Jump to content

If you were buying a 8oz soy candle...what would you personally look for in a burn


Recommended Posts

Well, I want a good steady flame, not one that goes wildly hot and high and then low and cool. Just a good consistent flame. Then I want a good throw. If it is weak, I won't buy another. Then it has to be cool enough on the glass that I can touch it and the glass has to be wide enough at the base that it won't get knocked over.

I don't care about color. I assume that will match the FO. Most candles that I have bought have been very light color. Not sure why, I just seem to be attracted to very light tint even though some I make are darker tint. I can't say what FO I like, I know it when I sniff it so cold throw is important. The name should match the smell. Often I pick up a candle and the smell doesn't make me think of the name and then I sniff again to decide if I like it anyway and just about every time the answer is no.

I don't care about labels other than I want to see the candle as it burns so have some good unblemished glass area for me to look at.

Wet spots don't bother me too much but they are noticeable and they do turn me off.

And to the tune of Mary Poppins.... "these are a few of my favorite things..."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The most important thing to me is scent throw- it HAS to throw like crazy! also no huge meteror sized mushrooms or soot spitting off the wick AND does not burn down the middle like a very popular huge brand (hmmm hmmm)- to where you have a container caked with wax on the sides and the wick drowns out before the candle can even finish

I make soy and have never tried making paraffin BUT I do like burning paraffin candles....if they are made correctly!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Safety first, ALWAYS!

It doesn't mater if the candle has a great hot throw if the container becomes so hot that it damages surfaces or causes a fire. What is most important about a candle is the safety aspect, since it has an open flame. I want to see a candle whose container does not become to hot to handle, even if powerburned, a great hot throw, and a clean container with no hangup (residue is acceptable). I don't care how great the throw is... if the container becomes too hot, that great-throwing candle is unsafe and junk in my eyes.

Container shape, again, is safety first. I would never pour a candle in a martini glass or long-stemmed wine glass, or ANY container which is unstable and easily tipped over (many candles are recalled each year for this problem). Doesn't matter how "cute" it is - it won't look so cute after it tips over and lights ones house on fire.

I want to see new glassware, never reused or repurposed containers. A container should N E V E R be flammable. The glassware should be manufactured to ASTM standards for candle glass, minimum.

The wick should burn true with little or no mushrooming, no smoking, and no sooting of the container or wax. The flame height should not be over 2" - I prefer less, even on large candles.

Unless the candle's diameter is 4" or more, I want to see a single wick. The only exception would be for long, narrow containers which are like wicking several smaller candles in a line.

I do not give burn time estimates. They are too dependent on the way the candle is burned and the environmental condtions under which the candle is burned. I engineer my own candles to have a long burn time, but I simply will not put a time on customer product information, for the reasons stated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

First of all Stella - you are a wealth of information. I am just curious how many years you have been making candles.

And have a question on your comment.....single wick unless diameter is >= 4". I have been experimenting with 444, 464, C3 and CBA. Do you have any experience with these when it comes to containers 3"-4" in Dia. If so, can you please tell me which wicks/sizes worked best for you in getting FMP, Throw, etc. I think I read somewhere that you preferred CDNs. Thanks for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

single wick unless diameter is >= 4". I have been experimenting with 444, 464, C3 and CBA. Do you have any experience with these when it comes to containers 3"-4" in Dia. If so, can you please tell me which wicks/sizes worked best for you in getting FMP, Throw, etc. I think I read somewhere that you preferred CDNs. Thanks for your help.

Hi Burntheflame.

We pretty much do mainly 4" apothecary jars and use CDN's. For most scents a CDN 22 / 24 do the job. Single wicked (I never double wick as I personally dont like it) We do also do some smaller diameter containers as well still using CDN's. We find that they work quite well for the most part. For pillars we use a locally sourced wick as we have found that to be better for the purpose.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am just curious how many years you have been making candles.
October 2005
Do you have any experience with these when it comes to containers 3"-4" in Dia.
Using NatureWax C3 (1 oz. FO PP; 1 T. USA PP), I routinely wick 3" containers with CDN 14. The 4" container I wick uses a CDN 22. Something in those neighborhoods should work for you. You'll have to test to see... Edited by Stella1952
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you Stella and lmc.

Does total burn time vary differ significantly between using 1 wick (like CDN 14) vs using 2 or 3 smaller wicks. Not sure if anyone has studied that variance.

I have started testing the results I get with various sizes but 1 wick on a 4" diameter container and one about 3.25".

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I was buying for the first time, it would be cold throw. When I got it home it would be hot throw and flame, no soot, then how long it last, 50-60 hrs for that size. Oh and I have always hated a hot jar, would rather see wax on the side than too hot to touch.

Don't like more than 1 wick unless it's a 6" dia. pillar.

Edited by Sharon in KY
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I felt like it lessened the burn time by using 2 wicks in the 16oz apoth. But i didnt test them long enough nor write down exact burn hrs because i ended up dropping the bigger jars and focusing on the 8oz jj. But Im pretty sure it was less burn time with 2 wicks................umm, I think..............................lol.........but I never got those jars wicked perfectly so not sure if my tests r even relevant to your question...........

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...