starburst/ CSN 11

[lrbd]

I used 1 1/2 tsp of stearic

1 oz of heater countryside ( MMMMM)

3 drops of CS liquid dye Kiwi green

poured at 195

cooled under a plastic cooler insert

wick 1/2 inch

will post photos at the end of the test but I can tell you that 1 hour in the scent was non existent as it was with the CSN 7

[lrbd]

I am not sure what happened to the scent on this CSN 11 . The heather countryside smells fabulous in my 415. This was a 6 hour burn and I am showing photos of every hour . Input is much appreciated Thanks Laura

her is a 40 second video of the 6 hours as well

http://www.box.net/shared/ci6t3n5gth

[topofmurrayhill]

Might as well keep burning it I guess.

I also got a larger flame at the beginning with CSN 12. When you first light them, the wicks seem to trim down slower in starburst than in feather.

It's nice that you can actually tell how much scent throw you're getting. I've been using the same fragrance in these palm pillars for weeks, plus I'm burning and photographing them in my office. I totally have candle nose.

[lrbd]

I thought I may have candle nose as well , but my soy containers are burning around the house and I can smell those . I moved the pillar to a small bathroom and I could smell it but not in a bedroom.

[lrbd]

3 hours into the second burn and the flame is very small.

[Meridith]

Our 11 tester ended up leaving too much of a shell so I don't think I'll try the 9. It initially burned well the first few burns which were at least 5 hr burns. Our 11 began to burn with a small flame too and struggled the rest of the way down. If burning to leave a shell, the 11 left too much wax.

I'm with you so far Lrbd, and its the CSN 12 that has given the best burn and throw. But, the problems that we have encountered were with the 12's were only with the ones we just left to burn on their own with very little fussing with them. Some just resulted in a bit of an uneven burn and some even had some blowouts from the flame being too close. But if we really babysit, the burn is great and leaves a nice shell. I happy with the throw too. I'm so fighting have to fuss with them. lol

[lrbd]

I am thinking the CSN 12 are the best too. I don't think you can burn for a shell unless you watch it and turn it . The curl of the wick , a draft or whatever is going to bring the burn off centered . so I think that if you want the shell you have to work for it .

Laura

Edited April 10, 2010 by lrbd

[lrbd]

ok so I had to run out and get my dog from the groomer . no time for photos but this is one after the 2nd 6 hour burn.

Edited April 10, 2010 by lrbd

[lrbd]

If burning to leave a shell, the 11 left too much wax.

/QUOTE] so far I am in full agreement with you meridith

[lrbd]

I don't know

3rd 6 hour test

[topofmurrayhill]

I think starburst needs bigger wicks than feather. I'm testing CSN 12 in starburst right now and it seems like it might be good, but I'm thinking of comparing it to a few larger sizes as well.

In feather palm, CSN 9 was enough to get the shell melting down. That's what got me thinking about CSN 7 to tunnel down the center. I can now see how that was never going to fly in starburst. Maybe I'll try it in feather palm.

Thanks Laura and Meredith for covering the bases.

[lrbd]

I do not know what the stearic acid does other than help me with mold release. If it makes the wax harder could that be why the 11 isn't working for me ? I only use 1 1/2 tsp. I should try it without it but I had such trouble with release prior. Top.... you don't use anything at all to help with release? Meredith do you ?

[lrbd]

Meredith .... do you use any additives ?

[Meridith]

I do use stearic. I can't recall off the top of my if our pillar with the 11 was the starburst or feather but the shell it left was very thick. I want to say it was the starburst. I'll have to look to see the the wax, wick, FO and color combo it was. It burned pretty good about the first half of the candle but then the wick regally began to struggle the second half and did not burn out as it usually does (you know how palm tends to burn down then out?) We had a pretty big hang over that never did melt down and the final shell was too much. I need to get some tortoise shell and pour a tester with that wax and the 11. I'll let you know what wax it was that we used.

[lrbd]

I poured an 11, 12 and 14 without stearic this morning. I am scared they won't come out of the mold. They are cooling now

[Meridith]

It was starburst we used. I thought it was but started to second guess myself. We also use UV inhibitor in our candles.

I think they will come out of the mold for you. There was a time we did not use stearic and we've never, ever had a candle stick in the mold.

[lrbd]

we've never, ever had a candle stick in the mold.

I always do.... wonder why?

[topofmurrayhill]

It's hard to say how much difference the stearic makes without comparing. That amount of stearic added to any other wax would make some noticeable difference in the burn, though probably a small one. But usually you're adding stearic to a wax that doesn't have any and in this case the wax already has a lot, so maybe it doesn't make much difference. In principle though I would never use an additive automatically without comparing to see what exactly it does.

As far as mold release goes, there's stuck and then there's stuck. If you used any of the palms that drop out into your hand while the wax is still liquid in the middle, you might have gotten spoiled. For me, demolding starburst has been exactly like a lot of the paraffin pillars I pour. It might be best to wait for the candle to cool to room temp, which is going to be no less than 8 hours. Take the tape off, jiggle the wick a little to loosen it, then maybe give the edge of the mold a tap against something that won't damage it, like a piece of cardboard. Once the candle moves, you should be able to jog the mold up and down in the air a little to get the candle to slide out. Avoid pulling or you may scratch it.

My CSN 12 pillar came damned near blowing out 2 hours into a 4 hour burn. So, bigger or smaller? I'm thinking bigger. I'd like to get the shell-consuming burn squared away before playing further with the "wicking for a shell" concept. Truthfully, I don't put a lot of stock in that idea.

Without exception, my feather pillars only wanted to blow out in the first inch or 1 1/2 inch of the candle. Once the flame began to flicker and the shell started melting down, you could burn them for a long time without worries. Hopefully wicking starburst is the same principle. The way I'm looking at it is to find a wick that can get over that initial hump, then you get a low-maintenance candle that burns down attractively. If you mess with feeble burns to tunnel down the middle, I think maybe the candle just turns into a lantern-crafting project that you have to keep an eagle eye on.

Edited April 11, 2010 by topofmurrayhill

[lrbd]

I would never use an additive automatically without comparing to see what exactly it does.

That's because you're the candle king !

but seriously I did have trouble with mold release until I used the stearic. Today however I was able to get three out with a little effort .

So tomorrow I am testing a 11 12 14 without stearic

I'd like to get the shell-consuming burn squared away before playing further with the "wicking for a shell" concept. Truthfully, I don't put a lot of stock in that idea./QUOTE]

me either anymore. It is very pretty and we know it can be done but I believe it can not be done without effort. I love that look though I really do . it's neat.. as in tidy. I am the weirdo that has to have the pillows just so and the blinds all even . I know sick.

[topofmurrayhill]

So tomorrow I am testing a 11 12 14 without stearic

Sounds great. That's kinda what I need to do, but until more of the FO arrives I can only remelt the 4" and pour a 3". I'm gonna make it a 14 and see how it goes.