other worked MUCH MUCH better. Also, don't pour up into the neck of that jar---will give you a ton of trouble. Since I switched to the first thing I mentioned, I haven't had any trouble with that jar anymore.

[Scent Cellar]

Before you purchase a case of apothecary jars I suggest you get a sample of it and test wicking it. It might save you some money in the long run.

[sherrybwc]

Thanks for the replies. I ordered some sampler packs from BCN...they should be here soon.

Now, for the big question...

I read somewhere that, while testing different wicks, you should see an inch per hour increase in the diameter of the burn pool. So, if a 3" container has not melted to the edge in 3 hours, extinguish/allow to harden, and then pull the wick out with a pair of pliers and drop a different wick into the hole left by removing the 1st wick.

This is going to sound stupid, but bear with me...when you pull the 1st wick out of the container, it's coming out through the hardened wax. I ASSUME the wick easily pulls out of the wick tab that has been glued to the bottom of the container and only the WICK is coming out (metal tab remains on the bottom of the container)...right??? Then you could hit it with the heat gun so melted wax fills the space around the NEW wick?

Told ya...

Thanks,

Sherry

[Jordan]

This is going to sound stupid, but bear with me...when you pull the 1st wick out of the container, it's coming out through the hardened wax. I ASSUME the wick easily pulls out of the wick tab that has been glued to the bottom of the container and only the WICK is coming out (metal tab remains on the bottom of the container)...right??? Then you could hit it with the heat gun so melted wax fills the space around the NEW wick?

What works best for us:

Pour a wickless candle, bore holes into the wax with a skewer, put the wicks (w/o tabs) in the holes, test burn, pull them out and start over with a new wick.

I just cut the wicks off above the tab and insert. A good yank with pliers is all it takes to get the wick out of the container.

hth

[sherrybwc]

Thanks, Jordan!

I did as you suggested and it's working great!

Sherry

[Kaybee23]

One thing I would like to add, is that you should give each wick more than one test burn, unless it is coming up very short. Also, if this jar is 3 1/2" dia, I would give it about a 1/2 hour in either direction to acheive it's melt pool. It doesn't have to be exactly 3 1/2 hour burn. Some jars will burn hotter right off the bat and you think the wick is too big, but a lot of times as it gets down into the jar, that can and often does change. I would pour it with no wicks as was suggested, pop in a set that you think will work, give it 2 or 3 burns. If it is too hot or too cool, then pop it out and try another set. Once I get close or think I have the right one, I will melt the candle back down and wick it with secure wicks and repour it. That way I can test it all the way down to the bottom.