Molds and putty

[Gbhunter]

Is there an alternative to putting the gray putty over the top of the mold.. Everytime I do it I get a leak someplace and then have to cool the thing with a heat gun. Is there a way I can some how add something to the mold.. I have seen screws in molds but will that work on a mold that was not meant to have one?

[Scented]

How do you mean shouldn't have one? You should be able to use screws in the metal and the aluminum.

This is a tricky one because the methods may not work for you but did work once upon a time for me.

I gave up on the magnets because I couldn't make them stick.

I have used screws before, but then found myself screwing into the wick too often and still getting leaks ...

BUT ... I've used a pin to prick through the wick, tied it off at the other end, covered it just in putty and had your problem. Then covered it in masking tape, sealing it off as much as I could and covering it in putty and about 60-70 % of the time that worked, but inevitably ...

So I tried the metal tape too and had worse luck with that.

I even tried the plumbers putty and that didn't stick so well either. Seemed to just be much softer than the putty we use. I imagine they're similar in some way/aspect, but I just found the plumbers putty to be softer.

I still stick with using wick pins with putty around the base. If it leaks, I through what little putty I used away.

You could try setting the base of your mold on an ice pack, but I think you're going to find that it will affect your surface.

You could try pouring cooler or a water bath even if you want.

[debratant]

I started using some wick stick ums that I didn't like for wicking on my molds.

If I use a wick pin...I slide the wick stick um over the pin...all the way down to the base then press really hard. Then I use the metal tape to get a good seal around the pin. I use my pin on the outside of the mold btw.

If I'm wicking the mold...I pull the wick out of the hole about an inch or so...place the stick um on top of the hole/wick..then cover with metal tape. It would be better to have a visual of this. I'll try to get a pic and post them later.

I don't really get leaks now this way. I hate using the screws. Pain in the butt lol.

Edited June 28, 2010 by debratant
added something

[Candybee]

I use a combo of mold sealer and electrical tape.

I take enough mold sealer to work it into a little ball about 1/2 to 3/4 " thick. I roll it in my hand to warm it up and make it plyable. Then I apply it to the bottom of the mold to cover the wick hole and press hard. I then push hard around the entire edge of the mold sealer in a circle to finish the seal. Then I take some electrical tape and tape the entire bottom of the mold pressing hard to make the seal tight.

So far no leaks and no problems.

There are also rubber mold sealers that look something like tiny Kiss chocolates. You fit them into the wick hole at the bottom of the mold on the outside and you press them in to seal it. Those work too but I didn't like the way they left an indent in the bottom of the candle. They work in a similar process as the screws except the rubber is what seals the mold.

Edited June 28, 2010 by Candybee

[cgoff]

Is there an alternative to putting the gray putty over the top of the mold.. Everytime I do it I get a leak someplace and then have to cool the thing with a heat gun. Is there a way I can some how add something to the mold.. I have seen screws in molds but will that work on a mold that was not meant to have one?

I always use Duct Seal to seal the bottoms of my molds, it's WAY stickier than mold sealer, it never dries out, and it's amazingly cheap, like 2 dollars a pound at Home Depot or Lowes.

Chris

[cactusladycandles]

I use a glue gun to cover all of the wick sticking out. Then this is the trick I found. I use the lids from the 28 oz peanut butter jar. I fill the lids with Plumbers Putty and push it down and smooth it out. I fill the lids not quite to the top. Then I put the mold in the lid, turn it to set it in the putty and then level the mold so it is straight when i pour the wax in. I keep the filled lids in ziplock storage bags so I have then handy when I need them. I've never had a leak. .

[cactusladycandles]

I forgot to mention that after I put the wick in the mold, I put either a black rubber or pink silicone plug in the hole before I use the hot glue.

[Gbhunter]

It nice to see im noth the only one with this issue. I will see what contraption I come up with.

[grama]

What you really have to be sure of is that your wick pins are, guess you would call it concave to fit the "top" of your mold. I got some that were straight on the bottom and they don't work. I use wick pins on the outside also. I got this light gray sealer stuff, don't remember what it was called, years ago. Probably from either GenWax or Candlewic. It comes in narrow strips maybe 1/2" or little less and rolled up with a strip of paper between each. Put some around bottom of wick pin and press hard and it will last for ages with no leaks. Hope I can find more when I give out but think that will be a long time off it last so good.

[Candybee]

Its called mold sealer.

[grama]

Yes, but there are different kinds, tried the white and did not like it at all. This is a light gray and works much better and also doesn't leave the little bit of residue on the candle that sometimes was left using the white.

[Georgia]

I use StickyTac (meant to hold posters on walls) around the base of my wick pins - pins on the outside. I spent a whole $1.99 on the pack and still have half of it in the package. 5 years and I have never had a pillar leak.

[comfortscents]

I bought the plugs by the 100's but I pour a lot of tall pillars in aluminum molds...so I usually pre wick and use a screw plus plumber's putty which never leak and the putty comes right off...I think that even the plumbers putty alone works better than the mold sealant and I probably use less than one 8oz tub a year