Melt pool-hot throw dilemma

[lmc]

Would like your opinion...I am working with CBA in 10oz rectangle and testing the HTP104 and the HTP105. Here's my dilemma...the 104 gives a very slow burn with mp 1/4" deep in about 2 hours, low flame, low ht...whereas the 105 gives steadly flame and burn with same melt pool in about an hour BUT much better HT!! Which is more desirable...very low flame and slow burning or steady flame with great ht but fast burning? same jar, same fo amount, same cure time

[rjdaines]

I will vote for trying a different of wick (CD maybe). A full melt pool in a hour is too fast (1 hour per inch diameter). What diameter is this container? Also rectangular containers can be a wicking challenge, round seem to be easier.

[lmc]

I use canning jars for my 16 oz containers, but rectangular for my 10 oz (contemporary jars for bed/bath). The diameter is 3"...the reason I chose HTP is because its self wicking since most people don't really remember to trim the small bed/bath containers...the ECO wicks drowned out and are to unpredictable in this jar...maybe I should use the LX like I do in canning jars-really wanted self wicking tho

[Stella1952]

self wicking

I think you mean self-trimming. CD wicks are self-trimming.

For the 3" try a CD 14 or 16. HTH

[lmc]

lol...yes self trimming...ok thanks I will give those a try

[Snuff Gear]

So, just what is considered a good melt pool?

Container? Side to side melt at about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep?

Pillar? Side to side but not breaking through any side?

Thanks

Tom

[rjdaines]

Yes, just add the timing part ~ 1 inch melt pool per hour to keep it all on the cooler side of hot.

So, just what is considered a good melt pool?

Container? Side to side melt at about 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep?

Pillar? Side to side but not breaking through any side?

Thanks

Tom

[Snuff Gear]

Thanks. Forgot the timing part. With a pillar, as it melts down, how do you deal with the sides that haven't melted?

[rjdaines]

Thanks. Forgot the timing part. With a pillar, as it melts down, how do you deal with the sides that haven't melted?

With a paraffin pillar candle (other waxes behave differently), if well wicked, the top will curve slightly inward and the wax will melt and add to the melt pool. Gently "hugging" (occasional pushing with your hand) will help the candle keep it's shape. It will burn this way until the wick flops over and extinguishes and you should be left with a disk of wax. I don't do soy pillars and have only made a few palm. Personally, I would not bother with soy pillars.

[Snuff Gear]

Thanks. They would be paraffin.

[rjdaines]

Thanks. They would be paraffin.

Try IGI 4625 wax for pillars, LX wicks work well for my with it. I tried making my own pillar wax from a straight paraffin but why reinvent the wheel if there is already one available. Pay attention to the recommended fragrance oil load it can handle, adding more will just make a candle sweat it out.

[EricofAZ]

4625 is good for pillars. I like it. As for the containers, I read somewhere about a 1/4 inch melt pool but decided that is too much. Maybe at the wick but not that deep at the rim. The shape and depth of the jar is important because further down, more heat gets held in. If you have a 1/2 inch at the top at the rim (and presumably an inch in the center), expect the bottom to be way to hot when it burns down that far. You may find it necessary to wick for the final burn and then let the chips fall where they may with the initial burn. As long as any hang on the side catches up, you shouldn't have any complaints about it.